Piers stoopid pump
#1
Piers stoopid pump
I saw on another site where people were talking about the 160HP P-pump. They said that this pump is the best pump to start with with doing mods to flow serious fuel. They also said that the 160 pump is what Piers starts with to make there stoopid pump. Could someone explain why and what all is involved in the process. Why is the 160 pump better to start with than the other P-pumps available??
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
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If you want the real answer, I would send that question right to Piers. Let us know what you find out, I always thought the better P pumps were the 96-98's. Bigger Cam and delivery valves?
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the best i can tell is that the 160 pump uses a bigger cam and smaller barrels and plungers. my guess is a 160 cam and a set of 13mm barrels from a 8.3 motor. but this is just a guess on my part. i need some more pumps to pull apart and take a look at. i keep hoping to find a 8.3 motor in the scrap yard to snag a pump off it.
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There is much more to a Stoopid pump then just throwing a set of 13mm's in it, they use a 160 or 175 pump because the stock 180's and 215's are worth money to the little pump guys. On the 160's and 175's they take everything out of the pump and throw it away and install the 13mm's, quick fill cam, custom governer, ect, ect.
Keep this in mind, a racepump by PDR drives nice when driven nice, there responsive but don't smoke bad as long as you don't cood the throttle, I drove 6500 miles while on vacation in Sept-Oct and with 370's I get 20 MPG@2K, make 775hp and cover the road in smoke at 80 psi, you decide what you want.
Jim
Keep this in mind, a racepump by PDR drives nice when driven nice, there responsive but don't smoke bad as long as you don't cood the throttle, I drove 6500 miles while on vacation in Sept-Oct and with 370's I get 20 MPG@2K, make 775hp and cover the road in smoke at 80 psi, you decide what you want.
Jim
#6
So its not thats its a better platform to build from its just the demand is not as high for the 160 pump so that is more economical for them to use. Makes sense.
Hey Jim, have you towed anything with your 40/BB twins. Just curious if the BB is tow friendly especially with your auto.
Hey Jim, have you towed anything with your 40/BB twins. Just curious if the BB is tow friendly especially with your auto.
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#8
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Hey Jim, have you towed anything with your 40/BB twins. Just curious if the BB is tow friendly especially with your auto.
I don't tow but i'd like to so I could see how it acts, I would drop the timing to 18, with timing at 20 boost builds right off the bat at 700 degrees and by 800 it's at 8-10 lbs going from a dead stop, 25 degrees timing is about 200 RPM later but rocks hard up top! The deal is there is no time issue between the two turbo's, the B/B is right there all the time, I expected to feel a little late hit by it but that didn't happen. This is by no means a towing set of Twins but it is sure a street set that means business, it does need to be tested to say 90-100 psi so we can see were or if it starts going south. I haven't tested drive pressures yet but I'll get that done when I get back home.
Jim
I don't tow but i'd like to so I could see how it acts, I would drop the timing to 18, with timing at 20 boost builds right off the bat at 700 degrees and by 800 it's at 8-10 lbs going from a dead stop, 25 degrees timing is about 200 RPM later but rocks hard up top! The deal is there is no time issue between the two turbo's, the B/B is right there all the time, I expected to feel a little late hit by it but that didn't happen. This is by no means a towing set of Twins but it is sure a street set that means business, it does need to be tested to say 90-100 psi so we can see were or if it starts going south. I haven't tested drive pressures yet but I'll get that done when I get back home.
Jim
#9
Do you have a valet switch?? Any guesses on how it would act with the valet on and towing say 7,000 lbs?
Maybe this would be a new thread but I am trying to get some info on diffrent twin configurations. Specifically a 40/4B and a B1/BB?? I guess the 40/4B would be cheaper but from what I hear the B1/BB is much more durable. Could someone compare the size and airflow of each?? Is the BB bigger than the 4B? I hear the 40 and B1 are close in size but the B1 will flow more air. Will one be more laggy on the street with an auto???
Thanks!
Maybe this would be a new thread but I am trying to get some info on diffrent twin configurations. Specifically a 40/4B and a B1/BB?? I guess the 40/4B would be cheaper but from what I hear the B1/BB is much more durable. Could someone compare the size and airflow of each?? Is the BB bigger than the 4B? I hear the 40 and B1 are close in size but the B1 will flow more air. Will one be more laggy on the street with an auto???
Thanks!
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The B-1 has yet to out flow a 40.....it has been tested even in a twin configuration, there is nothing wrong with a B-1 and yes it is tougher than a 40 but no one has hurt a 40 with Twins......well lets say a PDR 40, one setup has been to 756 and mine to 775. Yes the B-1 will be more laggy, yes the 40 will respond great if it's all setup correctly, stock turbo's don't apply here.
The 4B is really close to the B/B in size and flow, but I don't know the price difference, I do know that I would never run a non-modified turbo after driving this setup. Yes I have a valet switch on mine, it makes 565hp in valet at 65 psi and is smoke free at that power.
Jim
The 4B is really close to the B/B in size and flow, but I don't know the price difference, I do know that I would never run a non-modified turbo after driving this setup. Yes I have a valet switch on mine, it makes 565hp in valet at 65 psi and is smoke free at that power.
Jim
#11
Thanks for the info Jim.Sounds like both setups would be real close. I didnt realize the 40 would outlow a B1. Thats good to know. I am actually trying to decide which single to go with (40 or B1) and then add a bigger charger for twins later on when the budget allows. Meanwhile I will keep researching. Congrats on our setup. I can only imagine.
#13
Registered User
I think what Jim is saying is the PDR 40 spools and flows cfm's faster than the B1 as a single or on twins. In either application the 40 comes on faster and hits harder than the B1. The 40 runs cleaner at bottom and mid. The B1 pulls slightly harder up top though.
#14
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Ahh never mind me....Im just being, well........ me!
They are both great turbos. I loved my Piers 40. Till I outgrew it.
And using the B-1 we cant seem to break it. Trying everything possible....it wont die. Hundreds of dyno runs with the EDM testing. Some of those development injectors were just plain rude too
Don~
They are both great turbos. I loved my Piers 40. Till I outgrew it.
And using the B-1 we cant seem to break it. Trying everything possible....it wont die. Hundreds of dyno runs with the EDM testing. Some of those development injectors were just plain rude too
Don~
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Thanks Mark that is the way I should have said it.
I personally don't see were the B-1 can out do a PDR 40 in a Twin application(Had this talk with Ken also) as it's never past it's mid range (it's just not making much boost) What I do know, or should I say that we know, is what the B/B is putting out for boost in my application as well as it's air temps and what it's seeing of both at the intake hat and an aftermarket intercooler is still in the works.
Jim
I personally don't see were the B-1 can out do a PDR 40 in a Twin application(Had this talk with Ken also) as it's never past it's mid range (it's just not making much boost) What I do know, or should I say that we know, is what the B/B is putting out for boost in my application as well as it's air temps and what it's seeing of both at the intake hat and an aftermarket intercooler is still in the works.
Jim