Erska

Hi guys. I have been reading for years trucks with twin turbos, killed kdp's fire ringed heads etc...

I just thought that I'll buy head gaskets with o-rings, studs, mach 6 injectors etc. And the other stuff is ,, changing the steering gear and install the ram assist with it, kill the kdp, install quadzilla adrenaline, f1 valve springs, hd pushrods, install stacks, repair the starter motors copper contact surcases etc...

But jeez, what a pain in the butt it is when you are taking off the cyl head, the working positions... aargh.

I'm 6'6ft but my truck is 13" lifted with a feet longer than original buckstop bumper and it's so hard to get there.

I got my head off today, I'm going to get it o-ringed and maybe polished. I guess porting a head costs too much for gained adtvantage if using vp44?

How about ATS compounds? I didn't get any support braces, do they need one? That thing weights quite a bit. And I didn't get any instructions either, still don't need one, but those would be allways nice.

Do you guys have any tips for re-installing the head with o-ringed gasket and studs?

How about removing the heat exchanger? Every tip is well appreciated!

How about the stud/head tightening order?

Here's some pics:
http://kuvablogi.com/blog/9142/5/

Texas Dullie

When installing the new O rings place a small amount of Lth 1 grease in the
slot, this will help hold them in place, when tightening be sure to use the
correct thread sealer, snug all then counter clock wise, check on line for
correct specs to tighten all studs. Forget ATS compounds if you install there
system expect a tough time getting at your oil filter, there piping and materials used are crap, if you have not already purchased twins may I suggest Industrial Injection, I have just completed installing my third set in
my third 3500 along with 120 ind\CP3 twins have achieved 90lbs boost 825hp
good luck

cumminsdriver635

Some people take the front wheels off and let the truck sit on the rotors so that it is much lower to the ground. That might help you out a lot!

You have a sharp truck by the way!

Eric

Erska

Cumminsdriver635: thanks! I have thought of that but does rotors hold that kind of weight? Maybe if I put some wood blocks under the axle but let's see.

Do you guys have any other recommendations? It says that Texas Dullie is banned so I'm not actually convinced yet.

I ordered valve seals from offical Finnish Cummins dealer and that costed me 188€uros+ shipping, so about 200euros. That's about 290 bucks for 24 seals.

Mike D

You can move the heat exchanger behind the front bumper, just remember which way the lines go. You'll have to cut the mounting bracket off and fab up a new one using some L stock and bolt it to the cross members.

Erska

I allready have an steering fluid cooler there but maybe I can get it somewhere near there. Or maybe below the turbos? Liitle lower on the block?

How about machining the head? Do I really gain any advances except the o-ringing? I guess polisihng and porting an 24valve isn't neccessarily with the vp44? Does the 24v cylinder head flow enough for my setup?

Mike Holmen

I'm only 6'2" and I stand on a large box. Welcome to the club. I put my heat exchanger at the front under the front bumper. Buy good hose for the heat exchanger and I ran hoses from my tranny to it. Dump the stock tranny cooler, go with a heavy duty 1/2in oil cooler with a electric fan tranny cooler. You tranny will like the extra cooling ablity and better flow thru. The trick is to get everything to work when a ricer pulls up. Thats the fun part. Yes the cam and polished/port head will help. The trick is finding money to do it right.

Erska

Update:
I have now installed my fireringed head on with ARP studs and Mach 6's, I had to grind some stuff out of the front of the valve cover because the two front studs didn't fit.

I took transmission oils out yesterday and I'm going to mod the heat exchanger fluid piped today and putting the ats twins on.

I still have to change the cranshaft seal on the timing case cover, install the quadzilla and finish the Y-pipes on the bed and cut the Access roll-up cover.

Here's pics of the project:
http://kuvablogi.com/blog/9142/5/

I'm hoping to get her running this weekend.

What I have allready done are, blocking the kdp, rebuilt the starter motor, Fireringed the head, put hamilton springs and hamilton hd pushrods on, installed studs and the head back on, took the old tst pm3 off, removed the heat exchanger and allmost installed my stacks.

Mike Holmen

Almost time to light the fuze and see what you're ride can do. Congrats on bring the bad beasty to life.

Erska

Thanks.


Hey, can I just plug the two water lines that goes to the transmission heat exchanger? I removed the heat exchanger.

Or do I have to re-connect them? What ever the answer is, please explain it to me. Thanks.

I'm starting to think that I should re-connect them, but that gives me a little more work to do.

Mike D

XLR8R

Erska, at the power level you're building for - why no cam swap? (or did I miss it?)

With everything in front of the camshaft required to be removed, working on the engine is much easier with the improved access.

I'm only 6'3", but I can pull a head by hand just standing where the fan was...

Mike Holmen

Slam in a cam afterwards, get some miles on her and see what it does. I'm glad you put the heat exchanger in. What oil you using for the tranny? Have you done the tranny pressure tests yet? I'm curious what's you're tranny line pressure at. Mines around 90psi at idle. I did mine on a -15 deg C day, with the windows open. The formula cam's you don't need to change the tappets. I want to try one out next year when I'm gonna fix my front oil seal. Porting the head helps are well as much as the cam does. I'm curious what boost numbers you're pulling?

Erska

I did remove the transmission heat exchanger.
I just cut the original exchanger pipes under the turbine converter and reconnect them straight to the oil cooler. I did put a quadzilla adrenaline oil temp sensor on the line too.

The winter is coming in here and I can monitor my temperatures very well.

If I have troubles, I can allways take the line that I reconnected off from the oil cooler at front and looped it there with the heat exchanger.

My crossmember is full. I have allready a cooler there.

http://kuvablogi.com/nayta/1213677/

That's a PSC steering system fluid cooler.

And the reason for the cam, well, my total due for the parts that I recently bought was 10800dollars(+32% of tax!) and I still want a ATS transmission controller, Fluid dampener, Cam, Water Methanol system, ARB Air locker or Detroit locker, Billet output shaft, Winch on the front, stretch the cab like this:


Be the owner of the first legally approved 5th wheel for the pick-up in here etc...

And I didn't think that the Cam was that neccessary at the moment. And I do have a 300pound aftermarket bumper on the front so no thanks at the moment.

wurkenman

I cant wait to hear the report when this is finished. Erska, you have taken a great looking truck and turned it into a monster.