If he decides to go with one of the turbos I recommended and if it isn't a good match I would be happy to "make it right". We really want to make all customers happy and satisfied.

Doug

 

Doug............Why are you telling the feller to not go past 16 on the timing? Whats wrong with 20-24. It works well for use.

But before enything else, install the spring kit. And to know where you're going and how you're getting there, dyno after each upgrade. You really do need a base line.

The HX35 will handle 450 HP with no trouble. It's a darn good littel turbo.

..Preston..

 

Going above 16* limits headgasket integrity. Also timing is dependant upon fueling and rpm. Some pullers are running a lot more than 20-24* but that becuase it fits their setup. For a street truck running a stock 215 pump and stock headgasket 16* is a great point. On my old truck with tons of fuel and big chargers best HP was around 28*, but that would really suck on his truck....

As for an HX35, it will make 450HP but its not useable especially at the altitudes he wants to tow at. To be able to use 400-450HP he needs a bigger turbo.

Doug

 

I tow at around 4000-5000ft, but I think I am just going to use my 2001 24 valve nv5600 for that. Its still stock. When I spoke with you Doug, I think I came to the conclusion that I would just do that, and build my 12 valve to walk away from a Duramax, I hope???? So lets go from their you guys. So what, 4k spring kit, phat shaft62/htb/or stay with hx35?? Head studs, southbend/Con fe? #10 plate, timing to 16-22? I think I am going to go with the ats 3 piece manifold. The truck does have 270k on it and if I do turbo, I might as well. The old manifold is looking pretty bad. Thanks all you guys. I think everyone has given me great advise. I think that Doug has done a great job at explaining to me why to keep timing around 15-17 though. What advantages come from 20-22 timing? I know the cons, but what are the pros??? Also, should I get a #10 plate first, then dyno? Then go turbo and spring kit? (Dyno) Thanks
Jason

 

The higher the timing the better the top end if it fits your set up. But the higher you go with the timing the more low end you will lose. 15-17 you will be fine, go with 16 and don't worry about it.

No need to spend the extra time and money for the 4KGSK on a 215 truck. You will be able to rev without defueling to 3300 which is plenty with the 3K kit.

Do the 3kgsk with the #10, and dyno then if you would like. All it is going to tell you is the hp not weather you are hapy with it or not.

No need for a duel disk clutch at 450 hp or even 500 IMO. Shaft you can get that from South Bend or EEP has a billet they are around $700.

Get the turbo if you want more power and then add more fuel along with the turbo.
Also I wouldn't waste your time with a bigger turbo housing unless you don't have the money for a bigger turbo.

Kurtis

PS Get out and start buying stuff!!!

 

Boondock. You say get the turbo if you want more power and then add more fuel along with the turbo. More fuel as in 370 injectors or different fuel plate? Thanks for the good advice.

 

Jason:

Looks like you are beginning to decide what you might want to do with your truck! Glad to hear that! IMO,......"Boondock" is giving you some good advice! As you know, I am a firm believer in not "overspending" on items you don't really need for your application and use of the truck.

You asked in your above post about the advantages/disadvantages of going up on fuel pump timing. Here are some brief "characteristics" etc. of raising your fuel pump timing:

Good characteristics of advancing the timing:

1.) Increases cylinder temperature/pressures (more power).
2.) Sometimes will increase fuel economy.
3.) Decreases exhaust temperatures.(A little)
4.) Decreases your output of hydrocarbons.

Bad characteristics of advancing the timing:

1.) Increases the amount of black smoke/particulates.
2.) Going too high can cause failure of the headgasket.
3.) Loss of low end power at higher settings.

As "Boondock" pointed out, if you go to 16 degrees, I agree that you will probably not have any problems there. With the amount of miles you have on your truck, I would be careful about going any higher Jason! On my 1996 12 vavle (see signature below) I have found that my best setting was around 23-24 degrees. After talking with Doug, (Jetpilot) I had tried the higher settings (28-30) and found I did lose alot of my bottom end power and at WOT the engine made some funny noises!! Now,....you can't compare my trucks engine to yours because I am running 14mm studs, firerings and Arias Pistons.

