Mechanical fuel pressure gauge
11-26-2004, 05:18 AM
#16
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Originally posted by Kyle Graham
the only problem with not having a isolator and rigging up a needle valve ball valve if you spring a leak in your cab while bombing down the freeway at 70 mph how long is it gonna take to shut down your engine safely diesel leaking from behind an a-pillar or all over your carpet makes a pretty undesirable mess not to mention the smell
the only problem with not having a isolator and rigging up a needle valve ball valve if you spring a leak in your cab while bombing down the freeway at 70 mph how long is it gonna take to shut down your engine safely diesel leaking from behind an a-pillar or all over your carpet makes a pretty undesirable mess not to mention the smell
The barely opened valve will also dampen any pulsations and buzzing.
11-26-2004, 07:22 AM
#17
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Originally posted by infidel
If you install a needle valve at the head of the line and run it barely cracked open any leak will be nothing more than a slow drip. It takes a very small path for the gauge since there is no flow, just a change in pressure.
The barely opened valve will also dampen any pulsations and buzzing.
If you install a needle valve at the head of the line and run it barely cracked open any leak will be nothing more than a slow drip. It takes a very small path for the gauge since there is no flow, just a change in pressure.
The barely opened valve will also dampen any pulsations and buzzing.
11-26-2004, 07:17 PM
#18
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Dr, I use 1/8" plastic boost tubing and push it though an outer protective sheath of 1/4" tubing to prevent chafing, cuts and kinks.
SS looks nice but is an overkill and hard to work with.
My Cat D7 even uses 1/8" plastic line for the fp gauge, think it does a lot more shaken' than a Dodge!
Never a leak on my own rigs for over seven years. Done dozens like this for others without one complaint.
When using plastic tubing with compression type fittings the most common cause of leaks is from overtightening the compression nut. Finger tight plus one turn with a wrench is plenty.
SS looks nice but is an overkill and hard to work with.
My Cat D7 even uses 1/8" plastic line for the fp gauge, think it does a lot more shaken' than a Dodge!
Never a leak on my own rigs for over seven years. Done dozens like this for others without one complaint.
When using plastic tubing with compression type fittings the most common cause of leaks is from overtightening the compression nut. Finger tight plus one turn with a wrench is plenty.
11-26-2004, 08:56 PM
#19
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Originally posted by infidel
Dr, I use 1/8" plastic boost tubing and push it though an outer protective sheath of 1/4" tubing to prevent chafing, cuts and kinks.
SS looks nice but is an overkill and hard to work with.
My Cat D7 even uses 1/8" plastic line for the fp gauge, think it does a lot more shaken' than a Dodge!
Never a leak on my own rigs for over seven years. Done dozens like this for others without one complaint.
When using plastic tubing with compression type fittings the most common cause of leaks is from overtightening the compression nut. Finger tight plus one turn with a wrench is plenty.
Dr, I use 1/8" plastic boost tubing and push it though an outer protective sheath of 1/4" tubing to prevent chafing, cuts and kinks.
SS looks nice but is an overkill and hard to work with.
My Cat D7 even uses 1/8" plastic line for the fp gauge, think it does a lot more shaken' than a Dodge!
Never a leak on my own rigs for over seven years. Done dozens like this for others without one complaint.
When using plastic tubing with compression type fittings the most common cause of leaks is from overtightening the compression nut. Finger tight plus one turn with a wrench is plenty.
11-26-2004, 10:01 PM
#20
Registered User
Originally posted by Dr. Evil
Bill, what size and type of of line do you use - regular 1/8" line, or 1/4" braided S.S.? I would think 1/8" line would give a quicker and better measurement but I havent been able to find any S.S. or hydraulic line in 1/8".
Bill, what size and type of of line do you use - regular 1/8" line, or 1/4" braided S.S.? I would think 1/8" line would give a quicker and better measurement but I havent been able to find any S.S. or hydraulic line in 1/8".
For gage action it does not matter how large the line is. On air it would, but no with hydraulics, unless you can figure how to compress diesel fuel. That is why you get the rattle, it is direct from the injection pump.
Someone needs to experiment with orface size, I may do that. Figure the right size, which would be very small and then just fill the fitting with brass and run a small drill through it, would do the same thing.
Evil, if that is brake line it is rated for fuel, or oil, or air, whatever. Used that stuff all over the big trucks. Only reason I used the stainless is because it came with the gage.
