DetroitDiesel71

I am calling Dave this morning to place my order, as you can all see I am pretty much stock now, so I am wanting to make sure I get everything right. I am ordering I guess his basic build with the triple disc, and am getting a new flex plate. What other items should I get in advance such as parts, pieces, tools before the tranny gets here. I have 209,000 on the original trans and am hoping it even makes until I get this new one... Any ideas on removal/install lessons learned would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for all the great help here on DTR

Stephen

AlpineRAM

Well, get a good tranny jack! That bugger is heavy and cumbersome. (And will rouin your day when it drops on any part of your body)

You need to support the rear side of the engine to avoid it tilting back- which would cost you a radiator at least.
I don't see if yours is a 4wd, if it is mark the vacuum lines so you don't mess them up when reinstalling.

It's a good idea to get the crossover line with the bung for a temp sender for the tranny cooler.

A factory service manual has detailed steps on the removal, separation (4WD transfer case) and reinstallation of the tranny .

HTH

AlpineRAM

JD730

Definitely get a rear main seal with the miles you have on it. Also a good time to check u-joints and replace the T-case output seal if its leaking.
Where are you going to do this? No matter how careful you are your going to get oil on the ground/floor.
When you get to taking the crossmember out, don't try to pound it out, lift the trans up so the transmount bolts are out of the crossmember and pop it up and slide it back to where it will fall right out.

Oh yeah, drain the oil out first before you do anything.

Yes use a trans jack, beg, borrow or steal if you have to, call me if you can't find one, I have a relic that will work fine for that little trans. Your also going to need to get the front end at least 1ft higher and have it set on cribbing or something else safe.

Did you have to support the rear of your engine? When I did the clutch on my 2000 I had the jack under the back to support it and when the trans came unhooked from the engine it went up, so I had to put the jack up front to push the back of the engine back down.

His is 4x4, definitely mark the lines, all I would do is unhook them at the T-case and unbolt the hold down clamps and swing the whole thing up front and under the front axle.

lotero

if you can get a good long extension (3+ feet) that will make the top bellhousing bolts easier to get. check your tranny cooler lines i kinked one of mine, it ended up leaking a week later. i also hooked up the 4x4 vacuum lines backwards so make sure and take note of that. oh and the most important!! be prepared to smile alot after its done... i have had my tranny for a year now and love every minute

Box5

one more thing, to unbolt the TC from the flexplate theres a inspection plate on the front side of the engine adaptor, it's held on with two 10mm bolts i think, and so ur loosing each TC flexplate bolt blind. try not to drop any, although they'll come out in the end either way. There's 6 of those TC to flexplate bolts. The water to oil cooler lines drain alot of oil so be prepared, I was a ATF mess afterwards. the O/d linkage has a spring that might be confusing to put back on right, so note it's position. Other than that, take ur time, and it'll go smooth.

DetroitDiesel71

thanks for all the input guys, I just hope this one can last until I get the rebuilt one. It slips pretty bad now, and feels like torque converter is getting ready to let go.

Box5

might as well do a couple boosted launches to send it to the junkyard in style, lol.

cameroneod

Getting any billet? You should really get an input at least. Broken input shaft can cause some carnage.

turboman1

Not to pry but how much did it cost and what all are you getting. I am asking because i am might be getting some stuff from Georend and wanted to know some prices?

Thanks Adam

DetroitDiesel71

turboman, I am getting the standard duty package which is $3250, but I think I am going to have them install a billet input shaft. I also am getting the billet flexplate which is another $500, so all said and done without core charge I figure its worth the money since the truck is not going anywhere, is paid off and is so reliable, even now with the dying tranny in it.

lotero

the billet flex plate is pretty expensive, but check out the laminate one. thats the one i have and dave said i will be good with it, its ASI or whatever certified so its good enough for race cars or the like and significantly cheaper

bridleman

Sorry for high jacking this thread but I'm just curious what it would take to swamp a built auto trans in place of the 6sp I have now? How much would doing this cost roughly??

JIT

I dont think the standards have the right wiring to run the auto. Could be wrong though!?!?

OutlawStorm

One thing Dave wanted me to do was change the fittings in the trans for the cooler lines,, as the factory plastic clips break and leak easily, THe new ones he put in mine will never do that he said. I never did the billit input on mine,, Dave said unless you plan on grossing 26,000 or more its not needed. With my 2500 I cant legally get that much weight, so I never did it. Dave built mine to handle the weight i pull,, and that is 13,000 pounds , been in since March 07 and have not one complaint, best money I spent on it,, waiting for Dave to get my next one ready for my dually, that one will have some billit shafts as it will be pulling alot more than my 2500 does,,, Enjoy your new trans, you will love it.

By the way tell Dave what max weight you will pull and he will only use the parts needed, he will NEVER try to sell you anything you dont need!

lotero

do a search.

let us know when you get the tranny and how it goes, i was suprised how fast mine was shipped to me! oh yea one more thing, dont let your buddies put their beers on the radiator or motor at anytime, especially when your torquing the converter bolts...