cedardiesel

Well I'm converting my 1st gen over to P-pump. So got a few questions. What fuel plate do I need to get and what other mods do I need to get while the pump is off the truck? What do you guys think about this fuel plate and what kind of gains can I expect and the smoke levels not really worried bout it smoking heavy down low just want it to clear up to a haze once turbo is spooled up. http://www.scheiddiesel.com/display_part/2504.php

JohnBer

there is a guy on ebay sellin fuel plates for 29.95 shipped, comes with a boost elbow, guide and instructions also. I got the 0 plate from him running it in the stock position with the afc all the way ahead and it works great, cleans up to a haze after the initial acceleration. can black out the county down low if i want to.

cedardiesel

Cool so what plate do yall recommend do I get I can't remember what pump it is weather it is the 180 or 215 but it is the pump for a manual I do know that

JohnBer

depends on what ya want, 0 plate is max fuel. you will want at least a pyrometer. fuel and boost gauges are nice to have also. if ya go that route. EGT's will go up.might be a little bit hard on your clutch too. It will wake that thing up. 3gsk is another good uprade.

strokin359

i just conv my 1gen and i dont run a plate or afc housing but i would put some springs in it while i had it off and u might want a fuel plate though i like the way mine runs with out it

cedardiesel

Ok yea I already got gauges and also I do pull trailer quite often so would that zero plate get a little toasty pullin? cause as of now i got a HX35 with 16cm2 housing but later on I will be getting a phatshaft 62/65/14

97 D-Tec

1. you probably have the 215 pump for a manual (good thing)
2. tune the afcs star wheel to your combination. in doing so you get less lag since the truck wont try to dump fuel instantly down low (which is what happens when its turnd all the way forward)
3. a 0 plate is basically telling the pump to be at max fuel as soon as you hit the loud pedal so it with a trailer and a hx imo wont be fun.
4. definetly drop in at least a 3gsk, idk if they make valve springs for 1st gens so im not going to recommend the 4 gsk

Tate

0 plate will be fine, you will just have to back out of the pedal instead of the pump doing it for you. Cut your own for free. You could do a GSK while its out, but if it were me, I'd do it after you get the truck running. Easier to trouble shoot issues when you don't have many variables.

cedardiesel

Also do I need the AFC springs that some companies offer and also how do I adjust the AFC? What do yall think about the 100 plate? What I am trying to do is have it tuned to make a good solid 350-425 hp and still be able to pull 20,000 pounds without a problem.

strokin359

I wouldn't worry about the afc springs I had them n mine and couldn't tell much diff that's why I just took mine off and u can get valve springs for a first gen

cedardiesel

Ok thanks and should I get the 4K or 3k govern springs and trying to decide between either a #100 plate or the #0 plate what will be best for towing and for playingon the wekends? Also what horsepower should I expect with that setup really would like to have solid 350-400hp.

mdavlee

If it was a manual 96 or later it's a 215. City diesel in knoxville will let you tune your own pump on a stand . I can't remember how much it costs though. I never had the time to do it. I like a 100 plate so it doesn't fuel super hard on the bottom before the turbo spools.

cedardiesel

Ok thank you is there anymore input?

Tate

If your AFC is functional, there won't be a difference between the 100 and 0, since the gov arm will contact the AFC foot before the plate. 0 plate is easier to make than a 100 plate, so that is my reccomendation. I'd get the 4k springs. You can always pull the small spring out of each fly weight to make it a 3k kit.

cedardiesel

OK thanks so what do I need to time the IP to?