Pics of Fuel system upgrade
#1
Pics of Fuel system upgrade
As some of you may know, I recently installed a Scotty Systems fuel line kit on my truck. I also have a low fuel presure light I got from BD Power. Light set to come on when fuel pressure drops below 5 psi. When I first got the light installed, it was on all the time (original LP, 50,000 miles). Checked fuel pressure - it was 2-4 psi . Time for a new lift pump. My truck was and is still under warranty, so Dodge put a new LP on. They installed the upgraded kit where the new LP goes in the tank. The old one was on the side of the engine, and the theory goes that the engine heat and vibration shorten the LPs life. So, new one is relocated, and installed in the tank where it is kept cooler, and no longer gets vibrated by the "paint shaker" Cummins. My low fuel pressure warning light would only come on now when I got into the throttle and climbed above 2000 RPM, and would go out as soon as I let off. It would also "flicker" when towing on steep grades where more power was needed when towing my RV trailer (about 15,500# GCW).
I started doing some research into a cure. I'm still new in the diesel world, and Boy did I learn something!!
1) I learned that when Dodge installs the LP relocation kit, they substitute a "dummy" aluminium block where the old LP used to live on the side of the engine block. Seems like an OK solution, until you learn more - read on. Here's a pics of the block I am talking about.
2) I learned that these "banjo bolts" they use to plumb the fuel system are amazingly (to me anyway) restrictive. Here is a picture of the magnifying glass shaped portion of the banjo bolt, with the tiny hole that all the fuel must flow through to feed the engine visible. It is next to the line used in the scotty kit. Can you imagine, towing all that weight (15,500# for me truck and trailer conbined) and every drop of fuel used has to flow through that hole that looks to be what, 3/16"?
3) Next picture is of the fittings/plumbing used in the scotty kit.
4) Here's a picture of the banjo bolt assembled, and one of the banjo bolt itself next to the scotty fitting.
There are a total of at least 5 of these banjo bolt connections on a stock Cummins. One on the inlet side of the LP, one on the exit side of the LP, one on the inlet side of the fuel filter, one on the exit, and one on the inlet side of the injection pump.
With this new system installed, my low fuel pressure light comes on only when I hit the key to the ON position. As soon as the engine fires, light goes out. It also doesn't come on when I get in the throttle, when I stay in the throttle , or when I am towing. This is with the same stock LP I had before.
I know there are alternatives such as FASS, but hey, if DC is going to buy me a new LP, and put it on for free, I'm gonna take it.
I started doing some research into a cure. I'm still new in the diesel world, and Boy did I learn something!!
1) I learned that when Dodge installs the LP relocation kit, they substitute a "dummy" aluminium block where the old LP used to live on the side of the engine block. Seems like an OK solution, until you learn more - read on. Here's a pics of the block I am talking about.
2) I learned that these "banjo bolts" they use to plumb the fuel system are amazingly (to me anyway) restrictive. Here is a picture of the magnifying glass shaped portion of the banjo bolt, with the tiny hole that all the fuel must flow through to feed the engine visible. It is next to the line used in the scotty kit. Can you imagine, towing all that weight (15,500# for me truck and trailer conbined) and every drop of fuel used has to flow through that hole that looks to be what, 3/16"?
3) Next picture is of the fittings/plumbing used in the scotty kit.
4) Here's a picture of the banjo bolt assembled, and one of the banjo bolt itself next to the scotty fitting.
There are a total of at least 5 of these banjo bolt connections on a stock Cummins. One on the inlet side of the LP, one on the exit side of the LP, one on the inlet side of the fuel filter, one on the exit, and one on the inlet side of the injection pump.
With this new system installed, my low fuel pressure light comes on only when I hit the key to the ON position. As soon as the engine fires, light goes out. It also doesn't come on when I get in the throttle, when I stay in the throttle , or when I am towing. This is with the same stock LP I had before.
I know there are alternatives such as FASS, but hey, if DC is going to buy me a new LP, and put it on for free, I'm gonna take it.
#2
Yup.. best thing is just to use 3/8 hose from the steel line to the filter housing.. Using the fitting.. works good.. There's also a fair place to relocate the pump if you don't go to the "in the tank" version... Just as the lines come out of the tank.. there is a small plastic line that can be removed.. a pump install between the tank, and the steel line.. this leaves the lines looking close to stock..
#4
That is the exact same thing I am going to do. Right now I have the pump in the stock location with the Scotty big line kit installed. Next, I'm going to relocate the pump back by the tank and put that aluminum block where the stock pump is located. Just need to get the aluminum block and fittings for the pump to be hooked in back by the tank.
Hey ib516, do you have the part# for that aluminum dummy block.
Mark
Hey ib516, do you have the part# for that aluminum dummy block.
Mark
#6
Thanks for the offer on that part but I won't be needing it since I just ordered the Vulcan Kit from Geno's Garage. It bypasses the stock pump area and hooks directly to the filter housing. Should work nicely with the Scotty big line kit I already have installed.
Mark
Mark
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#11
#12
who makes the LP relocation kit?? and part #'s if anyone has or the best place to get it??
also ib516
what is wrong with using the dummy block?? and or what did u use to bypass without using it?? was it just cause of the banjo bolts?? i am looking at replacing all my fuel lines and so forth to suppy more fuel any help u could give would be great i have a post on it.
thanks,
joe
also ib516
what is wrong with using the dummy block?? and or what did u use to bypass without using it?? was it just cause of the banjo bolts?? i am looking at replacing all my fuel lines and so forth to suppy more fuel any help u could give would be great i have a post on it.
thanks,
joe
#13
you can get a relocate kit from Vulcan performance in Washington, I made my own with 1/2" line and -8 M12x1.5 fittings. but bought the harness extention from Vulcan because for the price I just didn't want to make one. I used pushloc fittings and 1/2" goodyear hose rated 300psi. 3/8's is fine but the 1/2" looks like garden hose compared to stock. If you;re gong to go to the trouble of changing it may as well go 1/2".