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Oil Pressure Gauge ...question??

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Old 09-24-2005, 06:56 AM
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Oil Pressure Gauge ...question??

Can some one please tell me before i start. Is there any reason why i can't install a mechanical oil pressure gauge without disconnecting the pressure sensor?
I assume if you leave the pressure sensor unconnected, this will tell the computer that there is an oil pressure problem.
I intend to use a tee, so both can be connected together, i haven't quite worked out the plumbing yet, but i need to know if it will work in practice or will the additional plumbing cause false readings on the oil pressure sensor, creating problems with the computer....
Old 09-24-2005, 08:34 AM
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Theres no need to use a tee. On the filter canister there is a 1/8" NPT plug. Take the plug out, screw in the fitting you are using and run the line into the cab (I would use a needle valve here as well). I plan on doing this as well just havent got around to it.
Old 09-24-2005, 11:08 AM
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Thanks, thats great, glad i asked
Just hope we call "a needle valve " the same over here. where's the best position for the valve??
I take it it's not worth the expense using an isolator similar to a fuel isolator then??
Old 09-25-2005, 10:29 AM
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Dont think theres any need for an isolator. They tend to fail anyway., so why even bother??

Make sure you use proper line (I'd suggest braided S.S. or hydraulic line)....as you'll be running hot oil up to 100 psi into your cab.

This is what a needle valve looks like:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...cat=500&page=2
Old 09-26-2005, 03:43 PM
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I think i'll be a little strapped for space in the A pillar with a braided or hydraulic line, but i could run it as far as the bulk head, oil won't get that hot there, then use the thin plastic tubing to the gauge.. Thanks for the photo and the info.
Old 09-26-2005, 07:48 PM
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There is no flow in the line, only pressure change, it won't get hot.
Just get a mechanical oil pressure gauge install kit from any autoparts.
It will come with all the fittings you need and boost gauge style tubing for about $10. You won't need a needle valve as there is very little pulsation with oil pressure as compared to fuel pressure.
This is the way oil pressure gauges in new vehicles were done for decades until electrical gauges came out.
Old 09-26-2005, 08:42 PM
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Hmm, Bill, I dont really understand that...why wont the oil be hot? Isnt that port the same as the other that supplys oil to the turbo??

So I can use any kind of tubing that is rated for 100 psi??
Old 09-26-2005, 09:50 PM
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The oil doesn't get hot, as there is no flow thru that tube.

Once it fills, it only sees pressure changes.

If you had a way to return oil flow back to the sensor thru the gage, then yes, it would get hot.


NOW...if the line fails, you WILL get hot oil in the people space......and it don't feel good.


I recommend using the copper tubing. I had the nylon stuff fail on a car once, and it sprayed oil all over my legs...hot oil. kinda freaks ya out when yer driving down the road.
Old 09-26-2005, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TRCM
I recommend using the copper tubing. I had the nylon stuff fail on a car once, and it sprayed oil all over my legs...hot oil. kinda freaks ya out when yer driving down the road.
EXACTLY why its illegal to have oil and fuel inside the cabin.

A good electric gauge is plenty accurate these days. if you insist on mechanical, please use an isolator!
Old 09-27-2005, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Timmay2
EXACTLY why its illegal to have oil and fuel inside the cabin.

A good electric gauge is plenty accurate these days. if you insist on mechanical, please use an isolator!
Since when has it been illegal?
It is only illegal in a few states to sell a fuel pressure gauge without an isolator. There is no law about running either fuel or oil into the cab.
Electrical gauge senders tend to fail more often than the system they are monitoring.
What good is that?
Old 09-27-2005, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Timmay2
EXACTLY why its illegal to have oil and fuel inside the cabin.

A good electric gauge is plenty accurate these days. if you insist on mechanical, please use an isolator!
Timmay....thanks for your input I (and Im sure others as well) do appreciate it but Im with infidel on this one. I will probably use either braided S.S. or custom hydraulic line and Im not worried the least bit.
Old 09-27-2005, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
Hmm, Bill, I dont really understand that...why wont the oil be hot? Isnt that port the same as the other that supplys oil to the turbo??

So I can use any kind of tubing that is rated for 100 psi??
TCRM explained it.
Think about it, the tubing dead ends at the gauge, once it's filled where can it flow?
Just use plastic or copper 1/8" tubing.
Old 09-27-2005, 01:02 PM
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Excellent, thanks for the info. I have found the port on top of the filter housing, should be easy now (fingers crossed). Going to use copper tubing, think i've got a roll of brake lining, lying around somewhere.

Just glad i haven't got the problem of legal/illegal..

Taa very much folks
Old 09-27-2005, 06:46 PM
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Is a 0 - 100 PSI guage the correct range for oil pressure?

Thanks
Old 09-27-2005, 06:53 PM
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ades, I would think twice about using hard copper tubing.......it cant flex...and it will eventually fail.


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