Muddin_dude06

LOL, I know EXACTLY what you mean, we put my clutch in and replaced the rear main seal at the same time. Well when we put it in there we didn't put gasket maker on one edge by complete accident and after everything was back together we saw the leak the next morning. So we pulled everything back apart to fix it a day or two later lol. Me and my buddy can now leisurely change out a clutch in less than 8 hours total haha!

J Lent

The crossmember is easy....just use a porta-power or bottle jack to seperate the frame & it falls into place.

Djasik

Yea its not fun. Well I tore it apart and its back together now. The fork was in the right spot. When I went to pull the pressure plate off with the disk I forgot how heavy it was and we went to the ground quick. I was looking around and noticed a bolt on the ground, humm I had the bolts for the pressure plate on a paper towel, where did this one come from?!?! It looked like a pressure plate bolt. There were bolts laying on the ground from the old clutch and I dunno if this one was there or fell out of the new clutch. The clutch was laying on my tailgate with alot of other junk maybe it got knocked in there, I know everyone was playing with it including me. Well everything looked good, put it all back together and it goes into gear kinda! I can drive it but man its a pain to get into any gear from a dead stop. If your rolling slowly it will shift into 2nd fine. Once you have it in gear it shifts like a stock clutch, its just getting it in gear. Will this get better as it wears? Maybe I still have some weak hydraulics.

IntakeRacing

i did an 05 dodge ram 3500 6 speed tranny, he got 2 hours north and he had shifting problems (would shift fine with the truck turned off as well). he came back and asked me to change the clutch.. so i did.... got 2 hours north again and had the problems, i changed that stupid dual mass flywheel. he was happy as hell. made it near alaska and same problems came back. took it to dodge and they took the tranny out looked it over never found the problem and sold him a new truck..... moral of the story. well there is none but you could be hunting for a while! if you figure it out, let me know!!!
but i could do the clutch swap in less than 3 hours, haha.

texastuff

Check th ehydraulic's again for air, look in the resivoir for cloudy,pump the heck out of it and let it sit with the cap off, it has worked for me a couple of times

1stGen545

sounds like at first you had the disk turned wrong. I have seen it done a few times. The spring hub center will hit the flywheel and push the disk into the pressure plate and not let it relese. Slaves are good or bad no middle there is 1 seal and it will leek inside the bell if its bad (and not just a little) the master can buypass inside and not alow full stroke and not leek to the out side. if you did not disconect the line then you will not have air in the line.

Djasik

Everything looked alright, I had the disk in the right way. Talked to Kevin at Valair, he had the same problem and it was hydraulics. Im gonna get the southbend upgrade, Kevin said if new hydraulics didn't fix the problem he would send me another clutch. I know southbend is known for their customer service, the guys at valair seem to try hard also to make the customer happy. I really do love the clutch other then the poblem with it going into gear from a stop. Its almost the same as my stock clutch.

Djasik

Well I changed the hyd., went with the factory one. I wanted the SouthBend but it was 275 shipped to my house and the dealer one was 213.00. Peter was busy so I talked to another guy, he said the upgrade wouldn't put out more pressure, it was adjustable was the main thing. Well the truck goes into gear alot better now. I did notice when going into 1st the truck will move about 2 inches like its still engaged alittle. Im not to worried since the clutch only has 50 miles on it now.

lawnpro2136

i put a fe in my truck and didnt torque the pressure plate. big mistake pulled the tranny 3 times before me and peter found it. If you can pull the slave cylider and the clutch fork has no play i will bet thats your problem. make sure there is no gap inbetween the pressure plate and the flywheel other then that it will all look good if those bolts are night tight but wont work. this is because the clutch fingers wont come back all the way towards the tranny.

DodgeCowboy

Here is my question not too hi jack this thread. I am going to probably be going with a southbend con ofe in the next month I have 109 thousand on my truck should I be worried about the hydraulics on mine?

hamilton71801

I had a Mazda truck that the pilot bearing went out and it wouldn't go into gear.

Dave Miller

I just put in the SBC 13 in Con O in my 97. The trany was grinding going into gear sometimes and I figured bad clutch. It had been slipping/studdering usually only when towing especially starting out in 1st gear and was better once moving.

What I found was the clutch was oil soaked so I replaced the crank rear seal and tranny input seal (just in case). Someone mentioned my hydralics could be bad so I ordered the SBC one. I believe the hydralics was bad and causing the grinding into gear and the slipping was of course the oil on the clutch. I did notice the hydraulic resovouir was almost empty and I dion't know if it was leaking into my clutch or low due to wear on the clutch.

I have read where a weak hydraulic could work with your worn clutch/pressure plate but be too weak for the new stiffer one. If your experiencing any griding like I had replace it. Otherwise you won't know till you get in there and try it. It it was me I'd get it over with and replace it. Nice thing is its a sealed master/slave/resovouir so just put it in and forget it. No bleeding air is required since its a sealed system.