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Nitrous, why are diesel nitrous kits so expensive?

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Old 07-10-2007, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike D
I agree about the simple and inexpensive part, the title to this thread says it all...

What's the reason behind your boost setting for Hobbs?

My thinking is that the stock turbo is only reasonably efficient up to 32psi or so. I'd want the WG to open before the nitrous hits as a precaution.

JH
Old 07-10-2007, 06:41 PM
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I guess you'll see some gains in the higher gears.
Old 07-10-2007, 07:15 PM
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..which is just where I'd want it, because I can't get the boost EGTs high enough in the low gears to care about.
Old 07-10-2007, 07:59 PM
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I'll be interested to see how you like it.
Old 07-10-2007, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by paulb
I used to think the same way, but it's not only the temp of the air, but the density. If you cool the air pre CAC, then the air in the CAC is more dense (I know, stating the obvious). The more dense air charge will radiate more BTU's of heat then a less dense charge. Let me put it this way. If you have a hot bolt, which cools it faster. Air or water? At some point of temp vs density, the temp will win, but with the temp differences that we have in our trucks the density appears to be more effective.

Paul
Never mind. I disagree with the assertion in here that pre-nitrous improves density, but I don't have the time to post the long dissertation.

Hopefully someone else will take it up and post on my behalf.

jh
Old 07-11-2007, 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by HOHN
As for the bottle warmer, I can see how that's important for consistency in bracket racing or whatever, but I don't see that as a necessity in my usage. The bottle would be used for such a short time, and with lots of time between uses that a bottle warmer isn't really that necessary.
The bottle warmer is a key component in nitrous systems if you live where temps aren't a constant 97 degrees. I have run my bottle in less than opportune temps (600psi or 55F) and the results have suffered by about 125HP (making only 100HP on spray instead of 225HP). The result is wasting a bunch of nitrous at $4/lb.

bnraond.
Old 07-11-2007, 02:28 AM
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Brandon, if the pressure is that low, you're not getting much flow. You're using less nitrous. Disappointing, perhaps-- but I wouldn't call it wasteful. It's no different than a car using less gass because the throttle is closed.

Your point about cold weather is well taken. It's like trying to use a can of spray paint off the shelf of a sub-zero garage. It doesn't work too well!
Old 07-12-2007, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by paulb
I used to think the same way, but it's not only the temp of the air, but the density. If you cool the air pre CAC, then the air in the CAC is more dense (I know, stating the obvious). The more dense air charge will radiate more BTU's of heat then a less dense charge. Let me put it this way. If you have a hot bolt, which cools it faster. Air or water? At some point of temp vs density, the temp will win, but with the temp differences that we have in our trucks the density appears to be more effective.

Paul
That's a good point... wonder what the heat rejection difference is between the two scenarios using thermal equations? (like Justin, the schedule is a bit too tightly wrapped right now for a demo! )

Mike, I do tend to use the terms "air" and "nitrous" interchangably - albeit in a loose sense. They both are roughly 70% nitrogen & 28% oxygen by weight... or is that volume?
Old 07-13-2007, 06:28 AM
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The nitrous going into the CAC can't breakdown into it's two seperate parts (oxygen and nitrogen) at the temps. you quoted earlier. That's why I questioned the term extra air. The extra O2 benefited by using nitrous won't be seen until further up stream. If I had to guess, somewhere roughly around the intake valves.
Old 07-13-2007, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by HOHN
Never mind. I disagree with the assertion in here that pre-nitrous improves density, but I don't have the time to post the long dissertation.

Hopefully someone else will take it up and post on my behalf.

jh
That's too bad, Justin. I was looking forward to reading it.
Old 07-13-2007, 06:41 PM
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I should have said that I disagree that pre-CAC is better than post-CAC.

Obviously nitrous improves density due to cooling-- so the excerpt of my post quoted above is clearly wrong.

I'm still trying to reason this through and see if I can come up with the time and skill to make it happen.
Old 07-13-2007, 07:05 PM
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I knew what you what you were saying. I was using the quote more because you decided you wouldn't be able to add more to the thread due to time limitations.
Old 07-14-2007, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by HOHN
I should have said that I disagree that pre-CAC is better than post-CAC.

Obviously nitrous improves density due to cooling-- so the excerpt of my post quoted above is clearly wrong.

I'm still trying to reason this through and see if I can come up with the time and skill to make it happen.
You can disagree, but the dyno showed +6.2% Hp from post-CAC to pre-CAC. Dyno-queens REJOICE!!

bnranod.
Old 07-15-2007, 04:06 PM
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Going pre-CAC has consistantly shown a power increase...... Besides the HP gain using the same jet size we were also able to induce a larger amount of nitrous earlier and throughout the rpm range increasing HP even above this amount just the pre-CAC HP level. Depending upon the setup I have made well over 75 RWHP more this way.

Doug
Old 07-15-2007, 08:55 PM
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OK-- but what I want to know is WHY WHY WHY!!

You guys know me-- I want to understand WHY something is, not just that it is.

thanks for explaining.

Justin


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