I have been working on my brothers 02 while he has been overseas, and the latest project is replacing the lift pump. Well, upon further inspection, I found that it has an "in tank" pump. I haven't heard too much about these, are they worth a darn? I do have a new Fass direct replacement lift pump on hand. Is there a way to by-pass the in tank and use the Fass? What modifications are needed to do this? Thanks!!!

 

The in stock in tank lift pump on the latter year 2nd gens is garbage, and often times leads o premature failure of the injection pump due to minimal fuel flow necessary for proper cooling. The Fass DDR is a great investment, however what they don't tell you with after market lift pumps is that dropping the tank and installing a new in tank draw straw is necessary. I just went through this on my 02' about a month ago, now with the new lift pump fuel pressure ranges from 20-21 at idle, and 16-17 min a WOT.

 

Dropping the tank is no biggie, but where might I be able to find the new draw straw? Thanks!

 

This is the one I have, but its for the normal fuel tank module.
http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....ber=VULCAN_DS1

I think this is the one you need.
http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....ber=VULCAN_DS5

 

I purchased mine from:
http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/pr...spx?pf_id=DS-1, and bought the lift pump, and 3/8's big line kit from this website. I tow quite a bit between Utah and Wyoming up some decent grades, and fully loaded never see PSI lower than 16 at WOT.

 

Every mechainic tells me those in tank pumps are pretty good...not sure where you get the report they are bad.

 

I have personally replaced 2............ From what I see, the only "improvement" was that it costs more to replace.

YMMV.

 

Since you have the fass on hand, do the draw straw and you will be very pleased. Low pressure is the primary cause for VP failure. My pressure was 3 to 4 psi stock. With the FASS it is 21 at idle and 16 under full load towing. Your VP pump and wallet will be happier!

 

My intank warranty pump that dodge gave me lasted around 30-40,000 miles then took a big ol' dump. Bought a fuel boss from glacier, installed draw straw without removing bed or tank. Just have to cut another hole in the top of the tank to put the draw straw in and don't have to remove bed or tank unless you just really want to.

On the intank pumps, the Cummins shop near hear says they replaced those intank clunkers with 20k on them and have done a bunch of repairs on dodges that dodge said they "fixed" with the new and improved(b.s) intank pump. Mine on the day it was new would NEVER push more than 7psi. Pulling a hill empty and the thing was practically bouncing off the fuel gauge peg. I think the guy laughed when I told him mine went out at 40k or whatever and he said, "wow, it lasted that long huh?" Said I was lucky it went that far. That would be another, Thanks Dodge! A friendly handshake my a..........

 

mine went out 2800 miles in the tank. under load 3 psi 3000 rpm im geting a air dog thie week

 

Save your money on the air dog.

In-tank mounting helps fuel pump reliability a bunch because it 1) cools the pump and 2) reduces vibration.

If a pump is failing under those conditions, it's a junk pump. Period.

There are more than a couple aftermarket pumps that can be in-tank mounted and work superbly well and hold up. (aeromotive is my personal favorite)

JMO

 

Thanks for all the info! I got a draw straw in and tonight I will be installing it and the FASS. Where would be the best place to tie in a fuel pressure gauge? My brother like the Isspro's, my thinking is that since it is a mostly stock truck, 40psi or under would be adequate for it. Which, mechanical or electrical, would be the best for this truck? I am not so big on running a fuel line right into the cab, but if it works, it works. Do the sending units for the electrical, or a fitting for the mechanical "T" in line between the pump and filter or the filter and injection pump? Is there another location on the filter housing or pump to get the pressure reading from? Thanks!!!

 

I've been using a $25 mechanical liquid-filled gauge from Jeg's for 5 years now. It's cheap and works well, plus I don't have to worry about constant replacing failed senders.

FWIW.

 

I with Hohn. Intank pumps are better because they are submerged in the fuel, helping keep them cool. Just more of a pain when you gotta change them. I have the factory fix intank pump. I have put over 100,000 miles on it since installed. I did put a big line kit on it when they put it in and pressure never seems to go below 3psi. I also have heard people rant about needing pressure all the time. But the IP will pull fuel and it will run without a lift pump, just not for long. I have been informed that you would be fine if your fuel pressure dropped as low as 1psi. On the other hand, I have heard that too much pressure is no good. Blows seals. Even if the lowest pressure you could get was 1 PSI, wouldn't that still be 1PSI more than needed and be circulating fuel past and back to the tank helping cool as was said?

 

40 PSI is plenty, Mine is 20. Does not really matter, you can se more definition in the 20, but after a month or so you will only glance at them anyway.

There is a banjo bolt on the VP that the fuel pressure gauge pulls from. Genos garage has a description, Issopro and autometer have pictures and descriptions of the procedure also. There are also LOTS of pictures for mech gauge installs. Search banjo bolt. Dr Evil (the real one) did a write up on his install with pics. I went with electric gauges cause I wanted three on a pillar pod, and got a set. Mechanical fuel gauges are quick easy and nearly bullet proof. They are also a fraction of the cost of electrical.

There is also a fuel filter canister replacement lid with the fitting for a pressure gauge built in if you so desire. I kinda figured it would make changing the fuel filter a little more difficult, so I drilled and tapped my banjo bolt instead. Genos has a tapped banjo bolt also. 10 or 15 bucks I think, maybe less.

With electrical, you will need the 18" braided hose and 2 snubbers (there are other options for the 2 snubbers, but 2 snubbers is really easy). I installed my sending unit just below the hood at the wire harness running parallel to the cab with zip ties. Easy to get to, and does not get any engine vibration that way.

Hope this helps, Good Luck and Have fun!!!