View Poll Results: Should I use Studs or New Bolts?
Go with ARP Head Studs for the $400
13
81.25%
Go with New Stock Head Bolts and spend the saved money on other goodies.
3
18.75%
Voters: 16. You may not vote on this poll
New Head Bolts Strong Enough? And how much Tq?
11-11-2007, 08:19 PM
#1
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New Head Bolts Strong Enough? And how much Tq?
Well I need to replace the Head Gasket in my 97, and I've been reading and talking around and a lot of guys are saying that the new Head bolts are more than strong enough to hold 50PSI of boost with 16.5* Timing like I am running. Should I really bother with a $400 set of studs if I never plan on running over 50lbs of boost and keeping the timing I'm at? And should I over-torque the new head bolts to like 135ft-lbs, or maybe 150?
11-11-2007, 09:01 PM
#2
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Thread Starter
One more thing, I'm on a tight budget, so if I go with the studs I'm gonna have to install them myself, and I gotta find a machine shop to deck the head, which could be a major PITA. If I go without the studs I'll have someone replace the Head Gasket for me.
11-11-2007, 09:33 PM
#3
Registered User
I voted for the studs for a few reasons
1) you don't say what turbo your going to run to get 50psi of boost and your TIP will probably be the single most important factor as to HG life.
2) you don't plan on lowering your compression
3) you don't list o-rings in your plans
That said I would recommend you get the head decked and o-ringed now and put it back together with the stock bolts. If you want/need later you can run the studs in with-out pulling the head.
1) you don't say what turbo your going to run to get 50psi of boost and your TIP will probably be the single most important factor as to HG life.
2) you don't plan on lowering your compression
3) you don't list o-rings in your plans
That said I would recommend you get the head decked and o-ringed now and put it back together with the stock bolts. If you want/need later you can run the studs in with-out pulling the head.
11-12-2007, 10:10 AM
#4
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If done correctly, Bolts will be fine... Mine are at 160 ft/lbs. Keating Shelly runs stock bolts in his tube truck and makes 120+psi.
Studs are re-usable but they are not necessary. The trick to getting the bolts tight is 5 lb increments and allowing time for the bolt to cool between twists from 125-150. Use an electronic tq wrench too. Garmon did mine a few weeks back. The way I see it, I could buy about 4-5 sets of bolts for the price of 1 set of studs, and I don't plan on taking the head off nearly that often.
Studs are re-usable but they are not necessary. The trick to getting the bolts tight is 5 lb increments and allowing time for the bolt to cool between twists from 125-150. Use an electronic tq wrench too. Garmon did mine a few weeks back. The way I see it, I could buy about 4-5 sets of bolts for the price of 1 set of studs, and I don't plan on taking the head off nearly that often.
11-12-2007, 04:06 PM
#5
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Well, I'll probably run a PS62 or something similar in the future to make boost. What will O-rings cost? I like ratsun's idea about o-ringing with bolts...but what will it cost? and can I O-ring the head myself? How crucial is it to use a digital TQ wrench...all I have is a clicker type...but I just had it calibrated.
11-12-2007, 04:11 PM
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11-12-2007, 04:58 PM
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Well, I'll probably run a PS62 or something similar in the future to make boost. What will O-rings cost? I like ratsun's idea about o-ringing with bolts...but what will it cost? and can I O-ring the head myself? How crucial is it to use a digital TQ wrench...all I have is a clicker type...but I just had it calibrated.
You can get O-rings done for about $300. You can use a breakover style wrench, but be careful as you actually have to push past the target weight to make the clicky.
11-12-2007, 09:59 PM
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If done correctly, Bolts will be fine... Mine are at 160 ft/lbs. Keating Shelly runs stock bolts in his tube truck and makes 120+psi.
Studs are re-usable but they are not necessary. The trick to getting the bolts tight is 5 lb increments and allowing time for the bolt to cool between twists from 125-150. Use an electronic tq wrench too. Garmon did mine a few weeks back. The way I see it, I could buy about 4-5 sets of bolts for the price of 1 set of studs, and I don't plan on taking the head off nearly that often.
Studs are re-usable but they are not necessary. The trick to getting the bolts tight is 5 lb increments and allowing time for the bolt to cool between twists from 125-150. Use an electronic tq wrench too. Garmon did mine a few weeks back. The way I see it, I could buy about 4-5 sets of bolts for the price of 1 set of studs, and I don't plan on taking the head off nearly that often.
Finally the secret squirrel method finally comes out.
11-14-2007, 08:04 PM
#13
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I was able to hold 90psi with an o-ringed head and re-used stock bolts in twin configuration. I ran it this way for 5 months with no issues before a valve seat caused a lot of damage and unexpected expence that led to the truck going back to stock form and on to a new home.