P-pump Calibration vs Plate?
#16
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I don't think they changed the plate or anything like that. They must have a method using their specialized equipment to change the flow rate through the pump. Not sure of the details, but they claimed that their method of equalizing and improving flow is superior to just putting a plate in. Jury is still out on that one.
This morning I changed out the fuel filter since it had been ~8 months, hoping it would make a difference. Had the pleasure of finding a broken wire on the WIF sensor and spending half the day trying to find a dealer with one.
After that was finally finished, I noticed that I get a small amount of grey (not black) smoke when I stand on it in the driveway. Does this mean I need more fuel or what?
This morning I changed out the fuel filter since it had been ~8 months, hoping it would make a difference. Had the pleasure of finding a broken wire on the WIF sensor and spending half the day trying to find a dealer with one.
After that was finally finished, I noticed that I get a small amount of grey (not black) smoke when I stand on it in the driveway. Does this mean I need more fuel or what?
#20
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Have them check for proper fuel pressure to the injection pump could be a bad overflow valve on the injection pump (something they should know) Also ask them what the timing was set at (plunger lift on #1) this will be given in MM of lift also how many cc's each barrel is putting out on the test stand.(a good question to ask them and see if they know what is going on). You want to have around 15-16 degrees advanced timing for all around good performance on a mild street truck. The pump shaft and gear must be completely free of any oil when the nut is tightened or it will slip (retard timing) later and run like a dog and smoke white upon a cold start up.
#22
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If you would have played with the plate profile with a grinder, modified the afc arm, flipped the washers in the aernoid, and added a mack plug, you could have upped your output 1-200 hp all for less than 100 bucks. Add in a GSK and you'd have a sweet powerful daily driver.
For the 600 you spent, you could have purchased some higher output injectors that would have given you a 50-100 hp bump in power.
Make sure you hound that shop to give you what you paid for. At the very least, have them bump the timing and adjust your valve lash. Those two tasks are worth 200 -$250 in labor so if you can get them to do that for free, you won't have to feel taken for the $600 dollar 10hp increase.
For the 600 you spent, you could have purchased some higher output injectors that would have given you a 50-100 hp bump in power.
Make sure you hound that shop to give you what you paid for. At the very least, have them bump the timing and adjust your valve lash. Those two tasks are worth 200 -$250 in labor so if you can get them to do that for free, you won't have to feel taken for the $600 dollar 10hp increase.
#23
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Called the shop before bringing the truck back in. They had an emergency blown up Ford that required all of their attention. Guy said it had 5 cracked valve seats .
Guess I'll get mine in next week sometime. He said they were planning on checking the fuel pressure from the lift pump as well as check the injectors.
I have noticed a bump in power since changing the fuel filter. I also noticed a small puff of black smoke if I jump on it. I feel like now that the pump is working well, I can start to do all of the things listed by Big Blue. Looking forward to it.
Guess I'll get mine in next week sometime. He said they were planning on checking the fuel pressure from the lift pump as well as check the injectors.
I have noticed a bump in power since changing the fuel filter. I also noticed a small puff of black smoke if I jump on it. I feel like now that the pump is working well, I can start to do all of the things listed by Big Blue. Looking forward to it.
#24
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I just got back from out of town and found 2 puddles of diesel under my truck! It seems as though the inside the bottom of the frame rail is wet with fuel, and the puddles are where it is leaking through. The bigger puddle is as far back as the tank and the smaller one is about 3 feet in front of the tank.
Also, while I was looking for the origin of that leak, I found that I have a coolant leak somewhere too! The front of the engine from the sway bar to the alternator is either wet or has those orange rusty spots.
I didn't have either of these problems before I took it to the shop to get the pump calibration and front cover leak fixed. The shop doesn't open until Monday, so should I even try to drive it or wait? I'm supposed to be moving 100 miles away this weekend, but don't want to get stranded on the highway.
Also, while I was looking for the origin of that leak, I found that I have a coolant leak somewhere too! The front of the engine from the sway bar to the alternator is either wet or has those orange rusty spots.
I didn't have either of these problems before I took it to the shop to get the pump calibration and front cover leak fixed. The shop doesn't open until Monday, so should I even try to drive it or wait? I'm supposed to be moving 100 miles away this weekend, but don't want to get stranded on the highway.
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