squirlchasr919

I have a Dana 60/70 combo on my 96 and both were open. I had to at least have the rear lock just so it would spin both tires for show. Plus on a wet road making a tight turn with an open rear was terrible I really had to creep or I would spin and basically sit there.
Anyway I call Reider Racing, a place I got many drivetrain parts from, and asked what they had. In the rear I installed the Powertrax by Lockright. Unless you drive your truck on the road very little I would not get this one. It constantly clangs and bangs and pops when turning, or it will chirp the inside tire because it is locked to the outside. I bought the Powertrax because I thought it wouldn't do that, unlike like the detroit I had in my Jeep.
Second I also got the powertrax because I didn't want to have to totally rebuild the axle. The downside to this is that it puts a crazy amount of freeplay in the gears. If you have an automatic and you put it in reverse it will chirp the tires and you will hear a loud bang of everything locking up! It's really unpleasent.
Third it will also come unlocked under hard acceleration at times. Again on a wet road if I nail it the truck will spin both for a good distance than it will pop and come unlocked and i will only spin one. I know it's installed correct, I had a number of local shops check my work. Maybe I just got a lemon unit.
And on the front you could get a Detroit Trutrac. It is a LSD that uses gears to transfer power, so you would still retain some steering. And more importantly, something you guys didn't mention, is with most of our CAD axles they will wear out a clutch type LSD in a matter of a few hundred miles due to the one shaft spinning and the other is free. The LSD is constanly trying to apply pressure to the other axle and it simply burns the clutches inside itself up very quick.
I personally would go with a trutrac in the front and some type of LSD in the rear as well. You don't loose driveability or subject the truck to increased wear. Or you could just get Ox lockers or ARBs if your feeling spendy.

slimchase

So would a LSD work on a non cad model? or would it cause a hop or tire wear in 2wd on hard surfaces?

KATOOM

squirlchasr919, good point about the CAD unit. But non the less I would NOT run any kind of limited slip unit in the front. ONLY a selectable locker if you want to run anything at all. Having a L/S or locker unit in the front will only make you more prone to visiting the ditch! You HAVE to run an open diff on snowy/icy roads unless you like the white knuckle syndrome.
I think HOHN and ridofpwrstroke have the right idea.

ddestruel

Not totally true, the power Loks in the front and rear of my truck never even made themselves evident unless you jumped on the throttle, they would coast on ice as though they were open diffs, turning cornering highway driving was not effected. Just drive normally and a properly setup LSD will not give you any poroblems front and rear if properly setup.... Dont put a trash lok in the front though then you will have issues. a locker in the front is a different story.

As to an ARB, you'll learn to hate them if you live in a cold climate, premature seal leaks and moisture in the lines that freezes all become serious irritations to anyone who has used an ARB in a sub zero world. I would look to an eletric locker since they are available now. as to the rear why would you want a selectable in the rear, I ran a detroit for awhile and also an ARB in my sterling rear and in the end i found i hated the open diff feature on partially frozen roads.... one tire track frozen and iced over and the other thawed and the fully locked didnt give any of course so there was no in between, i swapped in the Plok and never went back to my ARB because i liked the moderate traction it proveided in those situations and on solid ice it gave me no probelms either, yes Open diffes are easiest on the ice but like i said before stepping up to a properly setup Plok or two. Tight in the rear and loose in the front will work really well in off road situations and on the solid ice highways in the North/High country. It is not a white knuckle experience.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...97192048BTgAhj

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...97192085MtZICL

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...97192062UOPhZc

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...97192074IeHKEs



Id say the old power loks in the dana 60 & 80 in my old truck did pretty well there, and they had 337,000 miles all over and up to Alaska and north Canada without me ever putting the truck in a ditch. Just my personal experience with alot of icy roads

ASTAR

ARB's, without a doubt. Just shell out the extra cash if there is a possibility of it saving your butt from being stuck out in the woods. Like you said, off road tows are costly.

KATOOM

Interesting point of view on the mechanical side of the ARB. I could see were an electric locker would be better, for many reasons. As for the L/S in the front, well maybe your just used to driving in that kind of situation, which is a good skill to have, but still if someone was to ask me any time I would say to only use a selectable locker or open diff in the front for safety issues on public roads. The reason I would like an electric locker in the rear is for on road friendliness and towing. Although I would never pass up a good L/S or locker. By the way those are great pictures. Where is that? And why are you towing around a car in the snow, off road? Dont see that everyday.

ddestruel

And a cummins powered ford all to boot. To make a long story short thats Reno, I was recovering a vehicle that they didnt want to leave there till the spring for it to be stripped any further. The job paid good. Probably one of the hairiest recoveries that ive done, but trailers in the snow and remote locals is something i used to do with regulariety. Thinking that im not so ambitious anymore

I'll have to agree with you on the front diff a selectable is very nice. Overall you are correct it is best option