Dr. Evil

I cant help you much there. I believe most people do drill a hole on the dash but I couldnt tell you where the best place to do that is.

Do you have a 90 degree angle drill? I would imagine drilling the dash would be a whole lot easier if you took the windshield out.

barngal6

the heat shrink I have says 125*C...about 257*I
I was worried it was heat tolerant enough, but I read abou it here so I guess its ok to use

http://www.advpoly.com/Products/ShrinkTubing/FAQ.aspx

thinking about how thin the insulation is on those wires, my worries about how much heat the shrink tubing can handle was downright stupid...

I've been mulling over this point for an hour now, finally I can continue!

Doj Dewd

hole in the dash:

i drilled a hole in the dash. the location i chose was about 2-3" from the grooved section for the middle screw at the base of the windshield. there was quite a bit of room up there, i wouldn't be too worried about hitting anything.

i used a regular drill and stepped up the bit sizes. then i used a dremel tool to enlarge the hole and smooth the edges. it was time consuming but it turned out really good.

barngal6

Dog Dewd-
I did exactly what you did on the dash-worked great!
I covered the hole with duct tape and cut thru the opening to try and prevent any more dash cracking.
It was very easy to thread the boost/fuel tubings taped together from the gauge pod down -- one tubing wasn't stiff enough, and the wire hangar was way too stiff.
Then I ran wire loom down over each piece of tubing.

Then I pulled up the pyro electrical connector (that goes to the gauge) from under the dash up to the gauge pod, taped to the wire looms. Sweet.

And I managed to get both looms and the pyro wire thru a knock out in the firewall where my posi-loc wire comes thru.

As usual, I spent waaay more time thinking and fretting about it than the time it actually takes..

The velco on the pod is a great idea. I put some weather stripping along the edges as well, since the edges of the pod didn't fit evenly (afraid I'd botch it with the dremel)

Dr Evil and Doj Dewd--you guys have been invaluable. I asked the local diesel guru how much $$ to install the gauges...Since I bought my own gauges (for $300) I can't remember if he said $300 or $400 labor to install...I was in a little bit of shock. At $100/hr, that seems about right (3 hrs for a pro--plus he didn't make any money on the gauges, which he usually would)

but I took that $300 and bought power/heat towing mirrors (big grin)

I'll go to him when its time to fine tune my mods...

barngal6

What exactly do I need to buy, for tapping into the fuse box?

I'll have more questions when I get there, but I'd like to have the parts on hand...thanks

Dr. Evil

I can maybe snap a pic or two for you tonight if you want.


I prefer to use the following methods as it leaves the factory wiring in tact.

You are looking for a small Fuse tap...like this:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102780


OR an Access-a-fuse:

http://www.accessafuse.com/form.asp


OR you could use a thing like this:

http://www.totalautosupply.com/index...OD&ProdID=8071


But I would just go with the Fuse Tap. All of the above should be available at any good parts store. And whatever you buy, make sure its for "MINI" fuses.

Glad you got it figured out. Theres nothing like doing it yourself !

Dr. Evil

Ok, I just took these pics...its been awhile since I installed guages - I guess I lied to you a bit before Barngal.

I took power from Circuit 5 (Illumination) for the guage lighting. I also used an Add-a-circuit for power to the Pyrometer amplifier & tranny box (this was installed on fuse 15 - the cigarette lighter cct):





Also, the black tubing is for my boost guage

Doj Dewd

i don't think anymore needs to be said - Dr. Evil nailed it. Mine looks almost identical to his, same locations for the circuit taps too . . .

barngal6

Thanks Dr. Evil, I picked up the add a fuse cause 2 local auto parts stores on the way home from work didn't have the simple taps.
And my next question was going to be what amp the pyrometer needed...

Dr. Evil

Ok, the guage lighting cct 5 (illumination) provides lighting to the guages (its variable so the lighting will dim when you adjust the dash lighting).

And the other tap on cct 15 (cigarett lighter) - provides power (ignition on) to the Pyrometer and Transmission temp guage preamplifier boxes.


Sorry, I dont have any more pics and Im not taking it apart


I should mention that these are Isspro EV series guages.

Doj Dewd

not sure what kind of amperage the pyro needs, but i remember the isspro instructions saying just find the ignition wire (or any wire with ignition power) . cigarette lighter has ignition power so that is what i used.

also, i have my sirius sat radio hardwired for power from the the cigarette lighter as well as both amplifier boxes for the gauges. i stuck with the stock mini-fuse amp rating and haven't had a problem yet. i think it is a 20amp fuse in the slot.

Doj Dewd

i don't think the amp boxes draw much for power so i wasn't terribly concerned.

barngal6

[quote=Dr. Evil;2510553]Ok, the guage lighting cct 5 (illumination) provides lighting to the guages (its variable so the lighting will dim when you adjust the dash lighting).
And the other tap on cct 15 (cigarett lighter) - provides power (ignition on) to the Pyrometer and Transmission temp guage preamplifier boxes.

Sorry, I dont have any more pics and Im not taking it apart quote]

Thanks Dr. Evil, the pics you posted have been super!
What I meant in my last post was that you had given me an answer before I even asked, about the pyro tap.
I have all the info I need to complete the job--wish I could buy you guys a beer, or a cup of coffee

Dr. Evil

Im glad to help !

Doj Dewd

no problem. i have been in the same boat asking questions on here. i don't think it would be fair for me to only ask questions without helping others out . . .

like dr. evil - 'i'm glad to help!'