CTD_Neil

Hi guys, I want to begin installing some sound deadening material in my truck, I figure I'll be doing inside the doors, behind the rear seat, firewall, and anywhere else i can get to. What brand are you guys finding works the best? What is the best way to get the door panels off without damage? Thanks

ratsun

70sq feet of brown bread here.
Inside outer skin and outside inner skin all 4 doors / back wall below window along the floor almost to the front seats. Would have done the rest of the floor and up the firewall if I had enough but that roll was almost $300can with taxes so I figured it would have to do for awhile. Very big difference in just what I did and I would highly recomend it. You need a clip removal tool tp pull the panels, they are cheap at NAPA or the likes.

displacedtexan

I used some foil stuff I got at Home Depot. About 1/4 thick, like bubble wrap. Works pretty good. And CHEAP. I think it was around $15 a roll.

BigBlue

I've got dynamat on my roof and back wall. I'm gonna eventually sound proof the whole cab.

BarryG

I used some dynomat extreme (best price I found by far was from www.thezeb.com though that was a couple years ago). I also used brown bread. I did the inside of the outside door skin, the inside of the inside door skin and the outside of the inside door skin all four doors. The back wall 3 layers thick. The floor from the back wall up the firewall as far as I could go 2 to 3 layers(3 for sure on the pass side due to the exhaust running under there). Also put in as much as I could reach in the cowl area opening under the hood. That thing is a cave. I ended up using 36sf of dynomat extreme and 2 rolls of brown bread that I think were 70sf each. I didnt do the roof only because I didnt want to pull the headliner down though I may at some point. It does make a difference but not as much as you would think. Though the wife and I were riding in someone elses ram a few weeks ago and after we left she mentioned that our truck was definitely quieter than theirs.

The dyno extreme seemed to be of higher quality compared to the brown bread but looks may be decieving(not to mention the price is at least double). The specs are very close to each other. As far as the door panels do not do it if it is cold out you can break off the mounts for the xmas tree fasteners. Use one of those little panel puller thingys. Some will be ok to reuse but some will not so I would make sure and have some extras.

CTD_Neil

Thanks for the info.

rockwithjason

There was a thread on the TDR about a guy who used a roofing material called jiffy seal, he got it at lowe's. He applied it and then covered it with tin foil and it was cheap too.

jfpointer

GAF makes a similar product, and probably anyone else who makes shingles. It's for protecting roofs from water damage due to ice dams in the winter time. And yes, it's essentially the same thing as the soundproofing stuff mentioned above, just a lot cheaper.

I'd line my truck with it, but finding time to rip apart my whole interior for the job is not gonna happen anytime soon.

DSjockey

I'm courious about how many man hours are involved in a total tear down and reinstall of the cab interior to do all sides, how bad is dealing with the headliner?

signature600

Headliner is the easiest part...getting everything out below it where you can work on it is the hard part!

I've got about 200 sq ft of "FatMat" in my truck. Roof is 1 layer, floor and back wall is 2 layers of 1/4" stuff, and 1 layer of 1/8" stuff. Doors are 1 layer.

Made a definate difference, but I need to do better in the doors, and rear sidewall area. Also, maybe another layer on the floor, and the back part of the roof!

Chris

CTD_Neil

BigBlue, How much of a difference did you notice from doing the back wall and roof? I'm going to start with the back wall and corners since they are totally bare.

shawn085

Pulling the roof down and pulling everything else out is realy easy. Pulled everything but the dash in my truck in a couple of hous and install wasn't much longer. The roof is the easyest part the seat in mine were a bit of a pain. The front seat I had to take apart and then take out. Good idea to do if you haven't yet to look for water under the carpet. The carpet is rubber backed and you could have a lot of water under there and not know it.

67HotRod

Anyone try using rubberized undercoating?

AggieJustin

I would expect the back wall and floor in the back seat area to make some pretty big gains (especially if you're running a straight exhaust).

I finally cleaned out the back seat of my truck right before Thanksgiving and had it folded up on the way to the car wash. Definite difference in how much exhaust sound you get from the back seat area when the seat is folded up and nothing is back there, compared to being folded down (and having junk back there).