where can i get them and what are the part for my 24v.

 

Here ya go:
http://www.performancedieselwarehouse.com/936455.html

 

thanks. how can you o-ring your head.

 

it has to be taken to a machine shop and a groove is cut around the cylinder and a thin wire is placed in that groove. the wire then protrudes down into the metal fire-ring part of the headgasket and exerts more force on it to get a better seal of the cylinders. you must also deck the head to be sure its flat, and its also a good idea to check for cracks, and have the valve seats and guides replaced. i did mine with 78k on the head and the guides and seats were in rough shape and needed to be replaced.

a marine gasket, o-rings, and studs if done right will hold 65-70psi and be reliable.

 

I just used the stock cummins head gasket. It will work for ya unless your shaving off metal of the block or head. Then you will have to go the aftermarket route. I was going to use a custom cut gasket but its was a bit pricey for my. So far I have had any head gasket issues using the stocker and I seen 70+ boost a couple of times. The trick is to get everything trued up and straight. Keep the studs tight and plan on re-torque every once and while. I know that this doesn't sound exotic but it seems to work so far.

 

mike, what head studs you useing. 12mm or 14mm

 

12mm ARP's. So far it worked pretty good but I really haven't put the hammer down really hard. I start getting scared with boosts around the psi 70 area.

 

May seem like a silly question but how do you keep the wire in the cut groove when putting the head back into place.

If it moves, is this why so many guys seem to have trouble when the re-do the head? Seems like more posts of guys re-doing the heads with o-rings and then running into problems. Scares me to even try only I know I need to.

 

so mike, let me get this straight. you are running the stock head gasket with no O rings and studs and running 70psi? is this something I should do since there are no experienced cummins people here?

 

If it moves...was not done correctly! Fit should be tight with no chance of falling out when head is inverted.

IMO, troubles with O-rings/Firerings comes from sloppy cutting of the groove. Precision cut is all important!

RJ

 

was chatting with someone on another forum about his 01.5, as long as the head is flat, and the block is true, then a stock headgasket with proper torquing of studs can handle alot more than I thought. now this is only one case, but he had an 80psi gauge that would peg, and he estimated 100psi with his twins and it was not 0-ringed or fire ringed. this was on a race truck 1.5 years and when he took the head off he said the gasket was in great shape.

Like was stated tho, head and block must be perfectly flat, and studs must be torqued properly and probably retorqued often.

 

Mines o-ringed yes. Its only been to 70 psi about a dozen times. Yes its risky, but the fun factor feel pretty good. I do lots of re-torques. You have to the right steps in prepping the block. Its has to be better than factory. Cummins qc is the tops. Half of my stud holes wheren't tapped to the right depth and I had to play with them to get in position. See that I thought about pulling the motor just to do a decent job but heck why pull a good motor. I've only put about 60k miles on my combo. Its still pulling hard. I bet that I would still pull 650+rwhp on the dyno. The worst thing is the ATS manifold bolts and my secondary turbo exhaust housing. There so much shaking going it wiggles out all the bolts. I drive this truck daily to work and its still used to pull trailers.

 

i have some dumb questions. whats the differents between fire ring and o-ring. and do you have to take the motor out to fire ring or o-ring your head.

 

What modification has to be done to the marine gasket for 24 valved trucks?

 

Like Mike said above....Why pull a perfectly good motor. Almost no one does... we just ring the head. The ultimate security would be to ring head & block but not necessary, IMO for 60-70 psi boost.
Firerings are solid rings (previously copper, but now steel is also available). O-ring jobs are a cut wire but if matched well at the ends, I see no problems. Firerings come with a custom gasket... expensive but very stout, IMO.

RJ