cumminsdriver635

I wouldnt spend the money on the 14cm housing. I would either go to a 16cm non gated, or drill the wastegate divider and do a little porting on the stock 12cm housing.

I think the 14cm housing is a nice piece, but it is waay overpriced IMO. I bought my HX40 for less than just a 14cm housing costs...

Eric

HOHN

Hey, thanks!

I didn't mean to *recommend* the HTT charger, just to use it as a size reference. Once upon a time it was all the rage, so I'm guessing that it's proven to be less than durable? Either that or the buyers are just abusing them, I suppose.

Anyway, back to the 35/40 Eric is considering.

I'm not generally a fan of this hybrid, but it is a good thin air turbo. The larger compressor helps to compensate somewhat for the reduction in air density in the thin air, and it spools pretty well. The same qualities that make a charger surge badly at low elevation can actually become pluses in thin air.

I'd skip the gated housing altogether and go with the 14 non gated housing. You'll have to re-work the exhaust a bit (if memory serves, this housing is shorter than a gated housing). You shouldn't be able to push this thing past 35psi in the thin air (with no wiretap, larger housing, thinner air).

So I would personally save the money and go for the 14nonwastegate. Do NOT use the 12cm with the hybrid-- it's already too small for the hx35 compressor, and a bigger 60mm compressor just makes it worse.

Again, just my opinion-- you'll want to bump this against people with experience and real world contributions, not just my conjecture.

Justin

esorensen

Justin, what would be the +/- of such a hybrid you describe as far as power,cooling, headroom for further mods? Does this setup require an HX-40 downpipe?

HOHN

A hybrid has some things to like, but it's an incremental improvement.

1) Larger compressor helps with the thinner air because the "bigger bite" it takes helps to offset the lower air density. This should help EGT a bit up to a point
2) Past that point, EGT will skyrocket because the turbine will be even more choked than a stock turbo. The larger compressor requires more shaft power to drive to a given RPM. The small turbine isn't optimal for delivering higher shaft power requirements.

3) Cooling should be better with the hybrid up until the "red zone" point. After that, it will likely be even worse than stock because the engine can't breathe well at all.

I know that Bob Wagner has made 400hp with his hybrid turbo. That's a good marker for the limit of the hybrid. At higher elevations, it's even less.

I'd say you pick up a realistic 40hp more useability with the hybrid turbo over a stock charger, which slightly more lag.

Incremental improvement.


JMO

esorensen

I suppose I'll just wait until I need (read want) to get Rips 2/3's kit and put on twins with a stack of some sort. I'll be ok for now with what I've got or so it seems!

As far as gears go, it wold be chaper to pick up a set of five OEM rims from a wrecking yard and put on stock(ish) tires, than purchasing a whole new set of gears and differential of some sort. Even a couple hundred rpm would help cooling at this point.

So if I were to consider the Smarty as the next upgrade with future intentions of a stack with another computer and twins, is that realistic?

Fishin2Deep4U

I would avoid the Smarty in a tow rig. It'll help spool the charger(s), but heat control is very difficult. If you plan on running a fuel only box and want a box for stacking, get an EZ.

But I would just get a Comp or Juice and just leave it turned down. You get the best of both worlds.

The smaller tire size is the fastest way to lower the gear ratio. It will help immediately.

As far as the compounds, it's Vulcan Performance all the way for me!


Dave

HOHN

Dave is giving great advice, imo. (like usual)

My Smarty basically never gets adjusted. I try other software settings only to come back to the same mild sw #3 every time. Everything else is just so non-linear that I can't drive my truck!

For towing, I'd use #2 to get rid of some timing, but then you get into the heat.

If I were you, I'd get Quad's little XZT+. Then you can just run some mild timing when towing, and add a little fueling when not.

Then when you get bigger charger(s), you can add a TST box or something cheap and used.

Or just get a bigger quad box and let the wire dangle for a bit.

I think Marco and Bob and the gang are great guys. But when, if I buy electronics, it will be TST or Quad.


JMO

esorensen

Thanks for all the responses guys! I think I have the engine sorted, now for the front end, and the nonfunctional fuel level sending unit.

HOHN

Ha, I haven't had an accurate fuel level reading for 4 years!

Trip odo baby!

esorensen

Ha! Me neither! You hook up 10k worth of the most unaerodynamic shape you can think up and that tank lets out a mighty hollow sound when you rap on the side of it all too quickly!

I'd probably just let it go, but my wife put the kabash on that real fast. Something like "If you let this thing get empty, you may as well call a lawyer along with that tow truck".

She's a tolerant gal as she has put up with me and my dumb a$$ for nearly ten years so far.

Long story short, I'll probably just unbolt the bed and get at the unit from the top. She's not a daily driver anymore so I can leave it if need be. I guess I'll put in the draw straw while I'm at it. I haven't seen a price on the sending unit lately, but the last I remember, they were on the expensive side.

HOHN

Try a boneyard first. New from dealer they are ~$350 or so!

Rumor has it that a Jeep Liberty unit will work also.

esorensen

Guess I need to take it apart to figure out what is wrong with it. Maybe it is something simple and cheap! Not with my luck. The overhead console has said OC or something for quite a while now. I figure it means open circut. It's probably DC shorthand for "cheap part, expensive fix".