are the cerrametalic ones the goofey looking ones with 4 clutch pads like in the big trucks?? if it is then they have to be good ones to be put in a big truck and last 500,000 miles!

 

I bought it from keltons truck parts in corpus christi there on buss. 44

 

hey hauliday how much did you pay for that clutch, i live right there in calallen so i may go check it out. does anyone want a brand new clutch still in the box? i'll sell it for like 300 if someone needs it. i want a cerrametallic too.

 

nope im ordering my ceramatallic at the end of the month

 

600 Megawatts,

Kevin,

I'm not sure of your dislike for me or South Bend Clutch or the people who have chosen to purchase from us. Your choice of choosing the cerametalic clutch is certainly your choice. Your remarks toward us and our product, in poor taste that they are, have been incorrect. You, in fact, have no idea what we do with the pressure plates to enhance the plate loads. They are, for a fact, altered to create a higher plate load. I read where someone stated where the ceramic clutches hold up for 500,000 miles on semi's. This is true, but understand that they are 15 1/2" double disc clutches with 4,000 lbs of plate load and the clutches themselves have adjusters in them so they may be manually adjusted to extend their longevity. Your Dodge trucks do not have any adjusting to them what-so-ever. The question of the cerametalic holding goes without question, of course it will hold. We chose not to use this route 7 years ago due to the longevity of the clutches. Sure, it would be great if we're able to buy the less expensive metalic material, but in the long run, the clutches simply would not last. The grooving to the casting, flywheel and pressure plate, will be severe. This is why we chose the higher end, much more expensive feramic material for the clutch discs. The feramic facings, per facing, which there are two on each disc, are 5 times the cost of the cerametalic. The friction companies themselves (the people who make the material) have provided us with charts that show the iron wear as well as the heat tollerances. Feramic beats cerametalic in both categories hands down.

I noticed by your sig and checking your profile that you do not show who you are, where you are from, in fact you don't even show what kind of truck you have or what mods you have. I would think this to be somewhat questionable.

Also, dealing with the chatter, this is not only stated by SBC users or anyone else, it is stated directly from Luk themselves. Clutches that contain metal, even ours, will exhibit chatter. Quite often they will be smooth in the beginning but trust me, it will begin to do so once the grooving of the casting is started. I believe that you are misleading people.

As for another statement that you said in either this thread or your other thread about turning the flywheel, and the fact that you do it yourself on a lathe, again, leaves a little to be desired for your knowledge. Any clutch company, as well as Luk, will tell you to NEVER surface your flywheel on a lathe, they should only be stone ground. Also, you stated that you took 70 thousandth metal off your flywheel in order to get rid of the hot spots, is also UNBELIEVEABLE. When flywheel cores are returned to us with any more then 40 thousandth missing they go in the garbage can. Resurfacing a flywheel should take no more then 10 thousandth.

Folks, good luck with your choice, it is an open and free market, but remember one thing, it's not always in the price. We have a little saying on our wall, Price, Quality, Service, pick two. If you do have a problem with the clutch or you do not like the way it performs or you have premature failure what will they do?

Peter
South Bend Clutch

 

Well Peter on a few items I must respectfully disagree and add the following.

One, don’t ever question my integrity or my knowledge again. I never personally attacked you on any post and I do not appreciate you personally attacking me. Is that clear?

Two, I have stated my mods in the other post pertaining to the LUK clutch which you had admitted to have read but apparently not thoroughly enough. Correct I don't have my mods or my address, phone number or social security number etc. in my signature. I prefer to not have the entire internet community aware of my truck and where I live, etc. I have shared this information with some members via PM’s however.

Three, I could not even more possibly disagree with you regarding machining the flywheel. One simple fact, new flywheels come machined on a lathe not ground. It is mine and dozens of other drag racers' opinion that turned flywheels are best for holding power and breaking in a new clutch. It has been suggested the ground finish is both too smooth and also the spot heating occurring on the top few thousands of the surface creates a harder surface, which proves better for long term wear, but not for coefficient of friction. As for removing .070" go ahead and call it unbelievable, I have no problem with it at all. I removed 13 Lbs of rotating inertia in the process. I have taken far more off of my drag car flywheels in the past. This is a thick and heavy flywheel and I respectfully suggest that nothing was compromised with taking a .070" cut. But I am not a Dodge truck clutch expert, you claim to be and LUK obviously is so maybe I am wrong.


Four, as far as chatter I specifically mentioned how I had indeed expected chatter. There is even a note that comes with the clutch about chatter. This clutch exhibits no chatter in my truck. Perhaps something is wrong with my setup, but it does not chatter. Period. Anyone who lives near Pittsburgh, PA is welcome to PM me and I would be glad set up a meeting to have them drive my truck and confirm this much. I am not misleading anyone and do not appreciate the Libel you wrote suggesting that I am.



HOHN, on the money buddy, I love going against the grain. Its great fun and you learn more that way and usually save money too!!!


Kevin
















Three,

 

And another thing...... You know what, I do go against the grain bigtime. And I have been real hard on Don M's company and the FASS company too, but you don’t see them jumping all over me making personal attacks on me do you? They just support their case with solid technical data and leave it to that... Isn't that interesting…..



Kevin

 

Boys, boys, boys - play nice....there's no real need to get personal. It takes all kinds and its never a bad idea to explore your options. I must also say that Ive NEVER heard anything negative about a Southbend or about their customer service. Its all good.

If you want to argue, we can start another oil thread.....

 

or one about using ether on diesels, that topic always puts a fire under a few people's tails.

 

i want a double disc adjustible ceramic clutch with 4,000+ lbs. of plate load for my dodge!! i think i'd have to rig up something a little better than the puny clutch master-slave cylinder to disengage it though! or i'd just have to get used to having cramps in my left leg every night!