I just got done having new o-rings installed in my head, due to a poor initial o-ring job, the gasket blew. In my case, retorque won't and didn't make a difference since the boost pressure already had blown out the head gasket. It is possible that your gasket is already trashed and retorqueing it won't make a difference. If you have boost pressure leaking past the cylinders to the outside, odds are the gasket is trashed.
Tim.

 

Thats exactly what Im worried about...is that the gasket already blew. Yeah I havent noticed a loss in boost but it does slowly lose coolant, more when I tow and really work it hard. Im about to say forget it and just run the piece of crap like it is....I have been very dissapointed with all the money I put into the head on this thing and now it does this! And yeah head was decked, magnafluxed, valve seats....whole deal except porting.

 

What does Doug say about this?

 

Well he told me a while back when I talked to him to try the retorque and see what that does. I just havent had the chance since Im at school right now, but I will over spring break.

Also, ever since I had all this done there is a running water sound that seems to be coming from back behind the glovebox area....Anybody have any clue what the heck that is?!!?

 

that's your heater core gurgling due to lack of water in the system

 

Well thats great....

 

Mine bubbles like that too!!! What's up with that?????

 

Caleb,
Don't know if I can help, but I'm on number 4 so far! Factory gasket leaked oil from the front of block first time, also showed gasket material pushed out.
No O-Ring at this time, just 12mm ARP and twins @ 50 psi. Second, I got another head decked and O-Ringed (approx. 9 thous. proud) and pulled the studs down to 125 lbs. Then 2 months later it pushed out the gasket and water, in same spot but no oil. (50 lbs boost.) Got smart this time and modified a 12 valve gasket, pulled studs to 128, ran 60 lbs and pushed water out of front but no gasket material this time. Since historically it was eating gaskets, I felt it was best to pull it and have a look again. (getting pretty good at pulling it by now, LOL!)
Seen nothing out of the ordinary. Headman came by and checked block and head, both passed inspection. I have just replaced the gasket (12V modded)
and pulled the studs to 135 lbs. She did not leak today. Lucky me!
All I know is the O-Ring blemish is probably not your problem, you would see carbon tracks. My problem started before rings anyway. I see you are using 12MM ARP with plenty of ARP moly lube. Torque sequence is a big thing and the increments torqued to for proper stretch and sealing power. Also make sure your t-stat is open before WOT. Don't know much more just yet, but I'm still digging for info. BTW it only blows when on the track, Dyno and showing my you know what! My best advice is to speak with Doug on this issue. I have spoke with him several times for different issues and he seems very knowledgeable and friendly.
Good luck,
Brian

 

Micheal at Hot Rod Diesels told me to only run stock power and low boost until atleast 4 retorques had been done but preferably 6. He recommended I run a stock plate set at full-rear or a valet switch the whole time and no other fuel mods. Told me the easier I break it in the harder it will be to pop once it was fully settled in... I trust his judgement on the matter, he has built some pretty knarly trucks...

 

did you re-torque hot or cold? I re-torqued mine hot and only once after the initial start-up. I was amazed at how much it moved when hot. Max boost is @ 45-46 lbs and I'm only running studs. My experience is that the moly lube isn't as slick as moly based grease. jmho.

 

The torques are on a warm engine that has been cooled down a few hours, I am also running a .030 over marine gasket. So do ya'll think that this gasket is shot and not just leaking? I guess I will try another torque and If it doesnt work Ill contact Doug again and see what we need to do...cant wait to buy another 200 dollar gasket! but maybe I wont have to do that. Thanks alot for the help guys....

 

just buy a 12v gasket and open up the necessary holes using a shell casing and a hammer

 

When the head got put back on did it get dropped, or slid around on the block. If so the HG could have gotten a mess up in it, and wont seal. How did you prep the head and the block before going back together with it? Did you spray any copper coating on the HG? This could not be a o ring problem at all just bad HG.

 

You know Im really not sure, I wasn't around when my mechanic put it back on. I do know he just cleaned up the block with emory cloth and brake cleaner before putting it back on. But it is possible that the gasket got messed up during installation, he did it all by his self. I hope its a gasket and not the head, or better yet just needs to be torqued again...I seriously doubt it but Im hoping!