Missing and poping after 4k gsk install! HELP plz!
#1
Missing and poping after 4k gsk install! HELP plz!
HELPI just installed a 4k gsk today...
i have done that about 4 times yet...each time it worked out fine!
but today i started it up, after everything was done, reved it up, to see some 4000 rpm, but no good results... poping and missing like crazy. it wouldnt go past 2000 rpm! it just misses and pops and shutters!!!!
i dont think ive done something wrong, since i checked it again, everything seemed right. anybody could tell me the problem???? Cant use the truck like this! Just finished the twins today! cant use them like this!
i have done that about 4 times yet...each time it worked out fine!
but today i started it up, after everything was done, reved it up, to see some 4000 rpm, but no good results... poping and missing like crazy. it wouldnt go past 2000 rpm! it just misses and pops and shutters!!!!
i dont think ive done something wrong, since i checked it again, everything seemed right. anybody could tell me the problem???? Cant use the truck like this! Just finished the twins today! cant use them like this!
#2
Is the pedal all the way to the floor to get it to go to 2k rpm's, or is it at 2k rpm's at about half pedal like it should be?? Are you sure you got the springs tight enough? Did you undo any fuel fittings of any kind? Now that i think about it; i wouldnt doubt if your shutoff solenoid isnt binding up or something. Try taking it off, and manually pulling up on the rod and starting it to see if it does the same. It may be bound up limiting fuel through the pump. Good luck with it.
Eric
Eric
#3
Originally Posted by cumminsdriver635
Did you undo any fuel fittings of any kind? Eric
I checked the fuel shut off solenoid, twas all up! i dindt disconnect anything, like fuel, or such, to change the springs!
i believe the problem must be inside the pump, at the regulators or sumthin, anybody has any opinion?
#4
Originally Posted by 12valve
WHAT DO YOU MEAN WITH THAT???
I checked the fuel shut off solenoid, twas all up! i dindt disconnect anything, like fuel, or such, to change the springs!
I checked the fuel shut off solenoid, twas all up! i dindt disconnect anything, like fuel, or such, to change the springs!
I believe what he is getting at with this is if you forgot to tighten up a banjo bolt it would give your symptoms because its leaking fuel and looseing pressure (ask me how i know ).
On a side note i'm not sure if this would cause it but is the Over-Flow valve good and working properly?
#5
Originally Posted by Weg
I believe what he is getting at with this is if you forgot to tighten up a banjo bolt it would give your symptoms because its leaking fuel and looseing pressure (ask me how i know ).
On a side note i'm not sure if this would cause it but is the Over-Flow valve good and working properly?
On a side note i'm not sure if this would cause it but is the Over-Flow valve good and working properly?
OK HOW????
what is a banjo bolt????
i thightened up the springs, so it idles like it should! (one click more, then they where!) and i dont know why it would be the overflow valve... today, before installing the gsk, it didnt pop at all!
the pedal is very sensible, it starts missing pressint it 1/4 down, and wont rev up. it gets worse, as a press the pedal all the way down!
#6
what is a banjo bolt????
and i dont know why it would be the overflow valve
Now how you say it wouldn't do it before but it does it now has to imply that its a cause from something you did. Did you install studs when you finished your twins? (IE on my 94 when i had to install the studs i had to remove all the fuel and return lines to get to some of them) if you did make sure all the lines are tight. If you forget to tighten one of the return lines down it will start to miss and smoke right around 2,000 RPM (again, dont ask me how i know lol )
Hope this helps,
Weg
#7
Did you install studs when you finished your twins? (IE on my 94 when i had to install the studs i had to remove all the fuel and return lines to get to some of them)
[/QUOTE]
i didnt do studs yet. i didnt do anything but remove the gsk plug! and replace the springs!
so how much boost can i make, with the stock head and stock studs and stock head gasket? whats the most important thing that has to be tone after twins?? i make 45 psi now watching it, it's go over it! i know., need a w/g
thanks weg!
[/QUOTE]
i didnt do studs yet. i didnt do anything but remove the gsk plug! and replace the springs!
so how much boost can i make, with the stock head and stock studs and stock head gasket? whats the most important thing that has to be tone after twins?? i make 45 psi now watching it, it's go over it! i know., need a w/g
thanks weg!
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#8
12valve,
I am not sure beyond this point on what would be causeing your missing at 2k RPM at this point. Maybe a more knowledgeable person will jump in.
As to how much boost you can make, that is a highly disputed Topic i wouldn't push it above 40 psi very much with OEM gasket,studs. I would either get a waste gate on it or get some studs installed.
Weg.
