1stGen545

To make a 2WD Low switch you mount the switch and route the lines the same as above.

Then look on top of your T-case and locate the switch with 4 vacuum lines coming out of it. This is the switch that supplies vacuum to the CAD to lock and unlock the front axle. When you shift to 4H or 4L a detente on a rail inside the t-case that engages the front drive shaft moves allowing vacuum to pass threw and engage the CAD.

There are 2 lines that go to the CAD a red and a black. The red line disengages the CAD and the black in-gauges it.

Locate the place were the black line comes into the switch on the t-case. It should be the one on the front driver side corner of the switch.

Cut the soft rubber hose about 2" from were it connects to the black line.

Cut your 1/4" line from the switch at a 45* angle so that it makes a point.

lubricate the hose and slide it into the soft rubber hose, do this on both pieces so that you now have the red line connected to the hard 1/4" line going to the switch (in cab) and another hard 1/4" hard line from the switch (t-case) to the switch (in cab).

route both lines into cab do desired switch location.

Connect the 1/4" line that is connected to the red line to the side of the switch with the arrow pointing OUT

the line coming from the t-case switch will go to the side with the arrow pointing IN. To test place truck in 4L or 4H and check line for vacuum with truck running.

Do not reverse these lines or you will have a vacuum leak. The toggle switch is designed to vent the pressure or vacuum from the out going line (red line to CAD) when switch is turned off.

Now with the switch flipped towards the flat spot on the treads your 4x4 will work as normal. flip the switch away from the flat spot and you block the vacuum and the front axle (CAD) will not engage and you will have 2WD Low that can be used for backing a trailer around with a grabby clutch or just for better control and lower speed with out the jumping that you some times have.

If you have any ??? just let me know or if you need help getting parts PM me I will help you find a place that has them or I can get them and send them to you if you cant find them

I hope this helps any one that has wanted to do this. PRD gets $90 for each you can get all of this for about $50 each or less.

HAMMER_DOWN

Are the fittings on a 2nd gen the same size as the 1st gen...in other words, will a valet switch kit made for a 94+ work on a VE pump?

I'm looking at getting this one...

http://www.pacbrake.com/index.php?pa...le-accessories

wannadiesel

That kit looks like it taps into the hard line from the head to the AFC on a 2nd gen.

1stGen545

It dose the same things just with a manual switch not an electric solenoid so ther is less things to go wrong. Packbrake makes great stuff but I got all the parts for mine for around $50. The setup I made will fit a 1st gen I would just have to use a diff fitting for the pump side but thats only about $2 to replace the banjo fitting. I can check it on my 92 and make sure I get the correct fitting.

1stGen545

Dieselman2500 You still want me to get you the parts for this. PM me

dieselman2300

Yes please

smokin95

any body just run a manual valve....

Mcmopar

Don't the BD and Pac also send vacuum to the other side of the actuator to "suck" the collar back so it cannot slide into the locked position by accident?

jstone44720

I really like your idea for the air switches to limit fuel. I prefer the simplicity over a relay/solenoid setup. It is the kind of simple and fairly cheap mod that made me buy a 12v in the first place.