How many miles are on the tranny? if not many (less than 50000) id put a torque converter and valve body in it. Then i would upgrage the fuel system with a fass or a holly mounted on the frame rail. Then get the juice with attitude or qudazilla box with commander. Then you can monitor everything and have enough power sown the road to not have to upgrade boxes again.
Oh and get a J-hook for your turbo, you'll be fine with that until you put injectors in

 

Only in late 99 and 2000 could you get the 6-speed without the HO. This was the smaller input shaft version of the NV5600 that had some failures.

The beefed up NV5600 appeared in 2001 and 2002 and was ONLY available with the "HO" engine-- not separately.

So if you see a 6-speed, it will be a HO if and only if it's a 2001 or 2002 model year. If earlier, it will not be an HO.

NV4500 with the HO engine is fiction AFAIK.

 

I was wondering how much a triple disc converter and a valve body really cost, i have an 01 auto and have never really seen the actual prices for the parts, any recomendations, im in the same boat as kc8kcg as i just got the truck and need to upgrade it, i did the power part first and now the tranny is starting to slip a bit. Thanks in advance

 

Go with a goerend bros. His stuff is awesome and he's a stud. Kinda hard to get a hold of sometimes but his stuff is top notch.

 

The truck has 94,000 on it and I imagine the tranny is still the original. What would be a good torque converter that would be good for towing and would work with an exhaust brake down the road?


Chris

 

I second the motion on gauges, especially fuel. I can pull mine down pretty good and all I have is the power puck. Fuel adder, either Fass,holley something to give more fuel cause 94, 000 miles on a 2001 the VP is your baby...$$$$. I'd go for the tranny work next, then you can wham your power adders at it.

Or get the juice with attitude monitor and you'll have guages and power in one shot.....but you'll still need something to up your fuel flow and tranny work. I bought the diablo puck and it adds 50hp, crimped off my wastegate and it builds 30 psi and has good egt's while towing. This way I have a bit more power to play with until I have money for the Fass....or I mean when I feel like spending the money for the fass. You can stack on top of the puck, I think you can add fueling modules...I think the puck does timing, maybe someone can confirm that.

Or you can just throw and edge on it, some 150hp injectors and smoke the exhaust for awhile, then the tranny, burn up the vp44 and then sell it real cheap to me!!!

 

Depending on who's you get, a triple disk converter anywhere from $1200 to $1500. A single disk, $900 to $1100. A valvebody from $400 to $600. Both will also have core refundable charges. Installation from a local shop will run ya about $400 to $800.

 

After doing some reading around I have another question. Everybody says to upgrade the fuel system, I am just a little confused. Are you upgrading the lift pump, or the pump in the tank, or adding a fuel pump somewhere in between? And how much does that usually run? Since I use this truck for work and drive in alot of moutains where there is no cell signal, I figure I will do as many preventitive measures as possible before power upgrades to avoid breakdowns from power mods.


Chris

 

The lift pumps on our trucks are notorious for failing, which in turn will damage the injection pump. The VP-44 injection pumps are sensitive to low fuel pressure and are costly to replace. The number one reason for these lift pump failures, IMO, is 1) electric fuel pumps work better as pushers, not suckers. And 2) the heat and vibration from the engines wear them out. So what to do about it you ask? There are several choices, all of which depend on how much performace goodies your done to the motor and/or how big or small your budget is. These trucks did not come from the factory with a fuel pump mounted in the fuel tank. If yours is, a dealer has done a retrofit. If this is accurate, you can either spend a grip by installing a FASS or Walbro fuel pump system on the frame, a draw straw (to eliminate the internal fuel pump) in the fuel tank and a Big Line kit. This route is probably one of the best ways to go, especially if you're planning some big power. Now if you do indeed have the in-tank dealer retrofit system and you're not really planning on to much motor upgrades, get the Vulcan Big Line kit for in-tank setups. It'll eliminate all the banjos and open up fuel flow to the VP-44. If your lift pump is not in the tank, but on the side of the engine, get Vulcans Big Line Relocation kit. It'll move the stock pump to the frame near the fuel tank, and give you larger fuel line and eliminate the banjos for better fuel flow.