let's see some outside the cab FP gage installs
#1
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let's see some outside the cab FP gage installs
I replaced my tired Carter LP with a new one, moving it to the frame with the Vulcan Relo Big Hose kit. I put a needle valve under the filter(on the output side of the filter) and closed it off for the moment. The truck was kind of uphill in front, and had to add more fuel to the tank to get the LP primed enough to push fuel up to the filter/VP. Runs fine.
I have an isspro gage (0-30) and 3' of armored fuel cable and hardware ready to install. Yes, I've searched here looking for pics of exo gage installs. None found. Spent some time trying to find a suitable location behind the hood and in front of the windshield wipers on the cowl. None found. Clearance while opening the hood is the issue.
How have you that are 'exo gage' mounting it?
regards, as always, jefe
I have an isspro gage (0-30) and 3' of armored fuel cable and hardware ready to install. Yes, I've searched here looking for pics of exo gage installs. None found. Spent some time trying to find a suitable location behind the hood and in front of the windshield wipers on the cowl. None found. Clearance while opening the hood is the issue.
How have you that are 'exo gage' mounting it?
regards, as always, jefe
#2
Jefe, is there any reason why you have decided to run outside the cab?
Just wondering, lots more in the cab mounting options out there and many, many guys running them with zero issues.
Just wondering, lots more in the cab mounting options out there and many, many guys running them with zero issues.
#4
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P.J.,
I was just responding to the 'no fuel in the cab' issue, and the fact that a read out would be very visible right in front of your nose while you're driving.
However, it wouldn't take much convincing for me to mount it IN the cab. There are lot's of pics of these on DTR.
If no one has a good solution to the exterior mount, I'll go cab mount. I'm just trying not to reinvent the wheel.
regards, as always, jefe
I was just responding to the 'no fuel in the cab' issue, and the fact that a read out would be very visible right in front of your nose while you're driving.
However, it wouldn't take much convincing for me to mount it IN the cab. There are lot's of pics of these on DTR.
If no one has a good solution to the exterior mount, I'll go cab mount. I'm just trying not to reinvent the wheel.
regards, as always, jefe
#5
Yeah, I would just scrap the outside idea. Too many cool options for interior mounting. Don't sweat the in the cab thing, it's pretty rare for someone to have a leak, and a portion of those are probably due to faulty installations.
There are "A" pillar, under dash, on dash overhead, "cubby", and probably one or two locations I'm missing. While your at it you might as well get an EGT gauge too.
I also have Isspro gauges, it was a toss up between them and Diprocol when I got mine. Both are reasonably priced.
Look here:
www.dieselmanor.com
There are "A" pillar, under dash, on dash overhead, "cubby", and probably one or two locations I'm missing. While your at it you might as well get an EGT gauge too.
I also have Isspro gauges, it was a toss up between them and Diprocol when I got mine. Both are reasonably priced.
Look here:
www.dieselmanor.com
#7
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I'm plumbed straight into the guage with fuel pressure no isolator. Just a needle vavle to take the pulses out. So far the guages have been in for 1 year and 25K miles and no problems. I just resently pulled the A-pillar to inspect the tubing and no leaks yet. (knockin' on wood). Check in my gallery for pics of the setup.
Thinking of that... I think its time for me to update my photo pile...
Thinking of that... I think its time for me to update my photo pile...
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#8
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the dieselmanor.com kit comes with an isolator to keep the fuel out of the cab. its fuel to the isolator and then antifreeze (although I know a guy that just left it as air and it works fine) after the isolator and up into the cab.
#9
Don't take this as advice (disclaimer), but diesel in the cab is much less dangerous than gasoline. Plus, if you put some sort of flow limiting mechanism in the line (needle valve or small orifice'ed fitting), the flow from any leak will be more of a drip than a gusher.
I have a mechanical gauge in-cab with real fuel flowing to it. If I ever smell diesel I'll just crimp off the line until I can fix it.
I have a mechanical gauge in-cab with real fuel flowing to it. If I ever smell diesel I'll just crimp off the line until I can fix it.
#11
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O.K., after thinking about this gage thing for a while and inspecting pics others' installs, I've decided to go with a three gage pod on the pillar. With a stock set up engine, I didn't see the need for a pyro, i don't need a trans temp gage (6 spds run cool enough), etc., but I'm going to now start a power build up, now that the factory warranty is up. The problem i see is that once you guys started to taste power in up grades, you got the fever. So then, where does it end? Heh, heh. So now I need gages, and will start pulling on that string.
If my VP44 is on the verge, it looks that I will start on the power upgrade trail, which looks like crossing the Rubicon: "once crossed, there's no going back". The II hot rod pump looks like the first ticket.
regards, as always, jefe
(lookin' for power in all the wrong places)
If my VP44 is on the verge, it looks that I will start on the power upgrade trail, which looks like crossing the Rubicon: "once crossed, there's no going back". The II hot rod pump looks like the first ticket.
regards, as always, jefe
(lookin' for power in all the wrong places)
#12
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I do not have a fuel pressure gauge in my truck, but on my built mustang I had in the 70's I had my fuel and oil pressure gauges mounted on the cowl vent using maring gauge mounts. http://www.govictorymarine.com/prodt...ageHistory=cat
Something about 30# of fuel pressure and 100# of oil inside the cabin didn't feel right.
Jim
Something about 30# of fuel pressure and 100# of oil inside the cabin didn't feel right.
Jim
#13
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Originally Posted by jefe4x4
With a stock set up engine, I didn't see the need for a pyro
I've also seen 1,300*F once empty... Hot summers day and running hard up to 3K on the tach and tip the pyro at 1,300*F and backed off.
Also they are great to be sure that the turbo is cool enough to shutdown (<=300*F)
So if you think you don't need one... Think again...
#14
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I'm with mopar man here, I can hit 1100 without tryin real hard on my stock HO. I hit 900 under light acceleration. guess I need some more airflow. And those numbers are with a straight pipe. I bet the muffler kept it a lot hotter than that.
#15
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O.K. Moparman,
I'm thinking again. A two hole pod with FP and Pyro. Now I'm thinking on the steering column would do the trick. For a dash mount, I can't seem to find the Rod's Pod anywhere. The diesel shop that carried them has no website at the moment.
After your little rant, I'm thinking I tow a car trailer with my Jeep on it, so the EG might be similar. Plus I live in So. Cal, not your coolest spot on the planet.
regards, as always, jefe
I'm thinking again. A two hole pod with FP and Pyro. Now I'm thinking on the steering column would do the trick. For a dash mount, I can't seem to find the Rod's Pod anywhere. The diesel shop that carried them has no website at the moment.
After your little rant, I'm thinking I tow a car trailer with my Jeep on it, so the EG might be similar. Plus I live in So. Cal, not your coolest spot on the planet.
regards, as always, jefe