Need help with ISSO pro gauge install
#1
Need help with ISSO pro gauge install
I'm installing ISSO pro gauges in my 99 2500 and have a few questions.
Where to install the boost bolt?
Best wire routing location from engine to gauge pillar?
Best place to tie into the wiring for gauge lighting?
Best location to drill and tap for pyrometer?
Thanks
Where to install the boost bolt?
Best wire routing location from engine to gauge pillar?
Best place to tie into the wiring for gauge lighting?
Best location to drill and tap for pyrometer?
Thanks
#2
I'm installing ISSO pro gauges in my 99 2500 and have a few questions.
Where to install the boost bolt?
Best wire routing location from engine to gauge pillar?
Best place to tie into the wiring for gauge lighting?
Best location to drill and tap for pyrometer?
Thanks
Where to install the boost bolt?
Best wire routing location from engine to gauge pillar?
Best place to tie into the wiring for gauge lighting?
Best location to drill and tap for pyrometer?
Thanks
My guages the lighting is pushed into a fuse that comes on with the headlights
Pyro should be tapped pre turbo theres a template you can print off do a search for it.
#3
#4
The boost bolt goes in the front intake bolt that is closest to the valve cover.
I routed my hoses/wires to the drivers side firewall and drilled a hole. I put a grommet in the hole and brought everything in and up the left side of the dash into the A-pillar.
Tapped into the fuse box with a fuse tap for lighting.
Drill the manifold just before the turbo flange. NOT IN THE MIDDLE!!! If you drill in the middle you will be in the divider. Drill half way to the middle on one side or the other.
I routed my hoses/wires to the drivers side firewall and drilled a hole. I put a grommet in the hole and brought everything in and up the left side of the dash into the A-pillar.
Tapped into the fuse box with a fuse tap for lighting.
Drill the manifold just before the turbo flange. NOT IN THE MIDDLE!!! If you drill in the middle you will be in the divider. Drill half way to the middle on one side or the other.
#6
Every thing else was covered except that IF you want to dim the gauge lites you should tap into an existing gauge lite wire. The one over the ash tray is the easiest. Oh I never "drill" through the firewall for small holes, it leaves a sharp edge, using a punch that's tapered and gets bigger quickly leaves a smooth edge. I have one for an impact hammer and always go from inside to outside, a 4# lump hammer works just as well.
#7
Thanks for all the info. Got most of it installed today. The back lower bolt on the Turbo is giving me a fit. I gave it a few shots of penetrating oil and I'll let it sit overnight.
Brad
Brad
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#8
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,820
Likes: 1
From: My head lays down in Murrieta, but the day light hours are spent in San Diego, Ca.
You know, some people here on this site say it's ok to drill with the turbo still mounted. You either need to grease the bit, idle the motor, and/or use a strong vacuum. Just a thought. Personally, I pulled the turbo off.
#10
if you leave the turbo on, drill it with the engine running at idle the chips will get blown back out the hole they don't actually fall into the manifold. if you don't buy it. after you get the hole drilled how ever you are going to do it. turn the engine on with nothing in the hole and feel the blow back. you'll see it does work. just my opinion from the few that I've done. the cast is super soft it hardly takes anytime to poke the hole. 1 minute tops to drill. 2 minutes to tap it to the right depth. no sweat
#11
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,820
Likes: 1
From: My head lays down in Murrieta, but the day light hours are spent in San Diego, Ca.
When you tap the hole, be sure to use some type of lubricant. You will get smoother threads and your tap will stay sharper longer. And for every turn, back the tap up 1/4 to 1/2 turn to help keep the tap cleaner. Of course you really don't have far to go.
#12
I tied the wiring for my amplifier box's and gauges into the main power wire on the back of the road. Reason I did this is because you have power that is done off the ignition switch for the amplifer boes. I also tied the lighting for the gauges off the illumination wire on the back of the radio. My amplifier boxes are mounted to the metal frame under the steering column. I tapped my exhaust with the turbo still mounted, just let the truck idle for a little bit to clear all the shavings out. I had a small magnet that I used to get the majority of my shavings out.
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