sadlerb_98

I think I will order my gauges tonight. ISSPRO Gauge Kit, 2002 24 Valve Dodge Cummins, 3-Gauge Kit -- Pyro, Boost, and 30 PSI Fuel Press and the DieselManor 36-inch S.S. braided fuel pressure hose with fittings and Dodge Banjo Bolt, for use on 1998.5+ 24-Valve Cummins. I think this will be everything that I need. Does the boost bolt work well? Is the pyro easy to hook up? Does that require me to drill? I've never installed gauges before but that has never stopped my in the past.

Thanks!

Willy91

The boost bolt does work well for the boost guage. Yes you have to drill for the pyro here's a link to a website that should help.
http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechPyroInstall.htm

sadlerb_98

Willy91:

Thanks for the link! Looks like I will have to do some more reading and searches.

Bob

P.J

Drilling/Tapping the manifold was the step I was most concerned about. I waited until my brother came up for the holidays and made him do it. I figured he'd jump right in there with less nerves than me, seeing as it wasn't his truck and all.

It went very smooth, no issues at all. I read and re-read alot of threads here regarding how far to tap, and some tips that made me comfortatble with NOT removing or unbolting the Turbo.

You should be fine. Don't hesitate to ask here if you hit a bump in the road.

The Diesel Manor instructions are absolutely sweet, they will have you feeling pretty confident when you read through them a few times. They have some nice pictures of where to drill for the pyro probe and which bolt to replace with the boost bolt.

sadlerb_98

Thanks P.J. The pyro is the one I am worried about. I've read just about every thread on here concerning the pryo install now. I read one thread about a warranty concern wity the pryo. Does anyone have any info on this? I have 68,500 on the truck now.

thanks,
Bob

Ph4tty

Looks like you've got everything. DieselManor even has the bits/taps if you need them.

P.J

Bob, you have an 02.5? Is that a 5 or 7 year warranty? Or are all Cummins 5/100?
I have heard so many different stories, it's hard to tell. I've read here where people have had warranty threats on a F/P gauge too??
My warranty (time wise) ran out just as i installed my gauges (I had about 72K on)
I think you'll be fine, take your time with it. I've done more damage in haste than anything, that goes for automotive repairs and realtionships!

sadlerb_98

Thanks P.J. I'm not sure if it is 5 or 7 years. So, the bit and tap do not come with the kit? I called a local shop today. They want 275 to 300 for f.p. only installed and 800 for the three gauge setup. Looks like I could save a bundle if I just do it myself.

Bob

P.J

I think the tap cost me about $9.00 and the bit was around $3.00.

They are out of thier tree with those prices. I had NO proir experience, myself and my brother put my stuff in in about 5 hours start to sweeping up.
Nothing that can't be done by the average wrencher.

sadlerb_98

P.J. Did you have to buy the bulb covers too? I think ours uses green right? But I don't know what size bulbs...there are two sizes listed on the site..T-5 & T-10. I also will order ther 1/8th " drill bit and tap. does that sound right?

thanks Bob

P.J

Bulb covers should be included (I think, if not they are like .30c) Yes, they are green, a little weak I might add too. If they were just a little darker green they would match my factory guages much better.
The gauges will come all outfitted with the right bulbs. The instructions will tell you to tone the ones on the pyro (I think) down a bit by making a line over the bulb itself with a Sharpie marker. They will also tip you off to color in tiny, lower section of the bulb so they don't accidentially shine out through the back of your pod.

The tap for the newer Isspro pyro is 1/8" NPT it's quite big as they are talking inside diameter.

21/64 th's will work for a drill bit. The manifold is soft, grease the tip of the bit up to catch the shavings as you go. Clean it often as you go. You can use a shop vac or maganet tool to remove any bits that may fall into the manifold at the end. I used another technique I learned here, it goes like this:

When you think you are about to break through, have a buddy (or wife, g/f, etc.) fire up the truck for you as you finish it up. This way there is positive pressure, any tiny peices are sure to blow out your exhaust and not go the other way. TAKE YOUR TIME tapping. As I said, it's cast, so it's not like your tapping case hardened steel here. You would have to be very unlucky, or mighty stupid to break the tap off.

Hazmat1234

David at Dieselmanor is great to work with. I did the four gauge install above the mirror and it took me about 4 hours from start to finish. The one thing I did on drilling out the exhaust was I hooked my shop vac hose up to the discharge side of the vac so I had air blowing out of my hose and then placed that into the end of the exhaust pipe. Sealed it up with a few shop rags and duct taped it into place. Turned on the vac which is now blowing and it created enough pressure in the exhaust to blow out the drill/tap shaving while you are drilling and tapping. I did a few other mods on the overhead mount to hold into place instead of using the velcro that comes with the pod. Now I don't have to worry about the adhesive coming loose here in the valley of the sun....

sadlerb_98

Hazmat1234,

Thanks for the tip! I like that better than starting the truck. How thick is the manafold? As for the tap....did you do 2 or 3 full turns then 3/4 or 1/2 turn counter clockwise and repeat until finished? Seems pretty easy but I've never used a tap before....

bob

Hazmat1234

Drill out, then tread the tap into the hole. After you get the tap started by 2-3 turns back out 1/2 turn to "break" off the metal chip the tap is making by cutting the threads. Turn the tap another 1 - 1.5 turns cutting new threads then back out 1/2 turn to "break" off the chips again. When you get you tap you will see it has grooves in it. These grooves allow for the metal chips to fall into the grooves as the threads are being cut... The link above in a previous posting is what I used in drilling my manifold. Look at the pics and make sure you drill as shown. Otherwise you will hit the partition on the inside of the manifold.

P.J

Blow it "out" to where?

I thought the object was to not have the metal get into the intake ot Turbo?
The method I used (widely used by others) assures that any debris is sent the RIGHT way,........ out.

Now, if you take the turbo off, and use the shop vac there I could understand.

I'm glad it worked for you, but I (personally) would strongly recommend against that method.