OK...I have finally saved up enough money for my next round of mods. I am going to do a clutch and head mods to get ready for my HX35/40 and HT3B twins setup. Head mods will include studs, fire rings, valve springs. I am pretty sure that I want the SB 3600 12CB double disk clutch (and upgraded input shaft) but I have also looked into the Haisley street puller. Now all of this is flexible so please throw out your ideas. I am also looking for the best shops to talk to for the goodies. I am in southern central PA so I would at least like to get the machine work done on the head within a few hours of home. The rest of the stuff can be mail ordered from anywhere. Give me your ideas and suggestions as well as what else I should do while I have the head off. I am already planning on pulling the motor as I will have the head and tranny out I might as well pull the block and paint/polish everything up. Thanks for the help!!

 

A cam would be really nice too.

 

o rings would be a lot more reliable than the fire rings. also, how much hp are you looking for? i also have the 3600 12 button clutch, but wishing i would have went with the 3850....

 

Give Doug Smith at PDW a call, goes by Jetpilot on here. He's probably the closest to you. http://www.performancedieselwarehouse.com/

 

blackdiesel...I don't know where I will stop with hp so I am open to the 3850. Are there any drawbacks to this clutch over the 3600? Do I need to upgrade my stock hydraulics (they are our of a '96 donor truck with the 5 speed)? Lets talk orings too...I have heard orings are .054" wire that presses into the stock (or otherwise) head gasket. I assume if I go this route I have to machine the head as well as the block or can I do just the head? I have heard that fire rings start at .103" and you remove the firerings from the head gasket. This allows you to get away with machining only the head. I am not particularly hard on the truck so this is the route I thought I might go. Machine only the head and if I have problems down the road step up to a thicker fire ring and machine the block to match the head. I definitely want reliable though...this is a daily driver and I tow my jeep to go 4 wheeling a lot.

I really appreciate the help!

 

You could ALWAYS spend your money on upgrades for my truck ...sorry for the lack of contribution with this post.

 

wheelin66- O-rings are only for the head, I used a modified marine gasket on my 24valve when I did it. Wire protrusion is only .010 to .020" and its placed right in the center of the gasket's firering.

 

Thank you very much JD, I did not know that. Do you know why some people say orings are more reliable than firerings? What made you decide to go with orings? Thanks for the picture too, that is the first one I have seen with the machining!

 

can you please explain me that? im

 

check with Getblown5.9, he lives in balto and just had all that work done. where in pa you from?

 

How far the wire sticks out from the bottom surface of the head.

IIRC- O-Rings are more stable, because the gasket is still there, less metal to expand/contract than with firerings. Firerings need more maintanance work. Could be wrong there, but that is my understanding, not explained real well.

 

I am located in Greencastle, PA...exit 5 on I-81 just above MD. My folks live in eastern PA and my inlaws live in western PA so I can do business in most of PA pretty easily.

displaced...thanks for the explanation.