Ok so here are my current plans for my truck as listed in my sig:
-Install boost/pyro/tranny temp
-Move plate forward (thinking about waiting till I'm done with trans though it's already ground to #100 plate)
-Goerend triple lock converter
-Trans-go shift improver kit and VB mod for lock-up in second gear
-Port match exhaust manifold to head and turbo to manifold
-Fabricate my own collector type turbo flange to ease the waste gated exhaust in with the main 4" down pipe that I am also fabricating
-Ether injection for cold starts
-Set timing to 17*
-Install the free GSK washer mod

I am doing the guages, exhaust, ether injection, and free GSK sometime this week. I will be getting the parts for my transmission in the next few weeks when I get my back-pay check for disability from the Marine Corps. As for timing I'm not so sure I want to buy a $150 kit that I am to use once; as far as finding one the only thing I came close with was a wrench that a buddy lent to me... Only one problem, those DV holders are socked on there at 85ft-lbs and the wrench only slipped (I stopped trying after it slipped once so it wouldn't strip...). I have a barring tool and a dial indicator (though it is American I did some quick math and 17* is roughly .2598" (6.6mm plunger lift CPL 1815)

Now as far as future plans go...

-Serious port and polish (intake plenum planed off)
-ZZ Fabrications aluminum intake manifold
-Custom fabricated dual intake runner with water/meth fogger in each
-Bigger valves (at least on the intake side)
-Three angle valve seat grind
-Higher ratio rocker arms
-Stiffer valve springs
-Bullet Cams custom grind (they grind all our cams for us formerly Ultradyne)
-ATS three piece exhaust manifold
-Billet input/intermediate/output shafts
-Bigger 7-hole Nippendenso injectors nozzles (possibly laser cut for more flow)
-Laser cut DV's
-Timing set ~20*
-Ag P-Pump (tweaked for 5k)
-Ballanced rotating assembly (including .030 over Ross diesel pistons)
-.010 over head gasket
-O-ringed and studded
-Marine HG
-Chrome Molly gap less rings


Now here is where input is needed... I am considering a 64/14 phat shaft or a custom twin set-up I like the idea of a decent sized single with drugs. If I go the single route I will more than likely add a small shot of Nitrous to aid in the air department should it be choked out on the top end at all.

Now I know that saying this will more than likely get me flamed a bit, but I want to actually keep it somewhat street able. That is why I like the idea of a larger single. Though I also like the cost effective 14cm 35 over a HT3B... Though maybe a 35/40 hybrid over a HT3B or even S400 would be a better combo. I don't really know a whole lot about making street able horsepower; I build pulling tractors so turbo lag doesn't matter cause we build boost before we launch anyways - we just need to move air and that's it. I usually don't get into the turbo end of it anyways. I let someone else do that.......

Anyways bring on the knowledge

 

havent read through it all but you may want to second guess your 'ether injection' as once it hits your grid heaters, it could very well go BOOM!!!!!

 

Now *that* sounds like an interesting project!
Nothing to add, just subscribing to the thread

 

There's a 1/8 NPT hole that's plugged off in the head casting.... Below the heater grid I know the perils of ether injection pre-manifold heater; there are several tractors that use engines with a similar setup (ie manifold heater) that we have seen through our shop for busted rings/piston skirts due to said "BOOM" Also seen a few in for improper use of ether; didn't wait for smoke to start rolling before they loaded the intake with ether..... VERY bad combo.

As far as this being an interesting project; that's what I'm hoping for

 

I want pics!

I've been told the improvised method of making a timing wrench using a cutting torch. Heat a properly sized wrench up and bend the wrench into a U and pull one side up a bit for offset then cut it in half, flip one side and weld it back together in a S shape. Thats the Boatnik method, but with the money you're going to put into that thing you might as well just buy a wrench =P

 

I still wouldn't use either for ANYTHING. I just don't see how it can't be bad for it, especially a turbocharged engine. If anything, spray a small shot of WD-40 to get it going!

 

Ok... So now I find out that I have a WH1C with a 12cm WG housing... Now my question to the turbo guru's is if I can get a 14cm WG housing for said WH1C As far as I can tell the inducer is in the 62-64mm range so I would only assume that a 14cm exhaust housing would allow me to support 500hp or so?

As far as ether goes; it is perfectly safe on all engines IF it used properly. WD40 does you no good as it doesn't raise combustion temperatures... It will make it run a little smoother, but it won't help it warm up faster.

Now as for pics... Will take some of the trans build and of the engine build process (when I get to it), I will be painting it soon too so there will be some before,during, and after pics of that

 

Why use ether???

do you need to warm up the engine so fast? just wondering

good luck!

 

Sometimes yes I do... Like when I go to leave work, I cannot go outside a half hour before I punch out and take 5 minutes to go start my truck. It gets to be -40 around these parts occasionally and half an hour isn't always enough time either... Also, since the heater grid knocks so much charge out of my batteries I was having trouble starting my truck until I put in a set of Interstate Megatrons so I was looking at eliminating my grid heater. I can't use it to warm the engine up once it's running either because the PCM is out and I have to manually cycle them, not to mention my charging system set-up can't charge hard enough to keep up with the draw that the heaters take also. Not to mention they restrict airflow.

Another thought, since I'm on the airflow subject, I might remove the intercooler in place of a water/meth injection set-up. The intercooler is quite restrictive and I am not going to spend $1500 for one that isn't AS restrictive. You get the same cooling properties with the water/meth and there aren't nearly as many bends and extra pipes and the like. Then also a better intake design (full plenum) is easier to fabricate after a good port and polish with an aluminum intake. Not to mention the water meth ads a steam affect to the combustion process which cleans the engine and makes more brute power due to the steam (think of an old steam engine). And if the water meth isn't enough to cool things down enough then there's always the addition of Nitrous on top of it all which could make up for not going with twins (there is an 1100hp 5.9 with a BIG single running a good shot of NOS)

 

The only thing I use ether for is to shoot potatoes 300yards out of my tater gun!!!

 

Yes the 14cm will fit the H1C. I would go with an ATS Aurora 4000 or 5000 Or a set of twins if you want to make all that power street able. If you want to use the H1C till then go to HTTurbo.com and get there largest compressor upgrade and 14cm w/g housing. But that wont make the high power that you want in the end but that is a cheaper way to go for now.

 

I was thinking twins for streetability and to keep things cool since that would be a pretty hot running set up... Now, as for twins, should I cheap out and rob an HTB3 holset for a primary and find a 14cm wg HX40 for the top? I have access to those pretty regularly and wonder if that would be a decent set-up.... Maybe a 16cm HX40, I have more access to those; just wonder if that would be too big and defeat the purpose of quick spool on the twins?

 

We have a fleet of over 400 trucks, the trucks have a 15yr service life and go anywhere from 500k to 700k miles between inframes. We use either every winter on every truck and I have yet to see a problem. A little snort sure takes the stress off the starter and batts.