Please Read this. Diesel_Dan works for DPP.....Diesel Dan Does not
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 2,534
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Please Read this. Diesel_Dan works for DPP.....Diesel Dan Does not
It has been brought to my attention that there is another Diesel Dan on this site. He has been receiving e-mails from members wanting FASS questions answered. To set the record straight, My name is:
Diesel_Dan
Please Note the Under Score.
Please direct all questions to me at this name via a post, in a thread on the forum. I search these forums daily. DO NOT PM me (OR Diesel Dan) questions about FASS/HPFP. I would like to carry out all discussion on the forums in public. This is to help anyone else with similar questions.
Diesel_Dan
Please Note the Under Score.
Please direct all questions to me at this name via a post, in a thread on the forum. I search these forums daily. DO NOT PM me (OR Diesel Dan) questions about FASS/HPFP. I would like to carry out all discussion on the forums in public. This is to help anyone else with similar questions.
#3
will be buying/installing a fass system in the next few days. couple of ??'s
1- any hints, clues, suggestions, for getting on top of tank to remove/install lines w/o removing bed?
2- what is the FASS II system compared to a plain ol' FASS?
thanks _Dan
1- any hints, clues, suggestions, for getting on top of tank to remove/install lines w/o removing bed?
2- what is the FASS II system compared to a plain ol' FASS?
thanks _Dan
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 2,534
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For the FASS, there is ports drilled in the base to run engine coolant through. If you are in extreme cold for extended periods, you may want to consider a preheater. BUT i only see this an issue for some border states, Canada and AK. If you run additives to keep the fuel from gelling, you will be fine. Brad, and several others have ran the FASS down to -15 with no issue. Mine was fine at 0 with no additives. You can run your fuel through the stock filter head.....but its added restriction to the system.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 2,534
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just get your hand up there....you do have some room......One hint that i heard from someone the other day that was pretty cool. This is about the tank fitting on top of the tank. Get a small wire or string. Wrap around the 2 tabs you have to push down to pull the line off the tank using a slip knot. This will hold the tabs down and just pull the line off. I have not tried it but the gent that did said it worked great.
To get the blue clip off, you need to bend the 2 tabs (The ones you just pushed to get the line off) back over backwards. Once you get them pulled back, pull the clip off the line.
Use thread sealant on all pipe fittings!
Heat gun, WD-40 or axle grease helps get the lines on the push lock fittings. No need to use hose clamps....they will hold up to 300 PSI.
Get some zip ties to clean up install.
Question #2:
The FASS is just that. The “Fuel Air Separation System”. This is the unit with 2 filters.
The HPFP (Or as people keep calling it, FASS II or Baby FASS), is just the pump by its self.
Both kits replace the stock lift pump.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 2,534
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
HAHA.....i didnt know the name was copy righted already......o well! Blame Crobtx....he is the one that gave me the name at a DTR meet.........
#10
Registered User
For the FASS, there is ports drilled in the base to run engine coolant through. If you are in extreme cold for extended periods, you may want to consider a preheater. BUT i only see this an issue for some border states, Canada and AK. If you run additives to keep the fuel from gelling, you will be fine. Brad, and several others have ran the FASS down to -15 with no issue. Mine was fine at 0 with no additives. You can run your fuel through the stock filter head.....but its added restriction to the system.
Also to snowrodeo, not knowing how big or small you are, but I was able to fit in between the driveshaft and exhaust (sitting) to reach the top of the tank. It was a tight fit, but it made access to the tank connections easy....just make sure the truck is not going to move at all.
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: New Madison, Ohio
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Line removal
I used a similar approach as described by Diesel_Dan to take mine off two weeks ago. I used a right-angle needle nose pliers to squeeze the blue tabs and held the pliers shut with wire. Then I used a large flat head screwdriver on the end of the line next to the clip and had to pound on it with my hand. I was nervous about breaking something but the line did evenutally pop off. Mine is a 99 and the metal line going into the tank is very rusty on the outside so it took some force to get it off. I was wedged in between the muffler and drive shaft also and I did not fit very well but it worked. This is the worst part. Once the line comes off, the rest is a piece of cake