Major Help Needed - Trany Related
#16
dieselminded: I do understand your "want" very good. The problem is that IMO some of the seals in the stock tranny are just holding up to the stock pressures, any more pressure (read VB or shiftkit) and the problems may (might) start.
A lower stall TC will also put more torque into the tranny at lower revs. This means that any little hole somewhere that you didn't notice now can cause slippage then. Especially if you put on power adders too, they'll give you even more torque to the trans.
You may still be lucky though, but I'd say it will really pay off to buy the DC shop manual (if you don't have it yet) and borrow a good set of pressure gauges to analyze the tranny before you do something else.
As for the triplelock TCs- I don't have firsthand experience with them, but I believe they are not necessary in front of a stock trans- the tranny will then slip before the TC lockup clutch does, but that's only moving the problem from one place to another. (And the oil carrying the debris of the burned clutch into all the parts in there so it really doesn't matter which clutch has burned).
There are a lot of vendors of good transmissions out there, but AFAIK one of the keys to a good tranny is maintenance and keeping it within the design specs. (Even for an aftermarket one)- if it slips you ruin it.
I admit being biased towards DTT since I've got one of their transmissions and it works really well.
AlpineRAM
A lower stall TC will also put more torque into the tranny at lower revs. This means that any little hole somewhere that you didn't notice now can cause slippage then. Especially if you put on power adders too, they'll give you even more torque to the trans.
You may still be lucky though, but I'd say it will really pay off to buy the DC shop manual (if you don't have it yet) and borrow a good set of pressure gauges to analyze the tranny before you do something else.
As for the triplelock TCs- I don't have firsthand experience with them, but I believe they are not necessary in front of a stock trans- the tranny will then slip before the TC lockup clutch does, but that's only moving the problem from one place to another. (And the oil carrying the debris of the burned clutch into all the parts in there so it really doesn't matter which clutch has burned).
There are a lot of vendors of good transmissions out there, but AFAIK one of the keys to a good tranny is maintenance and keeping it within the design specs. (Even for an aftermarket one)- if it slips you ruin it.
I admit being biased towards DTT since I've got one of their transmissions and it works really well.
AlpineRAM
#17
Got approved !!
Trany upgrade it is
Why is the suncoast single plate better than stock isnt the stocker a single plate ????
The triple plater is $1500 by its self......... so buy the time you add shift kit and valve body your talking big bucks and it might be a little over kill for me.
Ill do an occasional pull with her and I see many stockers pull all the time so I'll feal that much safer haveing any mods to my trany.
they do custom valve bodys what can they change with the valve body ??
Im looking at maybe 350 HP max .......I think ...........is that resonable???what is a good driver HP to be @ ????
Thanks for your help so far guys I getting ready to make the appointment after I sign the loan papers so I need to get these last few questions answered by unbias people.
THANKS
DM
Trany upgrade it is
Why is the suncoast single plate better than stock isnt the stocker a single plate ????
The triple plater is $1500 by its self......... so buy the time you add shift kit and valve body your talking big bucks and it might be a little over kill for me.
Ill do an occasional pull with her and I see many stockers pull all the time so I'll feal that much safer haveing any mods to my trany.
they do custom valve bodys what can they change with the valve body ??
Im looking at maybe 350 HP max .......I think ...........is that resonable???what is a good driver HP to be @ ????
Thanks for your help so far guys I getting ready to make the appointment after I sign the loan papers so I need to get these last few questions answered by unbias people.
THANKS
DM
#20
dieselminded: Why is brand Xs single disk converter better than the stock single disk?
Simply put- the TC has two states of operation- fluid coupling and lockup. The fluid coupling is when you start from the redlight and during acceleration until lockup occurs. This is where the stock TC is really bad. When you improve this you've already won a good bit. This is done by changing the geometry of the vanes of the stator, pump and turbine, this geometry must fit your application to give you the stall point you want, the orque multiplication you need etc.
So for this part the number of lockup clutches doesn't count because they ain't applied.
In lockup the stock TC and AFAIK the aftermarket ones too do rely on the lockup clutch lining being the clutch and the seal the same time. So if you apply much torque in lockup you'll see the cover and clutch disk warp, therefore leak oil and the apply pressure bleeding off result- slippage.
So some brands adressed that by modifying the single disk designs to have less warp of the cover (billet covers, welded reinforcement plates etc) to make the single disk TC clutch hold up to more torque than the stocker. Some other brands offer multi disk TCs that will basically do the same- hold the power without slipping.
Where I do feel that the billet cover- multi disk stuff has some disadvantage is because of the greater rotating masses and the bigger inertia. But I'm the type of guy who runs milled flywheels for less rotating mass in his gassers, shurely that tells you something about my driving style.
Disclaimer- this is not intended to start a tranny war
AlpineRAM
Simply put- the TC has two states of operation- fluid coupling and lockup. The fluid coupling is when you start from the redlight and during acceleration until lockup occurs. This is where the stock TC is really bad. When you improve this you've already won a good bit. This is done by changing the geometry of the vanes of the stator, pump and turbine, this geometry must fit your application to give you the stall point you want, the orque multiplication you need etc.
So for this part the number of lockup clutches doesn't count because they ain't applied.
In lockup the stock TC and AFAIK the aftermarket ones too do rely on the lockup clutch lining being the clutch and the seal the same time. So if you apply much torque in lockup you'll see the cover and clutch disk warp, therefore leak oil and the apply pressure bleeding off result- slippage.
So some brands adressed that by modifying the single disk designs to have less warp of the cover (billet covers, welded reinforcement plates etc) to make the single disk TC clutch hold up to more torque than the stocker. Some other brands offer multi disk TCs that will basically do the same- hold the power without slipping.
Where I do feel that the billet cover- multi disk stuff has some disadvantage is because of the greater rotating masses and the bigger inertia. But I'm the type of guy who runs milled flywheels for less rotating mass in his gassers, shurely that tells you something about my driving style.
Disclaimer- this is not intended to start a tranny war
AlpineRAM
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