Cowhand

Mine lasted a good 180K before I really had any problems (with the exception of track bars). Finally changed all the parts out at 180 because the DW came back shortly after I had it aligned. It was time.

I did all the rod ends, ball joints and cross joints at 180K. Steering box at ~201.
Decided I didn't want to do this anymore, so I tore out my entire front suspension and started over.

Don't get scared Jim, I ran 5" of lift with at least a 36" tire for 130K before I had any real issues (except the track bar).

The DSS is well worth the money....tightens up the steering a little and makes the steering box live alot longer.

jfpointer

I'm scared to drive it over 60 mph, I know that much!

tool

My tack bar is shot, I really should get the thing replaced but I have only ever had one death wobble..... That was when I hammered on some bad potholes on a gravel road on a hill. It'd just about shake your teeth out 'till everything settles down and all is normal again. I've been trying to hold out 'till I can do the 3rd gen upgrade. Maybe I should just try a lukes link for now??

I've been told upgrading the steering stabilizer and even putting two stabilizers on will do more to cure the death wobble than any other fix.

Cowhand

I don't know who told you that, must be the guy who sells steering stabilizers. You need to cure the problem, not mask the symptoms. That's exactly what the steering stab does, mask the symptoms.

I'm still trying to figure out why folks are so hot on the 03 track bar setup.....it still uses soft rubber bushings in both ends. The bushing will get softer over time and the axle is gonna move again. Bushings are not replaceable, AFAIK. And the whole set up is $50-60 more than the DT and $145 more than the Thurenfab bar.

Oh well, if you guys wanna keep putting band aids on bullet holes just 'cause someone else did it....

jfpointer

Thought I'd dredge this one up in order to close it out with some details. Here's what I've done since installing the Luke's Link:

1. Installed 315/75-16 Maxxis Buckshot Mudders. Result: It actually seemed a bit less prone to death wobble. I was very surprised by that, and I have no idea why that would be.

2. Front end alignment. Guy said caster was maxed when done. Result: Goes straight down the road now, feels less "nervous." Death wobble seems gone, and what I'd call "death-wobble pre-cursors" almost gone.

3. Removed the plug and put two washers in the bottom of the Luke's Link, tightened it back up a bit tighter than it was before. Result: All better, at least for now!

4. Figuring it couldn't possibly hurt, and because I had a $15 Summit Racing coupon that was about to expire, I put a new Rancho direct replacement steering stabilizer on it (RS5404). Result: It might be a slight improvement, but probably not worth the work of putting it on there. Getting the old stud out of the tie rod was a real bear.

I thought a little wrap-up would be good idea for those who were kind enough to weigh in with suggestions. Bottom line is, Cowhand's right that the alignment is pretty much critical, and whatever track bar solution is being implemented definitely needs to be sufficiently tight.

Cowhand

Glad to hear you finally got a handle on it Jim. The tires can make a big difference too, caster, tire balance, and loose front end parts all play a part in setting up the resonance that causes the DW.

I finally got my Thuren bar welded on today. All I can say is....WOW! I replaced my other aftermarket bar with the Thuren bar, and for the fist time in 3 years I can let go of the steering wheel at 70 MPH and it tracks straight.

I would highly recommend the Thuren bar now that I've actually run it rather than look at it sitting on my tool box.

Jim, I think you got off light....I completely re-engineered my front end to the tune of ~$2600 just in parts. New steering box, cross over steering, track bar, radius arms, shock towers, and shocks.

jfpointer

Well, I'm glad I got off light at only 42,000 miles. I'd be a bit disappointed if I had to do major rebuilds that soon. 150,000 I wouldn't have such a problem with.

I suspect that a Thurenfab unit or a DT are in my future within the next 50,000 or so, though. Probably a DT unless I can find someone locally that I think I can really trust to weld on my frame. I've heard that it's not recommended, so it would take a lot of convincing for me to do that.

I'm a bit closer to stock than you are, too, at about 2-2.5" of front lift.

Cowhand

Jim,

Your best bet whether you go with DT or Thuren is to have the barcket welded on. That way you know for sure it'll never move. Can't be any worse than drilling holes in it. I wouldn't worry about welding to the frame, the Thuren bracket is bolted to the track bar cast steel frame boss then fillet welded to the boss. The brace requires about 2-2 1/2 " of fillet onto the crossmember under the oil pan. As long as the welder takes his time and lets the area cool between passes, it shouldn't be a problem.

And I agree, if I'd had to do this at 42K, I'd have been As it is, it wasn't easy to swallow at 215K.