With the 215 pump you can make 400 hp pretty easy with cool egts.

I have my timing advanced, 3KGSK (this allows the engine rev past the stock 2600-2700 without defueling IMO you don't need the 4K unless you plan on sled pulling, serious racing etc... waste of money and time as you can rev to 3300 or 3400 with the 3k), and a #10 plate about 3/4 forward when I dynoed and made 350/800+. I slid the plate all the way forward and should be making 370-380 or so now. I have the stock HX-35 and at 7,000 feet can get pretty hot but at sea level you should be ok as long as you not WOT everywhere you go with a trailer. Empty while I was out east I could go wide open for about 10 seconds before hitting 1400.

I also have the stock clutch that doesn't like 4th and 5th. Upgrade that with a Con OFE if you plan to stay around 400 or 450 or the Con FE if over that. If you want to get to 400 and use it you will need at least a HX-40. High tech turbo makes some nice turbos. I have never bought anything from ATS but they seemed overpriced and like to hype things up but not sell to much such as the turbos they have.

So go with a #10 $200
3KGSK $125
South Bend OFE $1000 or a little more

If that doesn't satisfy you then upgrade your turbo to a HT 62 12 or 14 and add 370's ($300-400) and you should be at 450+.
As long as you are not hotrodding to much your input shaft will last at these hp level.

Good luck it is a lot of fun.

 

OK here is what I recommend, Go with a #10 plate, set the timing at 15*-16* (no more), keep the 215 injectors that are in your truck, go with either a 3k or 4k kit. As mentioned earlier the 3k will rev to around 3200 but still defuels early, if you go with the 4k kit the truck can continue full fuel for a longer time, ie 32-3400 rpm thats the advantage.

You will need a larger turbo to really safely use the increased HP, I would look at either a Phat Shaft or HTT turbo. Also as mentioned a new clutch will be in order for 400HP the SBC Con OFE is fine as you step up above that I really like the FE clutch.

If we can answer any questions please feel free to give us a call.

Doug Smith

 

Thanks again you guys. So far, what I have gotten from all of you guys is this:
#10 plate
3k or 4kgsk
Set Timing from 15-17
Keep 215 injectors or go to say 370
Go with south bend clutch
Output shaft will handle if I am easy on it, which I probably wouldn't be. Probably have lots of fun driving it.
HX-35 or 40 turbo
Send p7100 for calibration

Also, what about cam, or the big mouth exhaust and ats 3 piece manifold. Traction bars????

So what do you think?? What does propane, nos, or water do exactly anyway??
Also, I am just tring to understand what 800flbs feels like. Oh, with those mods, how will the old truck stand up to a stock Duramax???????????? lol lol
What else should I do. What about the 3 piece exhaust manifold, or anything else? Would I be better off swapping to a 4:10 rear end too? How much would that lower my top speed or fuel mileage? The best mileage I have ever gotten was 23.4mpg. On average I get 20-21mpg. In town, 18-19. Sorry for all of the questions too you guys. You guys are the Diesel GURUS. Not me, and I can't tell you how much I appreciate everyones h elp. I now realize that I don't know nothing about diesels. LOL Thanks
Jason

 

I wouldn't go with an HX35 or HX40.... The HX35 will be toasty with this setup and there are a lot of better turbos now available for our trucks than the HX40.

Doug

 

Thanks Doug. What other turbos would you recommend???? This sure gets confussing. lol.
Thanks

 

htb2 or a phat shaft.

www.htturbo.com or www.industrialinjection.com

i may be wrong on the spelling on the web addresses.

 

I would go with a Phat Shaft 62 or an HTT HTB2, you can look here to get a description of each: http://www.performancedieselwarehouse.com/806301.html

 

Ok figure out what hp you want?? Also how much money you have to spend. 350 you will be fine with the stock turbo. Over that and towing will put your egts pretty high.

I've heard of the shafts breaking over 425 and others lasting over 500hp.

No need for drugs or cam to make 400 or even 500 hp.

If you have 350-400 and 800 ft lbs you will eat up a new duramax. The only thing that will slow you down is the shifting.

