I have pushed it up to 30 so far. My fuel to oil leak is getting worse. I just got some new injector orings today so if work is slow friday, I'll get my fuel leak fixed, change my oil again, and then do some more testing above and beyond 40 psi if I can. By cheap ebay boost controller is not here yet. It was only 13 bucks and after pricing out brass fittings at Home Depot, I decided it was a better route.

Does anyone know where I can find springs? Harbor freight used to carry big assorted boxes but I can't find them anymore. Like a 3/16" spring maybe 1.25" long. This ebay controller will not have a stout enough spring for diesel boost range.

I ran this turbo up to 30 psi the other night with a pair of vice grips and Adrenaline PL 0, just Jammer 5's for fueling. I need the weekend so I can afford down time when one of these silicone boots decides to let loose.

I am still running a 2' straight pipe as well. I don't want to test far from home in case I need to limp back home, but a 2' straight pipe sets off car alarms on my whole block.

On top of all this, I need to swap out the bottom two turbo mount studs as they do no protrude enough for more than 3/4 of a bite in the nuts. I was in a hurry when I first hooked everything up and I did not know if this ebay turbo was still good. So I left stock components in place to facilitate easier and quicker switch back to stock turbo.

The real problem is that I am on the last half of the last semester of my senior year for college so skipping class is really bad, and missing a career altering job interview is really really bad.

But, it looks like this weekend is free so hopefully I can get the fuel leak in the head fixed and play some more with tuning this turbo.

 

Well, I played some more, even though my fuel in oil problem is not yet fixed. I put some vice grips on the silicone line and turned the Adrenaline up to 4.

This turbo is AWESOME! It will spin the tires in 3rd gear on dry roads. Boost has hit 34 psi max. I can feel a little flutter and surge if I stay in it up a hill in fourth, and gauge dances between 32 and 34 psi. I think that drive pressure is blowing the wastegate open. I'm going to add a couple of washers to the wastegate actuator to give it a little more preload on the spring and see if I can get more boost.

Big seat of the pants difference in power, at least 40HP no doubt. Still doesn't clean up all of the smoke. I really need to fix my oil problem before I push it too hard. I checked my dipstick and oil is 1/2 quart high in just 40 miles. It smells faintly like diesel too!

 

Blue,

I saw this and thought of you. The poster calls the turbo an HX-40 but it is clearly an HE-341 from an 04-04 truck!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UTldU...eature=related

 

Yeah, I saw that too. I thought maybe they just knew something that I didnt' know

 

Oh darn the video has been removed

 

I didn't see it either, I just got back from a trip with no internet access. I will say this, I finally have this turbo all tuned in how I like it. It hits 40 psi max, power is definitely up about 30-50 HP and drive pressure is lower .... 55-60 psi when I set the gate for 40 psi max. If I hold the waste gate closed longer, 45 psi boost, egt's start to sky rocket and drive pressure goes north of 70 psi.

Drive pressure is a funny thing to watch and monitor. Drive pressure is much lower at a given boost level with low rpms. If same boost level is maintained when RPMs go up, drive pressure goes up.

On this turbo, the little 9cm housing seems to be happy around 60 psi or less drive pressure. More than that, egt's soar. But on the flip side, high boost at lower rpm seems to have higher egts than same boost at higher rpm and higher drive pressure.

Drive pressure seems to be linked to egt but effects it much more when over 60 psi.

Boost seems to cool off egt, but rpm seems to help more than adding boost until you reach the threshold where increased rpm=drive pressure above 60#.

A guy could spend hours just trying to make an equation or map out the relationship between: Drive Pressure, Boost, RPM, and EGT. I wish I owned a dyno or had inexpensive access to one.

 

So is it enough to keep those jammers cool with the adrenaline cranked?

 

It is definitely better, but not enough to keep cool. Jammers and Adrenaline is over 500 HP worth of fuel, a 62/12 would not keep it cool either. I think it is better than a hybrid HX35/40 with a 12 cm housing. I've never had one to compare, but just from reading, a hybrid lacks cooling ability above 420 HP. I think this turbo is stronger than a Hybrid, which is great for a stick shifter like me that barks the turbo once a day.

 

I can't believe your pyro is in safe territory running a small turbo and big sticks. 50 psi from a stock turbo is crazy and if you keep pushing your drive pressure to much higher you will need a head gasket. Not too many aftermarket turbo push that kinda of pressure. I've run stage 5 jammers, they get over 1300 deg's with my 40/3b twins. A 9cm stock turbo is krispy.

 

Wise words from Mike Holmen, imo. BB24 would be wise to heed them.

40-45psi from a 3rd gen turbo on a 2nd gen is a recipe for expensive engine repair. It's terribly overboosting from that incredibly undersized turbine side.

jmo

 

Just wanted to update this thread and bring it back to life for those considering the Turbo Swap...

499.2 HP, 947 ftlb torque. With Adr 2000 PL 7, Jammer 5's, and HE351 at 42 lbs boost.

 

I know of an HY35 that lived @ 57psi and the stock headgasket is still intact with a proper retorque @ 200K+ miles.

 

I loaded up my truck over the holiday and pulled a grade WOT set on kill. I pushed this turbo up to 46 psi. I sure sings when you go north of 40 psi!

 

did you do an after market wastegate or did you keep with the one that was on it if so how do you make it make over 26 psi of boost?

 

I put a few washers under the waste gate head to space it forward from the turbo compressor body and provide more preload on the wastegate. You can only space it forward two skinny washers or one thick washer till you run out of threads to securely attach the wastegate actuator head-bulb. I then bought a cheap ball and spring brass tee wastegate controller off ebay and plumbed it inline between the barb on the turbo and wastegate actuator head. I had to modify the ebay controller to allow higher boost and simply added an oring between the ball and sealing surface.

After playing around, it would take a lot of fuel to push this turbo into explosion prone boost levels and one could probably pinch the wastegate line and let drive pressure alone open the gate.