Dannyboy403

is there a way to refill the the isolator? if so what how do you do it and what do you use?

SmokeN 12 ValvE

ditch the isolator and get a needle valve

Dannyboy403

how would you do that

SmokeN 12 ValvE

If you run a fass/air dog put this in between the fuel line and the fitting that goes into the vp44

put this in the adapter above (part# 6820)

get a tube kit from a local auto parts store (same tubing used on a boost gauge)
and hook it all up

Fishin2Deep4U

Isolators eliminate the need for needle valves.

We fill the isolator first and then the line to the gauge.

Dave

mcoleman

I prefer to look at that this way:

Needle valves eliminate the need for an isolator. I've found isolators to be nothing but trouble and you just barely have to crack the needle valve open to get a pressure reading. I've been running with a needle valve since 2004.

klx650a2

I also had to replace the plastic line from the needle valve to the gauge with a good 150 psi rubber diesel fuel rated hose with good hose clamps. Apparently -41 Celsius causes the plastic to crack and leak. Repeated attempts to fix caused me to say bad words when trying to fix the leaks.

The bigger diameter hose is harder to run, but at least I know I do not have leaks.

BC847

Actually, to do it right you need both. An isolator to keep the fuel out of the cab, and a needle-valve (snubber) to protect the isolator's diaphragm.

Dieselcamper

I run no isolator with a steel braided line rated at 1500psi working pressure. Lift pump puts out 16 psi. I think I have enough of a safety factor

dzlfarmboy

I stoped using isolators back in 04. Even 1/8" nylon tubing works great strait to the gauge and use a ball valve with it.

jentas

Toss the isolator. Just use good plumbing and a needle valve cracked just enough to get reading.

I actually use two needle valves, one like posted above at the inlet to the vp and one right at the gauge. Really only need the one at the vp, though.

I was a little paranoid when I first started running the fuel straight to the cab, but I really don't see much of a chance of this thing leaking after running it for a while now.

klx650a2

jentas -are you running that 1/8" plastic tubing into the cab? I had BAD LUCK in cold temps with that stuff.

smokinstrokes99

i ran mine strait to the cab, i had a minor pinch with a leak but that was an easy fix, i would agree with upgrading the line. i have some low quality plastic lines and i had hell installing.

jentas

Are you talking about the plastic stuff they sometimes sell in icemaker installation kits with compression fittings and self-piercing needle vavles? I would stay away from that even for water applications, not very reliable, imo. I would worry too much if I used it to run fuel into the cab.

I have my jegs liquid filled 30 psi gauge connected using 1/4" nylon lined parker fuel line with pushlock connectors. It's just like the fuel line used in the airdog setups, just smaller diameter.

I would really use either the nylon lined stuff or 1/8" copper tubing with compression fittings (making sure to leave coiled when necessary).

high bid

I agree, stainless steel braided line guaranteed not to break....
Once, I changed from the plastic %$#&@! I wish I'd have gone that route in the beginning. No leaky now!