CTD2001

My friend purchased a 96 cc 4x4 5spd CTD and he wants to up the power on it. I think his truck has the p7100 injector pump, but i am not 100% sure about this, correct me if i am wrong. I know a little about the 12v but not a whole lot. He got a pyro and boost gauge in the truck and it is straight piped. He is buying a BHAF tomorrow, probably from napa. What other parts does he need beside the filter to connect it to the stock intake tubing. My other questions is how do we move his fuel plate forward and adjust his starwheel? He says that he wants a little bit of smoke. I know, I know, he is new to this and he loves watching the smoke, he is always wanting me to blow some smoke with my truck when he is in it. Anyways any advice for adjusting his stock fuel plate and starwheel would be great, thanks for the help, sorry about the long post.

Lary Ellis (Top)

I drive a 96 I ordered new back in late 95....I love that truck so much I just haven't been able to build the nerve to Divorce her and get a new one

I put a hybrid hx 35/40 on mine and a fuel plate from TST adding 102 hp according to the dyno and a sweet tranny from ATS to put it to the ground.

It completely changed that trucks attitude...didn't hurt mine too much either

With a little effort and some money, he can completely change the way that truck runs and worth every penny of it

I know some guys like having 24 valves, but when a 12 valve runs right, they are hard to beat ! My grandson is going on 5 and he already has laid claim to this one...smart kid

crossy

Back when I had my 95 I added the #6 plate and and 3K governor kit. both items together were appx $225. talk about bang for the buck, WOW!!! he'll get smoke w/o touching the starwheel. I dont think my 05 will ever run like that, especially not for the $225 i spent. EGT's were very reasonable. DAVE

CTD2001

thanks for the replies, I have talked to him about the different fuel plates the gov kit and how that will really wake his truck up more then just messing with the stock plate and starwheel. I told him for about three hundred buck he could really wake up that beast. He ordered a BHAF from napa, does he need anything special to make it adapt to his stock intake tube? Thanks for the help

Willy91

Nothing else needed for the BHAF just hook it up to the stock intake tubing. The plate and the GSK will do wonders for the truck. That's where we were going to stop until that darn Bobming bug took it's grip.

berner

The BHAF just slips inside the stock tube. Make sure to check the clamp fairly often for the first few days as they sometimes work loose and fall off. Some guys are putting a short piece of pipe inside the filter so the clamp tightens up better.

A fuel plate/GSK combo will make the world of difference. Research it a bit as to what plate the stock clutch can handle. Being an auto guy, I can't give any recomendations other than a #10 will probably cook the clutch. I'm sure other people will chime in.

CTD2001

Thanks for the info on the BHAF. Does anyone know how or have a link to sliding the stock fueling plate forward and adjust the starweel temporarily before he buys an aftermarket plate and Gov kit?

TxDiesel007

Hello CTD 2001

THIS is just to get a little more power out of your ram. You can do serveral things, i see you are getting gauges, and you have an air intake on the way. which is good. Now this is an into to the main power source of the ram, Your P7100 Pump, and what you can tweak on it for more power. You can also time it, but thats advanced, well at least for me... use this as an intro more than anything.. I tried my best to explain it.... here goes... and

I meant to say post.... sorry.....

Here is an intro the link to the pic might not work, but u can see it as banks plate in my gallery.....

to get more power out of your truck the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix.

A governers spring kit, Reffered to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow powerband from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governer arm adjustment and your plate positioning. A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100 (PM northslope for wicked work! ) and a zero plate. Piers Diesel Research and Hot Rod Diesels have them for the same price, The fuel plate... here is my explanation....

Torque plates.... ok this is a torque plate right here... https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=500&page=1

More commonly reffered to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flatt plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The one you see there is my banks plate, screwy yes, i know, i dont get it myself. that plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and u loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flatt, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real PITA to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...

Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. If you read my literal "dissertation" of a post hehehehehehe. it tells u the procedure on how to do it. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.

The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown soleniod (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those ull notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move teh shutdown soleniod out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..

When you are in there its simple adjustment, u just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. If you dont have gauges, dont set it full forward, If you do have gauges set it forward for a 30 or so rwhp increase!

Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it.PS having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS...

Which one is right for you.. id say the ten if you are not gonna be that aggressive with it, but the 100 is downright WICKED!! that be the one to go with, the zero is just too much at the low end for me but for dynos and racin, its awesome!.. The zero, PM Northslope AWESOME AWESOME WORK, and ull be helpin out a fellow DTR member, and the zero plate you can grind yourself, well you can do either or, but PM northslope do a search for plate grinding, started by gunracer1.. good instructions..

Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto.....if you are going to play hard, in most cases if you just want a modest power gain, just get a 10 plate, set it a lil bit forward, and a GSK will wake up your truck. In the stock position its easily drivable and fun as well.

Waste gate, if i was good with pictures id put one up for you, but im sure you know what the wastegate looks like, that head looking deal, it is usually hooked to a rubber or similar airline, you want a little more boost? You can get a longer hose or pinch it up, There is a thread, i dont member where tho, where it shows someone improperly blocking the wastgate with a screw.... Well that aint good.. Anyways

Also make sure you get the KDP done on that truck as well... Not hard to do, look in my previous posts, KDP Report Using TST kit, or somethin similar to that......

PS this is cut and paste of other posts, sorry if its redundant....