I am not sure beyond this point on what would be causeing your missing at 2k RPM at this point. Maybe a more knowledgeable person will jump in.
As to how much boost you can make, that is a highly disputed Topic i wouldn't push it above 40 psi very much with OEM gasket,studs. I would either get a waste gate on it or get some studs installed.
Weg.
#11
Originally Posted by pullmaxdude
4k gsk: You should be investing in studs and valve springs. From what I see it looks like you will be needing more fuel. ie; injectors and delivery valves.
studs will be needed for boost for the twins and valve springs if you are gonna run the truck that hard. BUT if he has the 1998 and its a manual, he has the 215 pump, no delivery valves are needed, but i do agree on the 370 or larger injectors..
now what can cause the sputtering, heck i dunno, i was gonna guess as to the pump timing maybe? has it slipped that bad? but i dont know.. im learnin myself as we go...
Tx
#12
/QUOTE]
so how much boost can i make, with the stock head and stock studs and stock head gasket? whats the most important thing that has to be tone after twins?? i make 45 psi now watching it, it's go over it! i know., need a w/g
![/QUOTE]
your stock head gasket is good to only about 50 PSI or so,
if you are gonna play and play hard with that truck, i agree with everyone on here,head studs, valve springs, retainers, a wastegate, and head work are all needed to safely ensure your toy will survive. best of luck and i hope u get ur issues solved..
Tx
so how much boost can i make, with the stock head and stock studs and stock head gasket? whats the most important thing that has to be tone after twins?? i make 45 psi now watching it, it's go over it! i know., need a w/g
![/QUOTE]
your stock head gasket is good to only about 50 PSI or so,
if you are gonna play and play hard with that truck, i agree with everyone on here,head studs, valve springs, retainers, a wastegate, and head work are all needed to safely ensure your toy will survive. best of luck and i hope u get ur issues solved..
Tx
#13
Originally Posted by cumminsdriver635
Sorry for trying to help. If you dont want ideas for help, then dont post the topic.
of course i want any help! as very soon as possible, Ill try any possible solution! you asked if it does that whith the pedal half way down... YES. thats where it starts. it doesnt matter where the pedal is, its fine only at idle, once the engine reves up, it starts shuttering at about 1500 rpm. i loosened up and checked the fuel shut off solenoid. Its fine, i even played around with it but it stayed the same...
If no help here. ill have to install the good 215 pump, lying on the table beside the truck and take this one out as a 215 pump that doesnt work
mecaniks here around dont have a clue about probs with p-7100 pumps!!!
any help at DTR????
#14
[[/QUOTE]your stock head gasket is good to only about 50 PSI or so,
if you are gonna play and play hard with that truck, i agree with everyone on here,head studs, valve springs, retainers, a wastegate, and head work are all needed to safely ensure your toy will survive. best of luck and i hope u get ur issues solved..
Tx[/QUOTE]
how?! i live in mexico and where do they do head work?! they have no clue, once things arent stock! does it need special machines? or with what and how is it done. i thought bout buying the equipment for it!
or how about head gaskets, arent there better ones to support more, without oring?
if you are gonna play and play hard with that truck, i agree with everyone on here,head studs, valve springs, retainers, a wastegate, and head work are all needed to safely ensure your toy will survive. best of luck and i hope u get ur issues solved..
Tx[/QUOTE]
how?! i live in mexico and where do they do head work?! they have no clue, once things arent stock! does it need special machines? or with what and how is it done. i thought bout buying the equipment for it!
or how about head gaskets, arent there better ones to support more, without oring?
#15
You can send off your head to PDR
or any other reputable diesel shop and they will work on it for you. U live in mexico, i gotta ask, HOW IN THE HECK do you legalize a diesel in mexico for mexican plates? from what i hear it has been tough in past years, they call them camiones so to say and u cannot legalize them. aside from that though. Special machines? yes i assume and know you need that to work on your heads, u must have a big bank account to afford the mill they use to do it, it is pricey... Head gaskets, you can use a marine head gasket, it is thicker and it is stronger, O ringing you head is probably still a really good idea, i would do it just to stay on the safe side.
Tx
or any other reputable diesel shop and they will work on it for you. U live in mexico, i gotta ask, HOW IN THE HECK do you legalize a diesel in mexico for mexican plates? from what i hear it has been tough in past years, they call them camiones so to say and u cannot legalize them. aside from that though. Special machines? yes i assume and know you need that to work on your heads, u must have a big bank account to afford the mill they use to do it, it is pricey... Head gaskets, you can use a marine head gasket, it is thicker and it is stronger, O ringing you head is probably still a really good idea, i would do it just to stay on the safe side.
Tx