MKELLY

Need to replace my batteries, I've read a ton of info from the site and optima seems the only logical choice. Advance has a sale on them and I checked with them and they didn't offer them for the Dodge CTD and he had no clue about the 34/75 # I gave him. I went to the Optima web site and they too did not offer a battery for the CTD Could someone help clear this up for me Thanks.

displacedtexan

I have the 34/78 in mine...

infidel

Never a problem starting up in the Montana winter with a pair of now seven year old 34s.
They are a little smaller than the stockers, watch that the hold down bolts don't hit any wire looms under the battery holder and you'll do fine.

displacedtexan

Not to nit pick, but remember even though they are physically smaller and lighter, they are more powerful, 980 cranking amps, and 800 cold cranking amps.

Thus the excellent performance experienced by infidel, myself and many others...

DRM

IMHO, they are just not *that* great of a battery, and not worth the high pricetag for sure - especially considering you can get higher cca for lower price out there on the market.

From another board I frequent, that deals with off road trail rigs:

"My experience with selling literally hundreds of them is that if left discharged, they sulfate quickly and will not take a recharge, necessitating replacement. Other than that, they're fine, they just don't have the plate area of a plate/acid type regular battery so the CCA is lower (if you need max CCA). Once sulfated, they're never going to take a charge again, so you're dead in the water until you can get it replaced. They have a decent warranty (still not as good as my plate/acid type battery's 3 year free replacement IIRC) but that doesn't do you any good if you're out in the boonies with a sulfated battery. The other problem is that Optimas should not be fast charged. Under no circumstances should charging voltage exceed 15 volts from what the rep from Johnson Controls told me when I was still in the auto parts business.

I know Optimas have a loyal following, and they're fine for most people. I have had bad experiences with the entire design. If I had a buggy, I'd have some type of sealed battery, but I have a full bodied truck and even if I do roll, acid isn't going to spill on me anyway. The last time I rolled, I didn't even spill any acid and I'm still using the same batteries.

There are arguements for both sides, but those are my experiences."

caper

I think the 34s are the same battery as the 34/78 only the 34/78s have the side terminals also . Correct me if I'm wrong , it has happend once before.

camelracer

I've run a red top in my Jeep for 10 years now with no problems. Even let it sit on the garage floor for 2 years while rebuilding the vehicle and it started without a recharge. Best battery I've ever owned and I'll get another if this one ever dies. The red top with top terminals should work great in the CTD.

infidel

How's this for a Redtop testimonial?
A welder friend has one on his Lincoln portable welder that was dropped over five years ago and is missing the lower half of it's case. Still works just fine.
Try that with a lead acid battery.

They might cost most more but are far better than dealing with terminal and cable corrosion.
Not mention having a lead acid vent out and eat your fenders.

MKELLY

Thanks for all the input Folks, went down to Advance Auto Parts had her pull out the Optima book and a pair of 34/78/980 were $253.23 out the door, not on hand, but could get them in next day. The Optima's were not a listed option for the CTD, Then went to Autozone ( man on a mission) Optima's were a listed option for the CTD, same price, same 3 year free replacement warranty, and covered for 6 years. Gotta go with the pro's who know! Thanks again!

MKELLY

Oh yeah the 34/78/980 are a Dual SAE Post & GM terminal, neither place could find them with just the SAE Posts. Battery with just SAE posts 37.9 lbs / Battery with both is 38.8 lbs the physical spec's are the same 10" x 6 7/8 x 7 13/16. CCA @ 0F = 800, CA @ 32F = 1000, RC=110.

displacedtexan

Might check your quotes. Optimas also have a 3 year free replacement.

Also most of your complaints were from the standpoint of trail rigs with higher drains, and more idle time, not daily driven trucks. They would be better off with a deep cycle battery. Red Tops are starting batteries, not designed to be drained and fast charged... Thats why they make the Yellow and Blue Tops.

Also I wanted the side posts to add an aux fuse block. In my "someday" plans... I plan on having these batteries around for a while.

jrihani

I'll start out by saying I've had a pair of Optima D31A yellow-tops in my truck for the past two weeks. The decision was not an easy one but I had decided I really wanted to meet the minimum reserve capacity of the stock batteries but I also wanted to go with a "sealed" battery. The D31A has 900 CCA (1125 CA) and 155 mins RC.

There seems to be disagreement on the issue of fit so I will just relay my experience - they fit. The passenger side battery slid in there like the Johnson Control engineers were looking at my battery tray. The driver's side required me to mill off one of the tiny little stiffener ears on the tray for it to sit flat. I decided to just lengthen my battery bolts instead of replacing them.

No cold weather in Indiana right now but I feel pretty confident in this setup.

I would have rather purchased Odyssey 1700s or, even better, 2150s. Both would have required much more extensive battery tray "massaging" and I just didn't feel like messing with it.

I paid about $50 more a battery for the yellow-tops but for me it was worth it. A month before I spent an afternoon prepping and painting corrosion on my fenders from the factory batteries venting. Things should stay a bit neater now.

There are several people over on the TDR that have this same setup. If I lived in a warmer climate I would have loved to have done what willyslover did and go with one Odyssey 2150.

DRM

Just posting the text - those opinions are not mine to "check".

And trail rigs are no difference except for the possible addition of a winch - which woudl be high drain. Otherwise, it is still start and run, start and run - same as my daily driver.

Personally, $250 for 2 batteries is what I would consider a waste of money, but it's not my money to spend - so have at it

Fact remains - they are just NOT *that* great of a battery, period. There are other options out there that are better batteries for a variety of reasons.

DRM

Optima's are not a sealed battery, just so you know

They are not "dry" or "gell, they are an AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) battery. They do have a vent (small black cap on the top) and they will vent. Will they leak, no, not really... but they are definately not sealed.

jrihani

"Sealed" is the wrong term...you are correct. As I said in my email, I would have loved to have gone with the Odysseys.

It will be interesting to see how much they vent/leak. My hope is that under normal loads and conditions the Optimas will not cause the same kind of corrosion I saw with the factory batteries.

These forums are great for gathering people's opinions. Everyone's opinion on what is a "waste of money" is so different. These trucks are often not only the driver's transportation, but also their hobby. That said, $350 for batteries that won't eat my fenders is money well spent. Throw in the "jewelry" factor for underhood good looks and I'm glad I dropped the money.