Lift pump dead? Must drive
#1
Lift pump dead? Must drive
Well, just a second ago I went to start my truck and was about to head to town. I always show 11-12psi @ idle on my edge juice w/att monitor. This morning it was bouncing between 7-8psi @ idle. I take it this is at the Injection pump right??? Because that's where the pressure sender screwed in.
Now, lucky for me i am off today and i have the glacier 392 pump kit sitting at my shop for install tommorow. My shop is 10 miles away. Is it safe to drive the truck that 10 miles or should I have it towed to my shop???
Is the LP dead???
Now, lucky for me i am off today and i have the glacier 392 pump kit sitting at my shop for install tommorow. My shop is 10 miles away. Is it safe to drive the truck that 10 miles or should I have it towed to my shop???
Is the LP dead???
#3
i ran with zero pressure at wot for awhile before i figured i needed to replace my new lift pump so you should be fine, the VP will pump on its own for a good while until it burns up. Your LP is not dead but geting there, and you can run as low as 3 or 4 psi wot and still be ok (stats the shop manual). pump relocation is a first priority with these 2nd gens.
#5
Just incase, disconnect your fueling box, you'll be fine. Stock you can run that way for while. Dodge, will only replace the pump if its dead. Been there done that. NAPA makes a cheap lift pump clone of the carter 4561 (I might have the wrong part# but should be close), it just has different fittings (NPT), cummins uses metric. If you can move the new pump closer to the fuel tank. The pump will last longer. You could check your filter, it might be plugged up or dirty (bad fuel).
#7
Did you get the entire kit from Glacier, if so it's an easy install. I had mine installed in under 4 beers or was that 5 couldn't drive it that night but the wait was worth it.
On a totally different note I read in your sig you have duel 3" exhaust, do you have any egt info? I really like the look of duel exhaust and was thinking about that. Sorry for the hijack.
On a totally different note I read in your sig you have duel 3" exhaust, do you have any egt info? I really like the look of duel exhaust and was thinking about that. Sorry for the hijack.
Trending Topics
#8
Did you get the entire kit from Glacier, if so it's an easy install. I had mine installed in under 4 beers or was that 5 couldn't drive it that night but the wait was worth it.
On a totally different note I read in your sig you have duel 3" exhaust, do you have any egt info? I really like the look of duel exhaust and was thinking about that. Sorry for the hijack.
On a totally different note I read in your sig you have duel 3" exhaust, do you have any egt info? I really like the look of duel exhaust and was thinking about that. Sorry for the hijack.
Yes I bought the full glacier 392 kit plus strainer. I will wait on the big line kit though.
My egt on stock setting runs about 750-800@70 MPH. I really don't know alot about egt so just ask which scenerio and I will tell you my egt experiences.
P.S. 4-5 beers and i should be done huh??? About how long is that approx. (we all drink at different speeds LOL)
#9
My FP gauge only reads to 15psi but it constantly sits at what would be 17 psi and never below ~13 WOT with trailer in tow. It's quiet and fuel filter charges are now a breeze, one bump of the starter to fill the bowl, 10 seconds later 17 psi on the gauge, starts like I never changed the filter.
good luck.
Edit
Oh ya, I left the old fuel line intact just in case, plugged both ends with bolts and duct tape.
#10
I drink fast, so it was about 2 hours by myself. A great tip I got on here was to cut some of the new fuel hose, about 4", plug one end with a bolt. When you cut the hard fuel line by the tank, slip this on so you don't loose any fuel from the tank. Your still going to drip all that was in the lines but it's not that much. The instructions are very accurate, I boiled the lines (ends only) to slip them over the new fittings easier, no hose clamps on "yet" (might do that now). The bypass and relief valve just like the instructions said into the filler neck 18" past the pump IIRC. I had a PVC cutter that worked perfectly or you could use some pruning shears to cut a good strait line in the filler neck and fuel hose. The wiring was plug and play.
My FP gauge only reads to 15psi but it constantly sits at what would be 17 psi and never below ~13 WOT with trailer in tow. It's quiet and fuel filter charges are now a breeze, one bump of the starter to fill the bowl, 10 seconds later 17 psi on the gauge, starts like I never changed the filter.
good luck.
Edit
Oh ya, I left the old fuel line intact just in case, plugged both ends with bolts and duct tape.
My FP gauge only reads to 15psi but it constantly sits at what would be 17 psi and never below ~13 WOT with trailer in tow. It's quiet and fuel filter charges are now a breeze, one bump of the starter to fill the bowl, 10 seconds later 17 psi on the gauge, starts like I never changed the filter.
good luck.
Edit
Oh ya, I left the old fuel line intact just in case, plugged both ends with bolts and duct tape.
So is there any reason to cut the hard lines at all?????? i was told you had to.
#11
Yes, you need to cut the hard line from the tank to slip the new fuel line on. This is the only area that required hose clamps. I put about 10" of the hard line in the new hose and used 2 or 3 hose clamps along that 10".
Good luck.
Good luck.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jvenne86
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
17
03-20-2007 09:27 PM