dctoner

Blizz, Having the schrader valve is a nessesity. The LP's put out a pulse and the schrader valve prevents the full force of the pulse to hit the gauge. The common rail trucks have an even stronger pulse that has caused some problems with mech gauges. Diesel Manor ( the link above) also sells a snubber to limit these pulses from killing the gauges. the valve is only a couple of bucks.

I tried polly tubing first for my gauge and ended up with diesel leaking in my cab. I changed everything over to fuel hose with hose barb fittings and hose clamps. similar to how the FASS is installed. Works great.

vj_M

ok, I think iam going to go with the schrader valve however i don't understand how this would work on there i know it shuts the fuel off when there is no pressure but wounldn't the highest pressure be on the gauge side and be stuck there..? like how will it relive it's self.? Where can you get on of these at? Crappy Tire maybe.?

VJ https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=0&forumid=89#
Confused

P.J

There is some confusion here........................

The schrader is only a connection point for your hose. You will still need a brass "needle" valve inline. These can be picked up at most local hardware stores with the associated brass nipples/fitings.

qwest

There ia a flare fitting that will fit the schrader,
ACE, look for a very short piece of copper tube(1/2)
with a female flare on each end, get an adapter, flare
to 1/8" compression. use 1/8" copper tubing.
at gage, also 1/8 compression adapter to gage.

leave tubing long, loops keep vibration done,
Small tubing will keep pressure fluctuations down,
If not, squeze tubing for restriction.

Use hose over copper tubing through firewall and up to gage to keep noise out. Don't forget to bleed gage line.

vj_M

Sorry, I must be dumb iam still not following here... I understand now that the schrader valve id for the hose i have that takin' right out, and my hose goes in there with the banjo bolt fitting on the end. but i still don't understand how that needle valve works., wouldn't the highest pressure be stuck on the gauge side and the gauge be reading the pressure thats in the hose on that side of the gauge.?
Do you have a pic of the needle valve..? sorry for the hassle here...Newbie
thanks
VJ

dctoner

here is a pic of the needle valve, sorry had schrader on the brain, M x F Pipe

http://www.brasscatalog.com/catalog_...ngsandmore.com

vj_M

link don't work

dctoner

Try it now.

vj_M

Ohhhhhhh, so just like a valve you can shut off manually under the hood or where ever..? Right.?

dctoner

Right, I just crack my valve enough to let enough pressure through to let the gauge work, with such a small opening for the pressure to go through help eliminate the pulsing. Don't worry about bleeding the air out of the line, pressure is pressure. I learned this the hard way after spilling diesel in the cab

vj_M

Ok, i got it now. Ya, i got anit-freeze in there yesterday trying to fill the line up (Without ANY AIR bubbles!) using the Issolator i have ..... that sucks! that was a long prosess and got me No wheres! well, thanks for clearing that up for me i didn't know what you guys were talking about..Needle valves.. LoL thats just a manual valve to me..
I'll look into that today
thanks
VJ
Great fourm by the way lots of info... and fast respondses! thanks to everyone

dodgeguy71

Air in the lines is a problem, gave me fits when doing my gauges. Air in the anti-freeze side caused the gauge to react slowly, read up to 20 psi. Got the air out and started truck, gauge went to 20 and by the time I got to work the next day the needle was sitting on the peg around 30psi. Used the bleed screw on the isolator to bleed the air out of the hose from the vp to the isolator and gauge is working perfectly. Basic hydraulics, you can't compress a liquid, but you can compress air. So if you think about it, if air were in your lines it would have a resistance from the gauge and pressure from the isolator, the air would compress causing erratic readings. Better to have liquid no air pockets in either hose. Think about coolant in a engine....on top of the piston, it comes up and bam!!! engine stops, just hydraulics.

vj_M

i don't have a bleed screw on my Issolator... Can I just crack the nut on the anti frezze hose on the issolator when there is pressure on it..
It now shows 5psi on the gauge today it is slowly going up everyday.. when i shut the truck off it drops back down on the little peg on 0psi .

dctoner

vj_M,

I have installed just my gauge without an isolator in it so if you plan to use the isolator air may be a factor, but with out one, air was not a factor for me.

Just wanted to clear that up, I called ISSPRO about how I was setting my gauge up and they told me air was no big deal with running diesel all the way to the gauge. I'm in no way a pro at any of this, just shared what has worked for me. Take if for what it is worth.

dodgeguy71

You could crack the line loose on the fuel side of the isolator to bleed air there. Getting the air out of the antifreeze side was a trick. I had a vacuum pump, at work....hand held....no not a wheenie pump....I thought I could rig it like bleeding brakes and suck the coolant thru the line to get it full, but just ended up getting a big enough seringe to hold enough coolant to fill the line in one shot, the have someone tighten the nut on the isolator so it won't leak out, then attach it to your gauge. I asked about air in mine from where I bought it. At first I thought they said air was ok, but when I called back they said you can't have any air in it. So that's a question that is still up in the.........air??? Mine returns to zero as well when shut off. Crack the line loose at the isolator where the fuel inlet is and start the truck, it will leak and then tighten it down with the truck still running, this will ensure no air on the fuel side of the isolator. Good luck, you'll get it, just keep pluggin away at it, have patience

shawn