Just get the #10 fuel plate, 3kGSK, timing to 16, and a South Bend clutch. Try that combo if it is not enough then move on to

370's injectors if you don't mind the smoke (Couple people are making EDMs for the 12V's now but they are more $$)
New shaft if you are worryed about it breaking but you might as well put that in with the clutch to keep the cost down a little.
Phat shaft turbo
And you will have 450+ 1000 ft tq

HTT makes a real nice manifold. You really don't gain much but the stock ones crack quite often after some miles.

Jason see if a member is near you and go for a ride in his or her truck to see how it feels.

 

Jason:

"Jetpilot" owns a diesel performance business in Pennsylvania and is very knowledgable with all of the products. With all due respect to him and others, I still feel that the HX-40/16 is a very good turbo for our 12 valves and they don't cost as much as some of the other ones do either. I have had one on my 2002 Dodge for over 80,000 miles now with no problems whatsoever! I also ran one on my 1996 Dodge for over 75,000 miles and it is now the top charger in my twin set-up. Give "Jetpilot" a call and see if he will send you that Phat Shaft 62 "to try before you buy."

How about it Doug,.........help the kid out!

--------
John_P

 

Hello agian you guys. Once again, another stupid question. Just wondering what makes the same #plate better from one company to the other, or intake, or turbo, or exhaust??? Is the same caliber turbo really better than anothers. Just a question. Thanks
Jason

 

As far as injectors are concerned; if you want, just keep your stock ones, and do everything else except the turbo, and then if you feel like you want more(and you will ), do the turbo, and injectors.

Eric

 

Hello Eric, why not turbo? How does the air/fuel ratio make up? With #10 with no more air comming in, will I get anyway?? I really don't know. Also to everyone else, I seriously don't know. How does the fuel plate and injectores even out? With a #10 plate letting more fuel in, how do the injectors let it all in? Or do the injectors restrict the fuel? Please explain how injectors and fuel plate work. Thanks and thanks Eric.
Jason

 

Well, you could always go ahead and do the turbo even if you keep your stock injectors, but it is not really needed as much until you go to bigger injectors. You could get by with the stock turbo; BUT if you have the $, and dont mind spending it, then by all means go ahead, and do a better turbo. The fuel plate will come with a boost elbow, and i think they wastegate your stock turbo at 32psi which is about 12psi more than stock. With only a #10 plate, and GSK you should have enough turbo to keep it fairly cool, and burn all the fuel without much problem. It might get a little warm if you are hammering on it a lot, but it will be very driveable still. With injectors, you will pretty much have to have a bigger turbo to keep it cool unless you never drive it hard. The #10 plate alone should get you to 330hp per TST's web site with the stock turbo. The stock injectors can be good for quite a bit of power over stock, so the fuel plate basically just puts them closer to the limit of how much fuel you can push through them. All the fuel plate is doing is letting the rod in the pump that basically meters how much fuel it can put out, travel farther, therfore letting the pump put out more fuel. At least this is how i see it all. Here is a link to the working of the injection pump on our trucks. It may be a little confusing, but save the link, and you will understand more how it works as you learn more about them. It will at least let you see where the plate sits and kind of what it does. Here is the link

http://www.dodgedieseldatabase.com/p-pump_cut_away.htm

Eric

 

Well here it is. I have talked to alot of you guys and this is what I have gotten. Oh, and thanks again. Is this the mods I should go with????
It seems to be

Hx-16 turbo/ or phat shaft
#10 fuel plate
Studs
3k or 4k springs
South bend clutch/single or dual disc
Different output shaft/what type and by who?
Isspro EGT/Boost Guages
370 injectors
Recalibrate p7100 pump, but to what cc's
Timing to 15 or 16

Have volant cold air intake already and 5 inch exhaust

 

I'd avoid 370s. Spray angle is wrong for your pistons, and they smoke too much. You might get better results from having some honed 215s put in.

There's info on this site on how you can grind the stock fuel plate into a "100" plate, which is like a 10 plate and 0 plate in one (10 on bottom, 0 on top). This is a lot cheaper than an aftermarket plate. Hey, if you ruin the stock plate, you can always buy a new #10 anyway, right?

Other than that, you combo looks like a good one. But I'm a 24V guy, so don't listen to me