stank97

Moved my stock plate forward, and adj. starwheel(nice smoke). I have my waste gate disconected w/28# boost @2500rpm, do not have pyro gauge yet does anyone think I can damage anything like this???

Willy91

It's possible to damage it with the plate slid forward and the starwhell turned up. I would say you should deffinently get a pyro guage ASAP.

TxDiesel007

Welcome to DTR!

Glad to see we have another member on the 12V forum aboard. For facilitating in us helping you, please put your truck in the sig line as soon as possible. Is the truck a manual or an auto? With your current setup it is easy enough to actually damage stuff without a pyrometer. As ***** 91 said, you should get that gauge as soon as possible. If you are on budget citydiesel.net has some good gauges for 200 bucks! better safe than sorry....best of luck on ur new ride....

Rick

plow

have you taken care of the KDP yet? If you haven't that needs to be done ASAP.

Eradan

Very glad i did gauges first, stock i couldn't get EGT's into the danger zone, but with my mods now ... i spend more time on my pyro than my speedo

TxDiesel007

Very good statement Plow...

I couldnt agree more with you and with Eradan, The gauges are a must anytime more fuel is added to the cummins engine, regardless of what they are 12V, 24V, 24VCR, whatever.....

If you dont know about the KDP, the brief description of it is that it is an alignment pin that is used the engines when they are being put it, it should not be removed, but tabbed to keep it in place. I fixed my KDP using a TST kit.. here is an honest writeup about it......

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...repair+TST+kit

However, aside from gauges and KDP kit, More power is always most desirable out of your truck. so the following literal disservation is just to get a little more power out of your ram. You can do serveral things, i see you need gauges, are getting gauges, GET THEM IN ASAP.... Now this is an into to the main power source of the ram, Your P7100 Pump, and what you can tweak on it for more power. You can also time it, but thats advanced, well at least for me... use this as an intro more than anything.. I tried my best to explain it.... here goes... and

I meant to say post.... sorry.....

Here is an intro the link to the pic might not work, but u can see it as banks plate in my gallery.....

to get more power out of your truck the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix.

A governers spring kit, Reffered to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow powerband from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governer arm adjustment and your plate positioning. A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100 (PM northslope for wicked work! ) and a zero plate. Piers Diesel Research and Hot Rod Diesels have them for the same price, The fuel plate... here is my explanation....

Torque plates.... ok this is a torque plate right here... https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=500&page=1

More commonly reffered to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flatt plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The one you see there is my banks plate, screwy yes, i know, i dont get it myself. that plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and u loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flatt, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real PITA to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...

Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. If you read my literal "dissertation" of a post hehehehehehe. it tells u the procedure on how to do it. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.

The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown soleniod (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those ull notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move teh shutdown soleniod out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..

When you are in there its simple adjustment, u just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. If you dont have gauges, dont set it full forward, If you do have gauges set it forward for a 30 or so rwhp increase!

Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it.PS having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS...

Which one is right for you.. id say the ten if you are not gonna be that aggressive with it, but the 100 is downright WICKED!! that be the one to go with, the zero is just too much at the low end for me but for dynos and racin, its awesome!.. The zero, PM Northslope AWESOME AWESOME WORK, and ull be helpin out a fellow DTR member, and the zero plate you can grind yourself, well you can do either or, but PM northslope do a search for plate grinding, started by gunracer1.. good instructions..

Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto.....if you are going to play hard, in most cases if you just want a modest power gain, just get a 10 plate, set it a lil bit forward, and a GSK will wake up your truck. In the stock position its easily drivable and fun as well.

Waste gate, if i was good with pictures id put one up for you, but im sure you know what the wastegate looks like, that head looking deal, it is usually hooked to a rubber or similar airline, you want a little more boost? You can get a longer hose or pinch it up, There is a thread, i dont member where tho, where it shows someone improperly blocking the wastgate with a screw.... Well that aint good.. Anyways


Best of luck and hope that this helps..

Tx

stank97

thanks for helping a newby out , i think i will order city diesel's $199 gauge and pod special, i should replace my boost gauge anyway, pulled it out of my old chevy 6.5 so it only goes to 30psi

RedRider

im glad i got my pyro, cause my intake manifold cover gasket blew and really the only reason that i knew something was wrong was because the pyro was reading about 1300, and the boost guage wasnt working too well. Got mine installed, a little pricey but the best money i spent on the truck.
-Gary

displacedtexan

That's where I got mine. Very pleased with them. Got it out quick, everything as advertized. just be aware that it does not include the wires to hook up the lights as do some places. I knew this, and didn't care, as I wanted to wire them up myself. (I enjoy doing that kind of stuff.) And they also didn't include any directions, that was a little bit annoying, but not a big deal, as it is a really easy install.

stank97

glad to here the gauges are ok , you guy's got me about half scared to drive my truck with out them, thank goodness it not my daily driver