Luke's link/trackbar installation
#1
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Luke's link/trackbar installation
So after getting the death wobble a couple weeks ago, I bought a Luke's Link and put it on last weekend. Installing the link on the track bar went pretty well. The instructions were good, and the preload measured out exactly as specified. So I think it's good to go, based on that. However, I'm not so sure about the reinstallation of the track bar on the truck. The top surface of the track bar end is not flush with the mounting plate at the frame end. I've put a couple of photos in my gallery, so once they're approved it should be possible to see what I'm talking about. Notice the red D25 springs, too.
I'm pretty sure it should be flush up against the mounting surface, if for no other reason than that I can't see how the seal on the top is going to keep the grease in there if it's not. For another thing, it doesn't seem to have cured the death wobble, which by the way is the scariest thing that's ever happened to me in a vehicle.
So the question I'm hoping someone can help with is, how on earth are you supposed to get the thing in place so it's flush? I went through first and torqued everything else in the front end to spec. I jacked under the pumpkin, under the control arms on both sides, under the frame on both sides, turned the wheels back and forth, nothing that I did put it flush. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I have 315's on the way to replace the stock 265's, but if I can't cure the death wobble with the stock tires, the 315's sure aren't going to work.
I'm pretty sure it should be flush up against the mounting surface, if for no other reason than that I can't see how the seal on the top is going to keep the grease in there if it's not. For another thing, it doesn't seem to have cured the death wobble, which by the way is the scariest thing that's ever happened to me in a vehicle.
So the question I'm hoping someone can help with is, how on earth are you supposed to get the thing in place so it's flush? I went through first and torqued everything else in the front end to spec. I jacked under the pumpkin, under the control arms on both sides, under the frame on both sides, turned the wheels back and forth, nothing that I did put it flush. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I have 315's on the way to replace the stock 265's, but if I can't cure the death wobble with the stock tires, the 315's sure aren't going to work.
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I dont think the death wobble comes from the trackbar? Maybe 'other' loose tie rod ends, or alingnment issues, possibly even a bad stablizer shock. GOOD LUCK and I LOVE MY LUKES LINK so far. Did you get the bushing also? makes a world of difference.
DuaneW.
I just installed the Link and bushing in my trackbar, I have not (knock on wood) had the death wobbel yet but I can tell you the steering is better than new on mine, I think the pollyurathane bushing is a vast improvement over the rubber bushing. I found myself constantly oversteering for about the first 75 to 100 miles after the install.
DuaneW.
I just installed the Link and bushing in my trackbar, I have not (knock on wood) had the death wobbel yet but I can tell you the steering is better than new on mine, I think the pollyurathane bushing is a vast improvement over the rubber bushing. I found myself constantly oversteering for about the first 75 to 100 miles after the install.
#4
After 78k miles, my bushing needs to be replaced. Maybe I'll order one today. My lukes link doesn't sit flush on my bracket either and for what it's worth, that little o-ring seal thingy doesn't hold the grease in there very well.
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Death wobble is actually caster shimmy, a loose track bar just makes it worse. Get the alignment specs off of dodgeram.org and have it aligned to those specs, the DW will go away.
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Originally posted by Cowhand
Death wobble is actually caster shimmy, a loose track bar just makes it worse. Get the alignment specs off of dodgeram.org and have it aligned to those specs, the DW will go away.
Death wobble is actually caster shimmy, a loose track bar just makes it worse. Get the alignment specs off of dodgeram.org and have it aligned to those specs, the DW will go away.
#7
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Adding the D25's should no affect caster much (maybe .1 or .2 degrees)........that is the idea of a 4 link suspension - to be able to have the suspension maintain it's caster throughout the entire cycle of the suspension travel.......the lukes link cured my death wobble.......have you checked the steering stablizer, rod ends and box?......if there is enough slop there, all those things can contribute to the death wobble.
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Steering stabilizer is still the one that came from the factory, so if its quality is similar to the factory shocks it probably needs to be replaced. I'm looking at replacements right now, in fact. It doesn't seem to steer badly, really, it just gets to hammering out of control over certain bumps at speeds of about 65 mph or higher. Only does it when the tires are pointed straight ahead and if the bump is dead straight across the road. An example might be a bridge entrance seam on the interstate or occasionally other expansion joint type bumps.
The truck only has 42,000 miles on it, so if the rod ends or especially the steering box are shot already I'm trading it in because that would be inexcusably poor quality of components... The heaviest towing it's done is ~5-6,000 lbs a total of 3 times for about 4,000 miles, I've hauled 2,700 lbs in the back for about 10 miles, the rest of the time it takes me back and forth to work every day completely empty.
