As you can see in my sig I am currently running a #11 all the way foward, however, I am experienceing VERY high EGT's (no suprise there). I am going to have to back the plate off to just a few thousandths foward of stock. I am wondering if I should go to a lower number plate to make up for the loss of moving the #11 back? If so what plate would you more knowledgeable memebers suggest? I am thinking a #10 or #8, but if I can get away with more I'll do it. I want to be able to do some 1/4 mile drags without burying the EGT gauge for most of the run. I know I have to get it timed, that's coming soon but I want to know what plate to go with. BTW I am planning on doing an injector upgrade as soon as money allows but maybe I'd be better off going bigger on the fresh air side of the turbo instead? Is the 16cm housing going to be enough? Sorry for all the questions but so far I have done alot of reading and made some good choices on my BOMBing plan but I need some guidance on the next step. Thanks to all of you on this site who helped me so far.<br><br>John<br><br>

 

I'm thinking maybe new intake/turbo. I'd cool things off before going with bigger injectors.

 

Thanks Blue, thats what I was thinking. Anyone else have some more input?<br><br>John<br><br>

 

You can add the HX40 compressor housing and wheel to cool things down or a Piers HX35 or HX40 will cool things. Do you have the 4,000 rpm governor springs and HD valve springs? If not they will move the power band higher allowing the turbo to spool better and cool things down.<br>Bruce

 

Replace your number 11 with a 10 if you watch the pyro with 1 eye. Position the 10 in the middle or back from middle. You will now have more bottom end and mid range than your 11 gave you full forward but with the advantage of reduced top end fueling to help with EGT reduction-I said help, not cure! The 8 will not defuel as much on the top end and you will have more problems. A stock clutch will usually slip with a 10 plate as this plate makes lots of torque at low RPM. ;D You should consider more air so you can properly burn the fuel as others have suggested.<br><br>Be aware, the 10 plate will eventually cause your tranny to make funny noises below 1600-1700 RPM under full power. Again, lots of low RPM torque.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I already have the 4K GSK and valve springs. I guess I'll have her timed, put in a #10 then go with a HX40 housing and wheel. I did some searching on line but I could not find just the housing and wheel. Any suggestions on where to get one? Is it just a straight swap like when I did the exhaust housing or is there more involved? When changing the wheel how do I do it without damaging anything? Will I need to change anything else whe I do it? Thanks again for everyone's help, I hate to just fire off question after question but I have a lot to learn about this end of it.

John

 

Don't go to a 18cm housing you will be getting a new problem, the turbo won't spool at the low end, get a 14cm or 16cm housing and the HX40 compressor housing and wheel. If you find a 14cm wastegated housing cheap grab-it.<br>Bruce

 

Thanks Bruce. Any recommendations on where to get a HX40 housing and wheel? I assume I'll need to get it assembled and balanced by a turbo shop.<br><br>John<br><br>

 

You can check E-Bay just don't pay over what you can get it for locally, usually about $200.-250. The parts come already ballanced from Holset. You can send it to Pius or Piers for a spin balance if your local shop doesn't have the machine. I installed the parts as the came from Holset and had no problems driving hard at over 400HP. but the spin balance is always better. DON'T FORGET THE NUT IS A LEFT HAND THREAD!! A full rebuild kit is about $80.00 more if your turbo is high milage.<br>Bruce<br>

 

The compressor upgrade kit (housing, pinwheel, and seals, gaskets) only about $200.<br><br>RaeLyn Evans<br>Mountain West Turbo &amp; Supply<br>11124 South Alta Heights Drive<br>Sandy, UT 84094<br><br>801-557-4960<br>mountainwest@softcom.net &lt;mailto:mountainwest@softcom.net&gt;<br><br> Big snap ring holds housing on, was a bit of a pain to get back on. Just wrapped a rag around the pinwheel, held it by hand. 1/4 inch rachet with socket on the shaft nut. Used a little loctite on the nut going back on.<br><br>That's it, did it all in the driveway in a couple hours. ;D<br><br><br><br>