I am wanting to hook up the mystery switch and I see that there are two orange and black wires in the center loom. What is the easiest way to find out which one is the right one with out hurting anything. Will it hurt the computer if I hook the wrong one up? Thanks,Gary

 

Don't risk using the wrong wire!!
I'll look it up tonight.

I think it is pin 31 of the center plug. But will check for you.

 

Mine was B11 on the center plug.

 

I guess I don't understand when you say b11? Is that the up and down order of the wires. If you could keep it simple cause I'm kinka electrically illiterit!

 

http://www.tstproducts.com/ Go here and read about the lockup switch, scroll down to installation instructions and click and go to the mystery switch. Goodluck,,Rick

 

Center plug on the computer. Then find pin 11 , it will be a orange with black tracer wire.

The early trucks 94-95 could just ground this wire. Later trucks will set a code if done that way. It needs a pull up resistor and some diodes.
Most of us find the lock-up switch/mystery switch will kill a stock TC.
I took my switch out. It isn't needed with a correctly working trans. Unless you are sled pulling or using an exhaust brake.

 

j-fox, what about just using to keep the converter locked, once in OD? I have one and that's how I mostly use it. If I use it while switching into od, I use my right foot for a an easy shift.

 

I am wanting to lock it up in drive, I only pull the truck once a year at the local pull. I do have a four disk convertor with billet shafts. I broke the output shaft in the overdrive power braking it so the rest of the trans ought to hold up. I'm guessing b-11 is the second row number 11 pin,right. Mine is a 97, will this screw anything up grounding this wire? I really don't care about setting a code with the age of the truck. Thanks,Gary

 

The switch will store two codes. One for the torque converter clutch solenoid and one for the relay.

It will not turn on you MIL light, it will just store the codes.

Locked shifts do not break output shafts. Stall speed test (or power braking) will break an output shaft.

Output shafts are cake to change compared to an input shaft.

The wire is orange wire with a black tracer. Don’t forget to pull the relay and make the jumper.


Justin

 

You do have to take the relay out? I thought maybe just tapping into the wire and going threw a switch to ground would do it. You're right, I was power braking it when the shaft broke. One of my usual dumb moves!I tried to look up the lockup switch on here but couldn't get ahold of anything I could understand. Wireing is my weakest point, I don't understand schematics at all. Maybe I better leave it alone. Thanks,Gary

 

After doing a few switches, you can knock one out in 25-30 minutes.

As long as the switch is used for engine breaking and not racing (ya right) your trans will be just fine.

Just do the switch. PM me if you have any problems and I will give you my cell and I can walk you through it.

 

the other orange black is a wait to start wire. (just did a remote start on mine)

 

So I don't have to mess with the relay or I do!If all that has to be done is ground the wire I think that can be handled. If you jumper the relay it won't work except with the switch right? Remember I'm easy to p.s. I promise I won't race with it on! Thanks,Gary

 

You have to pull the relay and jump it. With the jumper it wil perform just like stock. Kind of wierd, but it will.

If you just ground the wire without jumping the relay it will not work.

 

Just follow the instructions here, it couldn't be any simpler
http://www.tstproducts.com/Torque%20...p%20Switch.pdf