Hope this helps you some Jason.

--------
John_P

 

More fuel as in injectors. 370s are fine if you don't mind lots of smoke.

Also no need for head studs. You will not be boosting past 45 so the head is going to be fine.

Look in to the HTT manifold, I have heard better fit and finish easy to bolt in vs the ats. Ask about a discount also as you are a DTR member. They also sell the turbos here is the website. http://www.htturbo.com/

When I get to injectors and turbo I plan on going with the HTB2 64 or something simlar.
Lots of turbos out there just call and tell them what you have or are planning.

I would also look at upgrading the intercooler boots. Once you get into the 35psi of boost area you will blow these boots off. Piers has upgrading rupper and clamps that will hold. $220 for that. http://www.piersdiesel.com/DodgeProducts.htm

Anything else Are you going to be doing the wrenching?

 

Hello. Just a quick question. I just got off the phone with a gentleman at PDR and he told me pretty much the same info that you guys have given me. He said go with #10 plate, 4k kit, 370 injectors, b-1 turbo, of course the b-1 because he sells them, timing to 17, afe mega cannon, and guages. He said that would put me at 450hp. The thing that confuses me is that he told me my egts would go through the roof. I might have 450hp, but I can't use it. That I can't even put my foot in it for 6 or 7 seconds cause it will get to hot. What now!!!??? Don't understand.

I will call you Doug to start ordering some products. Thanks

 

dslpwr81, quick question,
have you thought of upgrading your stock turbo, I run a 60mm kit from a htt, and a slightly ported 14cm wastedgate exhaust housing and it seams to work very well for my applications, if you want to save a little money, this might be a route to consider, $200 for 60mm, and about $450 i think for the 14cm, and it does a good job of keeping things cool. Just something to take into consideration,
Tim.

 

Hello Wideopenthrottl. I have heard a few people tell me to do everything I have mentioned, except turbo, and just go to 16 cm housing. Sound like a great Idea, about $250, but I have heard from others that is still gets hot. I think I am going to try that, and if It doesn't work, I will only be out $250, not $1200 for the turbo, that might work. Or will it, because they say egts will still get hot. Thankks
Jason

 

dslpwr81,
What I've noticed with my temps is it really depends on how i take off, if i hammer it from dead stop up to 100+mph the temps get warm if i shift gears above 3000rpms but if i shift below 3k its not a problem at all, which is due to the poor flowing 12v heads i've been told, but say i'm going 65mph in fifth and punch it until its tapped into redline (3k) the truck is flying well before the temps start to climb over 1300*, just something i've noticed.
tim.

 

Thanks wideopenthrottl. I was considering getting a different head, if I really needed it. The thing is, know one has ever mentioned it to me but you. I have read the info on how it loweres egts. Heres the thing. I will buy or get anything to lower my egts, EXCEPT a set of twins. I have heard so many people tell me about the hassel of twin turbos. I do realize the positive side of it, which there are many positive sides. The price is what I don't like. Some say, well, if your going to spend the money for a head and all the other goodies, you might as well get the twins. Well, if I get the twins, I might as well get the dual clutch, a fancy ats auto tranny, or a $2000 dual disc cluth and go race or pull. I'm not ready for that yet. For now, I just want a get up and go. Thanks again and any info helps. Thanks
Jason

 

Jason:

One product I forgot to tell you about that has worked VERY well for me is the "Scotty II Air Filter System." You can go to Scotty's website here (he is a banner advertiser) to see and read about the filter system. The Scotty II will lower your EGT's dramatically!!

--------
John_P

 

Ok you guys, once again, thanks for the help. Got one more question. What mods would work for me now, that would be ok for the 400rwhp, that later on down the road I could run twins without changing my setup? I wouldn't mind adding on with the twins, just not wasting money on mods I already bought and now have to change out. I am just so undecided. I don't know if I want to go mild or WILD!!!! You guys have helped me with so much, but....
I know what I need for 400hp, well, what about 600hp, or am I just getting carried away now????

Jason