The truck only has 42,000 miles on it, so if the rod ends or especially the steering box are shot already I'm trading it in because that would be inexcusably poor quality of components... The heaviest towing it's done is ~5-6,000 lbs a total of 3 times for about 4,000 miles, I've hauled 2,700 lbs in the back for about 10 miles, the rest of the time it takes me back and forth to work every day completely empty.
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Death wobble usually occurs around 30-40 MPH. Steering stabilizers, factory or not, only mask the problem. I had one on my truck before I changed over to x-over steering, and it never made a difference with the DW.
If you're experiencing a problem at ~65MPH+, I'd say most likely track bar. Are you running a DSS? Have someone rock the steering wheel from side to side while you look for side to side play in the steering box sector shaft.
As far as alignment, these front ends like a lot of caster, I set mine at 3.2* L, 3.5* R. It always worked well for my factory style front suspension. But since I've completely re-engineered the front end now, I have no idea where it's gonna end up.
If you're experiencing a problem at ~65MPH+, I'd say most likely track bar. Are you running a DSS? Have someone rock the steering wheel from side to side while you look for side to side play in the steering box sector shaft.
As far as alignment, these front ends like a lot of caster, I set mine at 3.2* L, 3.5* R. It always worked well for my factory style front suspension. But since I've completely re-engineered the front end now, I have no idea where it's gonna end up.
#11
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I have had ball joints that were completely smoked and had no DW.......One of the reasons DC gives the CTD's so little caster is to promote reasonable ball joint life......more caster=shorter ball joint life.....that said, I do agree that a little more caster on our trucks does go a long way in helping the truck handle better........DC caster specs are too conservative, IMO.
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Originally posted by Cowhand
Death wobble usually occurs around 30-40 MPH. Steering stabilizers, factory or not, only mask the problem. I had one on my truck before I changed over to x-over steering, and it never made a difference with the DW.
If you're experiencing a problem at ~65MPH+, I'd say most likely track bar. Are you running a DSS? Have someone rock the steering wheel from side to side while you look for side to side play in the steering box sector shaft.
As far as alignment, these front ends like a lot of caster, I set mine at 3.2* L, 3.5* R. It always worked well for my factory style front suspension. But since I've completely re-engineered the front end now, I have no idea where it's gonna end up.
Death wobble usually occurs around 30-40 MPH. Steering stabilizers, factory or not, only mask the problem. I had one on my truck before I changed over to x-over steering, and it never made a difference with the DW.
If you're experiencing a problem at ~65MPH+, I'd say most likely track bar. Are you running a DSS? Have someone rock the steering wheel from side to side while you look for side to side play in the steering box sector shaft.
As far as alignment, these front ends like a lot of caster, I set mine at 3.2* L, 3.5* R. It always worked well for my factory style front suspension. But since I've completely re-engineered the front end now, I have no idea where it's gonna end up.
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With all the expensive-sounding possibilities that have been raised so far, you guys about have me convinced to go trade it in on a Toyota. At least my Tacoma's front end lasted 40,000 miles without falling apart...
#14
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When my truck would death wobble it was only at speeds of 65 and above and usually only when the tires would hit the "bump" separately while turning. Like changing lanes and hitting the concrete seams on the highway or bridge gaps on a curve. Straight highway seams wouldn't do too much to cause it on my truck. However, there's one hill with really bad pavement that 55 mph uphill would cause a death wobble. Finally after lots of money at the dealer for lots of front end parts, then DSS, Lukes Link, new shocks, new tires, and 3 or 4 alignments, I think the DW is dead.
Before it was finally sorted out, I did have it occur with a brand new DC track bar. I currently have the LL on my old track bar on the truck. I've been considering the solid steel 2003 conversion or a Thuren Fab replacement track bar. But since I haven't had a problem in 5 or 6 months I think I'll wait and see. I'm guessing that the latest alignment along with all of the other new components finally made the combination right. Too bad it took me over $2500 to get it done.
Before it was finally sorted out, I did have it occur with a brand new DC track bar. I currently have the LL on my old track bar on the truck. I've been considering the solid steel 2003 conversion or a Thuren Fab replacement track bar. But since I haven't had a problem in 5 or 6 months I think I'll wait and see. I'm guessing that the latest alignment along with all of the other new components finally made the combination right. Too bad it took me over $2500 to get it done.