Pic of 2nd Gen Cometic Headgasket
08-24-2007, 01:58 PM
#46
Chapter President
08-24-2007, 10:45 PM
#48
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Williston, ND
Posts: 1,003
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
also whats this "Scheid has just come out with a new "type" of gasket that should be here today. They told me it will handle 70 PSI."
08-25-2007, 09:24 AM
#50
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Magnolia, TX
Posts: 901
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you haven't touched your head yet and the gasket doesn't leak LEAVE IT ALONE! Lol The best way to keep the HG alive is wait until full operating temperature is reached before going above 20PSI boost. Changing out a HG is a total PITA, especially if you decide to make upgrades at the same time like P&P, rings, and etc. It all takes so long, lol. I finally finished my P&P last week so I dropped my head off to get firerings, a 3-angle vlavle job and 60lb. valve springs thursday and I can hopefully get it back and put on the truck by next friday 
Unless the HG is popped and in need of replacement don't touch it, no studs or anything... IMO
Unless the HG is popped and in need of replacement don't touch it, no studs or anything... IMO
08-25-2007, 11:12 AM
#52
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Arcadia, WI
Posts: 457
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have ARP 12mm studs. I ran them up to 140 (50, 75, 100, 125, 140) and then retorqued once at 140 (white knuckles). The most boost I make is 50 psi but run the timing at 23* (the same as with a stock gasket/bolt/head). My old gasket was in perfect shape when it came off. I too brought the engine up to temps before hammering it at pulls.
08-25-2007, 01:14 PM
#53
Registered User
If you haven't touched your head yet and the gasket doesn't leak LEAVE IT ALONE! Lol The best way to keep the HG alive is wait until full operating temperature is reached before going above 20PSI boost. Changing out a HG is a total PITA, especially if you decide to make upgrades at the same time like P&P, rings, and etc. It all takes so long, lol. I finally finished my P&P last week so I dropped my head off to get firerings, a 3-angle vlavle job and 60lb. valve springs thursday and I can hopefully get it back and put on the truck by next friday
Unless the HG is popped and in need of replacement don't touch it, no studs or anything... IMO
Unless the HG is popped and in need of replacement don't touch it, no studs or anything... IMO
It finally popped.
08-25-2007, 08:19 PM
#54
Hmm,so I guess the consensus is to not touch it? So even with my mods and a new turbo(looking at a Super B special) I don't have to worry about popping it? Should I retourque the stock head bolts? If so whats the best procedure??
08-25-2007, 08:56 PM
#55
Registered User
It could last 10 miles or 100000 miles. Headgaskets have a mind of there own. I would start saving for when it happens.
08-26-2007, 07:55 PM
#56
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: CT
Posts: 613
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ralph I was doing 53 lbs on mine before I went with the twins and never blew it, I oringed for piece of mind knowing what Id be pushing with them. Sooner or later though it will probably go. Id go w/arp studs instead of wasting time retorquing the stock head bolts. my 0.00002¢
10-28-2007, 02:34 AM
#57
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 1,292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
anyone get one for a 12v yet? I am going to run meth soon and I have stock HG and bolts. however I want to start collecting parts needed to change the gasket to the Cometic one with studs. can you guys post up a grocery list of things I will need along with the gasket and studs? do I need loctite? do the studs come with lube? how much coolant? anything else I should do when the head comes off?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Big Blue24
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
6
04-26-2008 11:44 PM
dieselman2300
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
49
01-30-2008 11:44 AM