11-27-2004, 01:51 AM
#22
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I put in a mechanical guage that I can see from the drivers seat but it is outside, so no worries about leaking in the cab. I just ran the braided line through a ring I mounted under the hood, and it sits just behind the hood under the windsheild wiper. just make sure to leave enough extra hose so it doesnt pull when you open the hood. I can see it while I drive and it doesn't interfear with anything.
11-27-2004, 06:45 AM
#23
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Originally posted by Haulin_in_Dixie
........Someone needs to experiment with orface size, I may do that. Figure the right size, which would be very small and then just fill the fitting with brass and run a small drill through it, would do the same thing..........
........Someone needs to experiment with orface size, I may do that. Figure the right size, which would be very small and then just fill the fitting with brass and run a small drill through it, would do the same thing..........
11-27-2004, 08:04 AM
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Originally posted by 99 cummins
I put in a mechanical guage that I can see from the drivers seat but it is outside, so no worries about leaking in the cab. I just ran the braided line through a ring I mounted under the hood, and it sits just behind the hood under the windsheild wiper. just make sure to leave enough extra hose so it doesnt pull when you open the hood. I can see it while I drive and it doesn't interfear with anything.
I put in a mechanical guage that I can see from the drivers seat but it is outside, so no worries about leaking in the cab. I just ran the braided line through a ring I mounted under the hood, and it sits just behind the hood under the windsheild wiper. just make sure to leave enough extra hose so it doesnt pull when you open the hood. I can see it while I drive and it doesn't interfear with anything.
11-27-2004, 08:46 AM
#25
Registered User
If you've ever seen the fp gauge adaptor TST sells that screws into the bleed screw location it will give you an idea how small the orifice needs to be.
It's just a bit larger than a human hair. Don't know about others but I'd have trouble drilling a hole that small. Have a feeling it's done with a laser.
It's just a bit larger than a human hair. Don't know about others but I'd have trouble drilling a hole that small. Have a feeling it's done with a laser.
11-27-2004, 11:25 AM
#26
Registered User
Bill, Ed and others
Thought my expirience yesterday might be of interest, since discussing how big of an orifice is required.
See here... https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...threadid=55488
RJ
See here... https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...threadid=55488
RJ
11-28-2004, 10:17 AM
#27
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I use 1/8 plastic air line with compression fittings,no isolator,dash mounted gauge,screwed the other end on the test port of the injection pump,no sound,steady as a rock. 2001.5 Cummins 4WD,Quad,sb, auto, DSS Steering Bracket, Solidsteels new Track-bar bracket with 2003 track-bar, Espar,solinoid operated high idle, oil pressure switch to cut out intake heaters,sound deadening under hood and in cab(lead sheeting), running fanless Oct. to May. mod to make fog lites stay on with brite or dims, replaced the 9004s bulbs with 9007s,made a world of difference.
12-27-2004, 08:53 AM
#28
Chapter President
The needle on my ISSPRO EV started bouncing some a week or so ago. A couple of days ago, it started to "rattle". Really loud. Is this caused by the colder weather or a bad gage or ????
It's attached to the filter housing on the post filter side with a needle valve. Very similar to Shovelheads.
It's attached to the filter housing on the post filter side with a needle valve. Very similar to Shovelheads.
12-27-2004, 10:03 AM
#30
Top's Younger Twin
Originally posted by 99 cummins
I put in a mechanical guage that I can see from the drivers seat but it is outside, so no worries about leaking in the cab. I just ran the braided line through a ring I mounted under the hood, and it sits just behind the hood under the windsheild wiper. just make sure to leave enough extra hose so it doesnt pull when you open the hood. I can see it while I drive and it doesn't interfear with anything.
I put in a mechanical guage that I can see from the drivers seat but it is outside, so no worries about leaking in the cab. I just ran the braided line through a ring I mounted under the hood, and it sits just behind the hood under the windsheild wiper. just make sure to leave enough extra hose so it doesnt pull when you open the hood. I can see it while I drive and it doesn't interfear with anything.
I am looking at putting a couple of gauges outboard on my SHAKER hood!
Some folks were saying that condensation and weather will kill the guages.
So far the one that is out there for testing has no moisture on the glass, has seen -34 to plus 85 and works fine.
Glad to see someone else is doing something like this.
