Willy91

When you presurize the exhaust it will blw all of the shavings write back at you through the hole you're drilling. Alot easier than pulling the turbo.

P.J

News to me.

I would suspect the airflow would be less restricted flowing in torwards the motor or Turbo, hence putting the chips exactally where you don't want them.

I'm not saying it doesn't work, just stating that running the truck makes absolutely SURE that nothing will make it's way past the manifold (the wrong way)

Patrick Campbell

Taking the turbo off on these trucks is easy. Just unbolt it and cover the turbo. Stuff a rag in and also cover it with cardboard. Drill it. Tap it. Turn the truck on and rev it up a few times. Done!

Hazmat1234

PJ, If you create pressure within the exhaust tube from the shop vac when you drill and tap the manifold you will blow the metal chips back at you when you break through the manifold into the exhaust port with the drill. You can feel the air coming at you with your hand. You have no chance of getting chips of metal into the turbo. It is basically the same as what I have read about putting a rag into the exhaust and starting the engine to create back pressure. Except when you do that you have an engine that is vibrating and a exhaust manifold that is getting hot while you are trying to drill and tap it. Like you mentioned in your post above(have a buddy fire up the engine). I am doing the same thing with a shop vac. Blowing pressure into the manifold. NOW please tell me why you would advise against this procedure?????

P.J

Huh, I never heard the rag in the exhaust part, just starting the truck. The idea was to have positive pressure on the manifold so stuff didn't go in.

I can say with 100% certainty that with the truck running, NOTHING is heading in via the maniflold, everything is exiting.

I guess anyone can do it however they like.

So I guess in closing, if you don't own a Shop Vac, just start the truck, it works fine..........

Hazmat1234

Yea, I guess if you want to work on a hot exhaust manifold. I talked with David at Dieselmanor about it and he said the shop vac on pressure would work just fine. He said even he wouldn't do it with the motor running trying to drill and tap it.
Just a thought... More than one way to do something...

Sea:\>Drive

Go slow with the tap, and back it out every turn or so and test fit your probe. I purchased a guage that did not have an adjustable probe depth and this was my only course of action to ensure the probe wasn't too deep (NPT threads are tapered). Just a quick tip, hope it helps.

As for being nervous, I was as well, and tried it on some scrap stuff I had in the garage prior to doing it. Once I figured out how easy it really was, off to the races I went, and never looked back.

For chips, just used the grease/mechanics magnet to clean up prior to starting. This made me nervous as well, so after running it a few miles, I checked the turbo fins and had absolutely no damage.

There are many ways to skin a cat, which ever way makes you comfortable, do it that way.

sadlerb_98

Thanks guys for all the replies. I called Dave at Dieselmanor and I will go ahead and order the gauges tonight. I will find some scrap metal to try it out the tap first. My father in law is a machinist and has been for 30 years. He says it is a piece of cake too.

I've re-read the link to PDR Diesel Performance. Those are easy measurements. Since this is taperd tap will the depth be easy to figure out? Is this well explained in the Diesel Manior instructions?

I will paint the A-pillar first and wait a few days to install the gauges. That will give me a few days to read over the instructions.

I just ordered the kit from Dieselmanor. I got the A-piller 3 gauge mount with pryo, boost, F.P. Dave said I should get the 60 psi boost gauge so I did.

Thanks for all the tips.

Bob

sadlerb_98

I got my ISSPRO gauges from Dieselmanor yesterday. Should I order a trans temp gauge? I don't haul yet but I am thinking of getting a fiver. Seems like it would be better to do this all at once.

thanks,
Bob