meangreen96

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated...

Out of necessity, I need a new exhaust manifold. I was going to purchase the ATS 3 piece. At the same time I would like to install 4" exhaust (probably MBRP). All of this has prompted me to consider ordering a fuel plate. I was wondering which # fuel plate should I buy!?! I would like to avoid buying a new turbo or injectors right now. Is there any thing else I should consider getting now? Is there anything I should pay attention to.

Oh yeah, I have a 96 2500, 4X4, 5sp, ~200500 miles, K&N FIPK (something like that), boost & EGT gauges. The truck is in excellent running condition. It has a HD Napa clutch with some miles on it. I would like to avoid buying a new one.

Do I need any intake manifold like the ATS or the CFM? Also, what type of power should I expect after all this? Assuming I don't drive like a idiot, will the truck remain reliable? Should I be concerned about installing everything at once.

Thanks in advance for your help. Anybody have a favorite store?

- Craig

HOHN

Consider putting off a fuel plate unless you slide it back far enough on install to delay the power and make it a little easier to on the driveline and keeping things cool. A 10 plate is really tough to beat for all-around performance and smoothness, and you can go anywhere from mild to wild with the 10 plate depending on how it's installed.

So, IF you go with a plate, try the 10. That clutch is an unknown, and adding any power at all might take it over the edge--or not. There's no way to know.

You definitely want gauges before you consider adding a fuel plate, or even just sliding the original plate forward a bit. I'd install guages before messing with ANYTHING in the fuel pump.


Avoid the K&N filter. They don't filter well enough, and there are other filters that wil flow as much or more while actually removing dirt. My advice is avoid all oiled gauze filters in general. Try the AFE dry filters or the AEM dry filters. I'm using a Donaldson.

At the power level you have, you won't see any appreciable enhancement from an intake manifold. The Banks twinram is good for equalizing air distribution from cylinder to cylinder, but it won't really increase flow.

The truck will remain reliable. You *DID* fix the "killer dowel pin"-- right?

Do a search on KDP and get ready to read.

JH

Big Blue24

Hohn, not to attack you but everyone seems to say that K&N filters are junk. I bought mine before I had ever logged on to this site or I probably would have been convinced otherwise.

That said, I have never had any oil or dirt issues with my K&N. The turbo blades and intake tube have always been clean as a whistle. I off road some, dust, mud, snow, and sand dunes once in a while. I have never had a problem. Sand will find it's way into anything, but my intake tract has always been clean.

That said, I have cleaned countless foam and oil air filters due to my motocross riding so maybe I do it right, proper cleaning, proper oiling, occasional grease at problem joints. I have read countless posts about junky K&N air filters but mine works great for me.

HOHN

No attack taken-- you make good points.

There are many many people that have run an oiled gauze filter with good results--at least as far as they know.

But technology now allows us to have our cake and eat it too. We don't need an oiled filter to get the flow we want. We can have the flow AND high efficiency filtration.

It's almost unheard of for someone to have on air-filter relation problem. i installed a K&N on my Nissan and had no problems at all. I went to clean it after 30K miles, and found the filter laying about 3 inches below the end of my intake. I'd essentially been running filterless in WYOMING DUST for who knows how long. The nissan never skipped a beat.

But it's a huge jump to go from saying you never had a problem to saying "this filter eliminates dust ingestion for all practical purposes and flows tons of air.

It's like picking your favorite Miss USA-- true, some are definitely better than others, but they are ALL pretty good looking.

Why settle for a date with "a beauty pageant contestant" when you can have Miss Universe for the same price??

JMO

meangreen96

Alright, so fixing the KDP it is. I plan to just peen in the edges of the hole. Any reason I can't do that? I don't see the need to buy a cute little cover plate. Besides removing the radiator and heater core lines just frees up more room to work.

Agreed - the K&N isn't the greatest, but its there for right now. So it will have to do!

Yeah the gauges are already in. I think it's best to resist playing with the fuel plate until I get some baseline temperatures.

As for pushing the fuel plate forward (#10 or stock). Where is the science and control in this process? What is a good starting point for the #10? Or how far forward can I go with the stock plate. I do enjoy working on my truck, but I like driving it more. I don't want to play a guessing game with this.