Best of luck and hope that this helps..

Tx

Willy91

Once again very good info, keep it up tx.

CTD2001

thank you for the reply

TxDiesel007

Thank you fellas!

Anytime, im here to help and share what ive learned...

Rick

CTD2001

well my friend and i are planning to play with his pump tomorrow, moving the plate full forward and adjusting the starwheel a little bit. I have read some directions from TST about how to do the procedure. From what i have read, it looks like it is a pretty involved job. Is the job really that bad? We dont want to damage any thing on the pump. It seems like it is common thing to do to these pumps and that guys do it all the time, but this being our first time, are there any tips or pointers that we should know about? Thanks again for your time

TxDiesel007

Ima put it to u like this...

My mechanic skills, and cooking are one in the same level, I can read and follow directions, and get the job done.... In all honesty, what i typed above is the way i did it, and No there is nothing hard about doing it... Here is an even simpler way to do this kinda thing...

To adjust a fuel plate... and starwheel.....



1) Remove the grid heater intake, (four bolts of a 10 mm socket) as well as the oil holding tab again a 10 mm socket. Also remove the other two 10 mm bolts that hold the air intake hat in place. You will remove a total of six 10 mm bolts. BE SURE that you put them back as they go, some are longer than others.

2) Loosen up the clamps at the intake horn (7/16 i believe) so that you can remove or at least position the intake out of the way.

3) Once you remove the clamps or are able to position the intake hatt out of the way, you will see your AFC housing and a Hex shaped plug which is a 5/16 or an 8mm hex works as well, mind you if im not mistake. You adjust the starwheel under that plug.. Remove it using the hex socket of either size and it might be a little tight, so dont be afraid to whack the tarr outta it if it needs it. and you will see the starwheel under it. You can loosen or tighten the spring with any flatt screwdriver. Loosen the spring by turning the starwheel up which will give you more smoke and better lower end fueling. If you tighten it, u can expect the inverse......

4) Ok now you have your starwheel adjusted to what you wanted. You can put back that hex plug and you will see the four screws that im talking about in my original long post. The upper left hand one lookin down from the driverside is the breakoff screw. I dont have a screw there anymore so u dont need it.

5) The breakoff screw can be removed with a hammer and a good screwdriver. ADVICE..... If you want more leverage, put a good pair of vice grips on the screwdriver and bang that sucker into the metal screw. The screws are soft so it will go in easy. Rather than twist the screwdriver with your wrist, you can now utilize the full potential of your arm and bicep which will give you better leverage and the advantage of getting that screw out...

6) Once you have gotten that pesky screw off, you can then focus on the other ones and then finally you can pull off the AFC housing completely off. you can start by removing the bottom two afterwards, those are 8mm sockets, and then there is one that is behind the fuel shutdown soleniod, again and 8 mm socket. These can be tricky to do the first time around because you will notice when you do, that the solenoid is spring loaded. Remove the two 8mm socket screws and you will notice that they kinda start to spring up if you removed the other top two prior (IE break off and other screw above the solenoid) and then u can remove the other screw behind the bracket to fully remove The AFC. Next you remove the remaing either flatt or 8mm screw and finally you can remove the 1/2 inch bolt that holds i believe the boost fitting to the AFC, then you can pull it out completely..... BE CAREFUL!! it has its way of coming out... dont just attempt to yank it out, just tinker around towards and away from front of engine till it comes out...

7) If you look down into the AFC housing after it is aside or removed you will see the two screws that hold down the Fuel plate. Remove those screws, AGAIN if this is a stock truck they will be tight, and go ahead and remove the plate, and install the new one in the desired position. I reccomend stock if your drivetrain is stock.. BUT if you want, you can put it full forward for a 30 or so RWHP increase, or if your plate is a 10, it will act like an 8 if it is full forward..... once you get it in the desired position put back the screws and tighten up.

8) Once you have your plate installed. you have to get the solenoid back on where it goes, then put the AFC back over it.

9) The solenoid can be a tricky one, Put the solenoid back and try and get one of the 8mm screws on there as soon as you can line it up. If you have a buddy with you, this helps immensly! have him hold it down and get the AFC back on and put one screw in at least to hold it all in place and you are set. IT IS NOT hard to do even by yourself. But for a first time it will help to have a second set of hands...

10) once you have gotten the AFC back on, you can put back the boost fitting, and then reassemble the intake hatt the way it goes. MAKE SURE THO... to tighten up the 7/16 clamps when you put the intake hatt the way it goes, and that you put the screws in the exact same place that you got them out of. (10mm socket) If you dont tighten up the 7/16 clamp. U will get a possible boost leak.

11) Everything should be back together and fine... Now make sure u left no loose ends, collect up your tools, take the truck for a test drive and enjoy...


If my other posts dont help.. I sure hope that this one does......

Lemme know if u have any questions

Respectfully

Rick

CTD2001

awesome!!!! You the man, thanks again

CTD2001

Well my buddy and i moved his stock fuel plate forward and adjusted his starwheel thanks to the help of all you guys on here. It was a very easy job, much easier then i thought i would be. There was a very noticable power difference between the plate in the stock position vs it being all the way forward, i was impressed that this mild enhancement was free. Hes got the smoke that he wanted, but he is already saying he wants to buy an aftermarket plate and the 3k gov kit. Again thanks for your help