P-Pump, Worth it?
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P-Pump, Worth it?
I have a 99' 24valve dodge, I recently aquired a wreked/rolled 98' 12 valve 4x4 for 400 bucks, the truck is completly destroyed, but the front timing cover and pump are ok on the engine, in the wreck the front axle was smashed into the oil pan and most likely destroyed the internals. So if i were to swap the p-pump into my truck what would be the benifits, downsides, would i be able to get the same power as my current mods? I have alot of time and expirence, and money to do the swap, just wanted some oppinions before hand.
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The biggest downside to it is that you won't have the easy on easy off power you have now, it will be there all the time. It shouldn't take much to get the power you have now, and you will never be stranded because that pile of crap vp-44 dies. I loved mine on the track this summer and will be driving it everyday again for the winter
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So your truck is fully streetable? What about injectors? I heard that the vp has a higher injection pressure, and the stock 24 valve injectors work poorly with a p-pump? My truck is usually my daily driver, i have a junk s-10 that i can drive while the swap takes place, but what about fuel milage? Will it kill me on fuel cause of the swap? And i will need a cam to run the manual lift pump correct? Can the 12 valve camshaft be used?
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If you want to run the mech. lift pump you will need the 24 valve cam with the lobe for the lift pump, or you could just run a FASS or similar electric pump.Stock injectors work fine, I had Columbus diesel rebuild and tweak my pump before I put it on and with the little they did, a stock set of injectors stock DV's, stock GSK tightened up to give me 3800 rpm and a pretty aggressive fuel plate, the truck would flat out run.It was all my hx-40 wanted. I didn't get to drive it alot before I lost a turbo,spun a bearing and trashed #6 cylinder about 250 miles from home, I was however grossing about 24000 lbs. I don't think it was using anymore fuel than before but I don't have any numbers. I am going to change from my big cut DV's back to stock, and put the stock injectors back in and back the big govenor springs off a little and drive it. I too have a P. O. S s-10 to drive around and I really can't wait to drive the cummins again.
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I have wandered for a long time...is it possible to just adjust the star wheel, and slide the cam plate back again, and bring the hp back to streetable power, and maybe even have a spare cam plate, one for the street, and one for when you get to the track for all out power? I really don't know much about the 12v's at all, but it just seems that this would be the best combo going, and as far as I know cam plates even with keeping the core would be cheaper than a chip or programmer.
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What about the electronics 24valvepuller? And would this be worth it for a daily driver? I'm mostly not doing it for power, but more for reliabilty and just to be unique, I doubt anyone in my area has done this , I wouldn't mind tweaking with it for a month or so to get it right either, just if after the tweaking it would run good. Also is there any sites with pics of the process, or maybe directions?
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I have wandered for a long time...is it possible to just adjust the star wheel, and slide the cam plate back again, and bring the hp back to streetable power, and maybe even have a spare cam plate, one for the street, and one for when you get to the track for all out power? I really don't know much about the 12v's at all, but it just seems that this would be the best combo going, and as far as I know cam plates even with keeping the core would be cheaper than a chip or programmer.
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What about the electronics 24valvepuller? And would this be worth it for a daily driver? I'm mostly not doing it for power, but more for reliabilty and just to be unique, I doubt anyone in my area has done this , I wouldn't mind tweaking with it for a month or so to get it right either, just if after the tweaking it would run good. Also is there any sites with pics of the process, or maybe directions?
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Well then, i'm gunna do the swap, who should i call to get injector lines? I've heard haisly? is there anyone else? And is there anything else i will need that is not on the 98'
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My buddy has a 98 24 valve and has already lost a stock pump, and his hot rod VP after not even 10k miles probably.He is thinking hard about a P-Pump. He has I think 150hp injectors, and a comp box. So his injectors would be fine with the p-pump then? Do you have to swap out the front cover, or do you just swap the pump over, and put new injector lines and things on it? If anyone can give a little more detail I would appreciate it, because I may be helping him do this in my shop if he does it. Thanks
Eric
Eric
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To change from a VP44 to a P-7100 you will have to change the timing gear housing. That means removing the camshaft from the engine. Plus all of the related work that is involved. Removing frt end, rad, intercooler and ac condenser to clear for cam removal. You will also need custom injector lines and to have pump and injectors tested and set to perform at its best.
#14
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There have been done lots of conversions around here.
they all bend the lines:
look:
http://community.webshots.com/album/551375357mVyngP
they all bend the lines:
look:
http://community.webshots.com/album/551375357mVyngP
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Does anyone know how the smoke is with a p-pumped 24 valve? I don't want it tuned more than it runs now with a comp module, what exactly would it take to get that power again?