mcevins

Guys,
I finally got my truck back together and I'm too scared to try my water/ methanol injection again. The last time was Jan. 9th and the results weren't too good. My head lifted and blew the head gasket right out of the #1 cylinder. I now have a Don M. o'ringed and ported head, Don M. cam, mach 6 injectors and studs. I have my blowoff valves set at 50psi and my max boost at level 9 on my TST PM3 Comp is 62 lbs of boost. Will my water injection cause problems or should my setup hold it? My max EGT's have been running about 1350 to 1400 degrees at WOT on level 9.

Thanks,
Meacham Evins

Mike Holmen

mcevins, so what do you think of the cam and head that you installed? Rod has me talking into using the Don M head and cam. What power level you running at without the methanol? I plan to run the mach 6 injectors as well. I know your turbos push more air than mine, so I'll be down abit power. I can't wait to try the first wot blast, once the turbos are broke in. Should be a wild ride.

mcevins

Mike,
I should be somewhere around 600hp, maybe more. I feel the cam and head from Don M. are two of the best things I have done yet. I'm Mach 6's in an everyday driver with less smoke than I had with a QS B1 and Mach 3's. I ran at the 1/8th mile strip for the 1st time last week and ran 7.92 at 87 mph without my timing box and my boost running 60lbs. My temps only got to 1400 degrees. My B2 seems to start spooling hard at 20lbs of boost. The head and cam are allowing me to move a bunch of air. With my TST PM3 Comp my smoke clears almost completely at half track!

Tackett

I've been away from the boards for a while. Can somebody enlighten me about the Don M head?

Thanks,
Tackett

StakeMan

mcevins,

There is only one way to find out.

joefarmer

Drive it for a bit... you'll eventually want more.

When you stacked the EZ on there, did you think it made a big difference or just changed the engine sound? I'd be very cautious about adding meth on top of the timing box. I shredded my headgasket at roughly 62-65psi, but I believe the (new) stock bolts were the cause. Maybe Don can calculate his magic 'MEP' number and factor in the meth.

brandon.

Don M

Meach,

I am scared of meth, but a drunk truck can really move.

At least re-torque the studs carefully and let her rip. I'd hate to see you lose a gasket though.

If it blows out we will both have some work cut out for us to have it all back together by Muncie.

Heck I might have to come to Tenn to help ya out. See there is good in everything Man

Don~

BPonci

What ml nozzels are you running?What is your mixture rate?Should never exceed 50/50.Do you run a varible controller?If so what is your start pressure and your full on pressure set at?

mcevins

B Ponci,
I'm running the nozzles that Snow sent with the kit and my mixture is probably close to 60/40 water/meth.

Don,
I'm leaning toward just adding a timing box until after Muncie. Do you think it will help with my setup?

Tackett,
A Don M. head is a new RV Head that is Ported, Polished, and O'ringed by Don M. at Formula 1 Performance. Call Rod at Wildcat Diesel for details.

Stakeman,
I haven't seen you on here in a while, good to see you are back!!

Meacham Evins

Mike Holmen

Don M, I have a couple question you ya. Do you deck/shave the head to true up its surface? What do you use for guides? How wild is the cam? Do you have to cut the piston tops and use heavy springs on the valves? Thanks Don... As soon as my bank account is fattened up abit I'm calling Rod and get you to work.

Don M

Mike,

Even the new factory finish is not acceptable for a high power application IMO. We have the head recut using a CBN cutter to provide a low microinch finish to start. After this the head is hand lapped with a SSCC compound and a lapping platten that provides a finish smooth enough we feel the head could be installed without a gasket at all Not really, but its so smooth you will see zero finished marks. Only a mirror smooth finish.

The cam requires no flycuts. They also have a lobe for a lift pump, even the 24 valve versions. The bolt on gear or the press on gear style are available now and use a blank, new, semi finished cam from the factory. They are not a regrind from the stock cams. Since we start with a blank cam that has not been ground before we dont cut into the base circle and lobe further than stock. This helps two things: rocker arm geometery, and we dont cut past the factory hardening of the lobe. Cutting past the hardening dictates the cam will need to be rehardened or left to chance it will "be ok" Most factory camshafts are no more than 3mm's deep in chilled hardness. This leaves you stuck with going back to straighten the cam after you reharden. Starting from a blank you are assured you will never need to reharden or straighten it back up.


No heavy valve springs are required. The guides are stock iron. Even some of the new from Cummins valves and guides have been found to be enough out of round to warrant changing. We heat them up in an oven to check for expansion at simulated operating temps and fit the guides to the hot or expanded state. This provides a longer guide life, which the 24 valves really need help in.

As far as wanting to continue with cylinder head work...its up in the air. The time it takes to lap them alone is in the 6 hour range. Once I work the ports up, the guide work, reshapping the seats and all the other top secret changes...we end up with days of labor. It is cutting into the time we need for other projects that frankly make a better dollar amount per unit time. Im thinking if we can work in a few heads per month and slow down the frenzy I will continue. Doing three to four heads per month is not fun!

Its funny how much air you can make these things flow if you pay close attention to little details and know how pressurized airflow acts in the ports. Unlike gassers that use atmo pressure to move air into the cylinder.



Don~

Mike Holmen

Wow Don, I'm impressed. I hope that you'll find time to do a set for my truck. I know how much work that goes into a set of 440 heads that I built up a few years ago. But from what you said, you’re above what I did. I used the grinder to hog out the ports. Installed bronze guides and enlarged the seats. A lot people don't know that it’s a lot of work doing this and it’s very easy to make a mistake if your not careful.
For the cam your running the same lube separation but the overlap is increased right? You just increased the at 0.050 duration a bit on each lobe. The valve lift is similar to stock, right? I been thinking about the cam operation, the more the intake/exhaust valves are open, this should help the spool-up of the turbos and scavenge the cylinder more than stock. The lift isn't that important for a turbo engine cause there boost to push the air in. But is there any chance that you can lose boost cause of the larger overlap of the cam? I'm thinking that this isn't that big an issue when you have 60 to 70 psi of boost, and depending on the turbos set-up, this might be an improvement in air quality. Thanks for the info Don.

StakeMan

I'm always lurking in the background.