NV4500 to Goerend Full Billet 47rh conversion DONE!!
#1
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NV4500 to Goerend Full Billet 47rh conversion DONE!!
Well the NV4500 to Goerend full billet 47rh conversion is DONE!! I had some sidetracks along the way, but its done. I had everything in Thursday, took it for a spin and when I got back it was puking ATF from between the t-case and trans.. I couldnt get a trans output shaft seal last night, so I got one on Sat., and changed the trans and t-case seal. Talked with Dave Goerend and he said the seals for the trans are pathetic, and he said to RTV the trans and tcase together.
I also found out the TV/kickdown cables are different from the 12 valve and 24 valve. The 24s are about an inch longer. I had a 12v cable and swapped it out and all is good.
I must say its a drag racers dream. I didnt know what I was actually missing!!
The lockup switch is friggin awesome, I flip it on in 2nd ger and it burns the tires off!!
Thanks,
Tony
I also found out the TV/kickdown cables are different from the 12 valve and 24 valve. The 24s are about an inch longer. I had a 12v cable and swapped it out and all is good.
I must say its a drag racers dream. I didnt know what I was actually missing!!
The lockup switch is friggin awesome, I flip it on in 2nd ger and it burns the tires off!!
Thanks,
Tony
#5
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I too have been thinking about it, by the time I buy an input shaft, and a good twin disc, I might as well go a little further, could recoup some money from selling the 5 speed. What did you all have to change to make it work, shaft wise?
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#9
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Its not that hard of a job. Only parts needed besides the trans is:
Auto trans mount (not the rubber piece)
Tcase input shaft for an auto.
Tcase linkage from the auto. The adjuster rod is longer and the mount is different.
shorten rear drive shaft (I went with a one piece 4"-.095 wall) so far no vibration up to 110 on the highway. Makes removing driveshaft SIMPLE!! 4 bolts on the pinion.
Lengthen front drive shaft
TV/kickdown cable
Some kind of shifter (I have a B&M floor shifter)
Trans coolers. I did a B&M supercooler in front of the radiator and a Derale atomic cooler with fan and thermostat under the bed.
Lockup toggle switch, Brad Ponci has me doing a Hobbs switch, so lockup comes on by itself at around 40-42mph. But I will still have manual override toggle for drag racing.
O/D toggle switch. Also going to do the same as the lockup switch with the Hobbs switch.
Thats it!
I'm doing the Hobbs switches so if someone need to use the truck the can get in and drive it without having to flip switches.
Auto trans mount (not the rubber piece)
Tcase input shaft for an auto.
Tcase linkage from the auto. The adjuster rod is longer and the mount is different.
shorten rear drive shaft (I went with a one piece 4"-.095 wall) so far no vibration up to 110 on the highway. Makes removing driveshaft SIMPLE!! 4 bolts on the pinion.
Lengthen front drive shaft
TV/kickdown cable
Some kind of shifter (I have a B&M floor shifter)
Trans coolers. I did a B&M supercooler in front of the radiator and a Derale atomic cooler with fan and thermostat under the bed.
Lockup toggle switch, Brad Ponci has me doing a Hobbs switch, so lockup comes on by itself at around 40-42mph. But I will still have manual override toggle for drag racing.
O/D toggle switch. Also going to do the same as the lockup switch with the Hobbs switch.
Thats it!
I'm doing the Hobbs switches so if someone need to use the truck the can get in and drive it without having to flip switches.
#11
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#15
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