stevesmitty

This old truck...

I need to eventually haul loads commercially. It's a flatbed.

I want more power and torque without doing anything radical to the existing (new) clutch and 5 speed.

Somewhere I read that about 275 hp is about the max on a factory type drivetrain, so...

What bombs and in what order should I anticipate doing?

1 - gauges (I'm already looking into this)
2 - torque plate (reading up on this also)
3 - exhaust (being browsing the rips site)
4 - intake (don't know which one is right for what I need)
5 - injectors (will upgrading do any good at this point?)

My thoughts are which or all of these bombs will bring me to max power and torque for loading pulling/carrying without exceeding a point where I would start to damage the tranny?

Is my order right or should I reprioritize it?

Any recommendations/changes/sources/prices are appreciated. TIA

condensr

All of that might be a bit much for the factory drivetrain.

For towing, a #10 plate, 3k GSK, exh and intake (to keep EGTs down) and timing adjustment should do you fine ..

Thats my list for my truck after extensive reading and searching. I have an auto though, so even that will be too much for my poor little 47re tranny.

masonic-dodge

steve-

Do the guages first, then a BHAF and a 4" exhaust. I would say that a 3000GSK would be a great bomb it will make the truck pull like never before

CRIS

stevesmitty

Ok, so it looks like keep the stock injectors. Great.

The BHAF and exhaust is something I definetely have in mind. Best source and price?

Torque plate. Tell me about #10. What is it?

Btw, what the heck is a 3k GSK?

LINKS...INFORMATION...arrrggghhh...must...remain.. .conscious...

(wife has that "there he goes again" look)

thanks

TxDiesel007

That torque plate alone

with the GSk will have over 300 RWHP... and 700Plus TQ... GSk is a governers spring kit, when installed it will give you a broader powerband, comparable to a 24V cummins, rather than defuel or seem to lose power at approx 2200 RPMs, you will run really strong up until about 3000 RPMS or more about 3200 max, in other words it will broaden the narrow 12 valve powerband..

Exhaust? why not straight pipe it? it will sound awesome, yet it will drone in the cab alot, which can be reduced with a resonator.. I have a banks stinger on my truck, not much louder than a stock 12V, yet more quiet than a straight piped rig..

The #10 TQ plate, i have a banks plate set back mind you, is suppossed to give you a much smoother TQ curve and make the truck run harder yet smoother and give some pretty potent results when pulling. I have the banks plate and have no basis of comparison, HOWEVER i have ridden in one with a 10 plate and you do feel a difference, perhaps better than the banks.. I like it more... yet im goin with a 100 plate... my bombing is about to begin i want 450 RWHP and 1000 RWTQ, so far im a lil short on the hp about 180 short and about 250 on the TQ... (my estimates...)

JUst for the record, i have not had any problems with the factory drivetrain, EXCEPT for the clutch.. which is why i set my plate back, the chassis, suspension, as well as the truck hold up very well.. But then again i dont abuse the truck (ver much at least...) and shes well taken care of.. thanks

Tx

halerazor

your clutch will hold that power no problem i didn't have problems with mine until i installed the injectors now i can slip it at half throttle and i have a 215 pump. don't get a bahf get a scotty or afe megacannon. i put a 4gsk in mine and it was the best mod yet it might not add power but it sure feels like it. also take it and have the timing set at 16.5*. after you get all the stuff you listed get some 370 injectors and come 191 delivery valves. besides the intake and exhaust every other mod for our trucks makes a huge difference in power you can feel.
WHERE ARE YOU FROM?

halerazor

i almost forgot KDP (killer dowel pin) its in the timing gear case get it tabbed before it falls out just search this site for kdp and you will have all your questions answered

Kyle Graham

guages
exhaust
intake
torque plate
injectors
there is the order have fun

halerazor

here the order that i would go
1)exhaust
2)intake
3)gauges
4)plate
5) timing
6)3gsk
7)dv's
8)injectors

that truck will miss if you put in injectors without dv's and you don't need gauges before you put an exhaust and intake on but if you have the money then get them

condensr

By the way, DV's = delivery valves, the things in the pump that control fuel flow to each injector.

As for the #10, it is a fuel control plate designed by a former Cummins engineer that started TST Products (http://www.tstproducts.com/). It's generally considered to be a great all-around plate for towing combined with daily driving. The drivability is great, and with the exhaust and intake mods, EGTs should stay reasonable without having to put a larger turbine housing on the turbo.

Pretty much everything you need can be had from the great vendors on this site. Check out https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...gh-Performance for links to some of the advertisers here.

Piers Diesel Research is one that I like, they have a wide selection of products and are relatively close to me, so I don't have to wait as long for the bombs to arrive!

kevellis32

Straight Pipe is key...Especially for annoying your neighbors early in the mornin. If you want to save some money you can just buy 5 feet of 3 inch piping and do it yourself or spend the extra money for a 4 inch system. I did my straight pipe and BHAF for about 60$ combined.

stevesmitty

Darn. I guess my last post didn't make it. Computers.

So...I take it I'm not too far from consensus with my line of thought. Good. Tanks for the confirmations.

First order of business is the leaky injector. Puffin a little air. Still can't get to it with standard tools, so off to a shop somewhere for a tweekin.

But, the killer dowel pin thing is worrying me. So, I want to get it checked/done first. And I'm thinking about timing at the same time. Or do I wait for final mods. If I should get it timed now, what should it be advanced to.

Finally (for this thread anyway), what should I expect to pay for the dowel pin fix and timing?

Thanks again all.

halerazor

timing will run you from $50-100 not sure about the dowel pin. getting timing would be fine on a stock truck 16.5* is what most guys set them to. what special toos do you need to tighten an injector i used a impact socket and a regular ratchet to install mine. if i lived near you i would help you out i'm sure someone on here lives in New Orleans that would help you

stevesmitty

I had a bad experience trying to get a banjo bolt back on with the fourth injector back. I couldn't get the return fuel line? lined back up to install it. Anyway the third injector is still puffin a little air and with more obstructions, I can't get it without pulling the fuel line off the top. First time messing with it so I'm a little gunshy.

Wished there was a diesel club out here so I could get some help. Thanks.

Smokee

When you are removing/tightening an injector, I suggest that you remove the entire injector line loom. that way you won't have trouble with the feed lines leaking or with cracking one of the lines.
My $.002