7's are 240, 8's are the nos injectors.

if you want drivability i think i would get the 6's anyways.
and i would do the cam when i pulled the head. Because you'll have to pull the crap all off again to replace the cam. Itll be much easier to do it all at the same time. so save the $$$ and do it at the same time.

dont know much on the ported head. i may talk to the guy that im having do mine and see waht he thinks. it may or may not be worth it to me...

 

Only reason I want the head ported is for EGT's and possibly spool up. I ain't to worried about what little power I'd get from it but the extra air would be nice.

So 7's are 240? Hmmmm. How interesting.

 

yup, thats about all its good for.

and yup 240's vs. the 6's that are 220's...

 

IMO if you want to hit 700WRHP on #2 only there is no question about it. You have to port the head. You wont see huge HP gains, but the additional air will make a differance.

 

I ain't looking to make 700hp on #2.

 

What do you mean by that Rick??

Chris

 

Sorry for the confusion Chris

I meant, wasnt Brandon one of the first guys to hit like 640 horses on a Vp 44? if BB can replicate taht setup, he would be super close to his goal

No pun, or offense intended...

Aint Brandon runnin a 12V now?


Rick

 

oh, whats the max thats been pumped out of a vp on fuel only? ...dang, i shoulda got the 7's.....

 

Yes, he's running a 12v.

Brandon's old 99 was making 648/1312 at it's best...his setup was pretty simple. HX40/B2, Drag Comp, Mach 6's, PDR Cam, F1 Ported head, and a Standard SO VP. Brandon can correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that's right!

He was one of the first few in the 600+ on #2 only with a VP...I think there are still only a couple that were/are higher!

The coolest part about that truck, was after the boost hit, ZERO smoke....people used to laugh and say he couldn't have any power, because there wasn't any smoke!

Chris

 

RUMORS AND LIES!!! Diesel Dynamics cam. 1222tq.

Mach 7's are streetable and don't seem to haze as much as the old-style 6's at idle in winter.

EDIT: I'd be very jealous of a B1+B2 compound setup. I'm working on a Steroid B1 + custom garrett compound setup this winter.

bnraond.

 

Whoops, sorry! I thought you hit 1312tq.

When I hit those numbers you can be the one spreading rumors and lies

Chris

 

It did dyno once at 607/1312 with a TST box. The drag comp alone made the 648/1222.

brandon.

 

didn't idahoCTD hit 700.1 on #2 only.

 

I always though Nathan did 700 on fuel only. But that was a corrected number, no?


I've been out of the loop awhile, but I'll offer this: why limit yourself to the traditional "diesel" turbos??

In a compound setup, the stresses on the chargers is less (lower PR, less risk of barking, etc), hence you can go with a little lighter duty turbo and pickup some spool. Is this claim a point of contention? I mean, an hx40 that's fairly fragile as a single is all but bulletproof as a secondary-- right?

I'd also think that looking at ricer turbos is actually a good idea, at least you have more flexibility and you can find the EXACT turbo you want.

My earlier post on my dream Garret twins setup is in my name archive, and I *still* contend that this would be a good twins setup. The turbo maps don't lie.

The other thing I'd encourage you to consider is that you are rapidly approaching the point where it would be far more efficient to look at the air situation from the perspective of making it easier for the engine to breathe instead of just trying to brute force air into the engine. Relieve the restriction that the intake air must overcome, and you are spending that figurative 20 that gets you 80. Conversely, trying to cram more air into the engine through sheer boost numbers would represent the "80 that gets you 20".

First thing is cam. Yes, the heads have anemic flow, but they are adequate given the even more anemic cam specs. Remember that a head with a closed valve flows ZERO. At that point all the head porting in the world is meaningless. How high are the valves lifted off their seats? How much "curtain area" is there to the valves? If you take valve diameter times pi times the number of valves times the valve lift, you will get the total "window" area through which all the flow must pass.

Now keep in mind that the valve is at peak lift for just a tiny instant, so the actual effective curtain area will be quite a bit less than the number you calculated.

The bottom line is this: if the head's port cross-sectional area is at least 70% of the "curtain area" you calculated above, then you have big enough ports to that cylinder.

So the first step to big power is a cam. I would say Helix 3 is a starting point, with the requisite springs and other supporting case. The H2 is probably a better street cam, but if you are reaching for big HP numbers, then you need to be able to move your tq curve up higher in the RPM range, so that means an H3 to me. Probably not real compatible with the rpm limits of a VP truck, so maybe H2 would actually be better. Don could answer better.

You have to go pretty big on lift before the valve diameter and/or port area become serious limitations.


The other thing is paying attention to the quality of the boost you have. Shooting for nice cool temps in the intake (110 or so) will give you very real gains and will show up on the dyno when you're overfueled as all the big hp trucks are.



So that's the theme of this post: optimizing the boost you have before resorting to brute force of sheet pressure to cram air into the engine.

Justin

 

Well said! In support of this idea, going from stock valve springs to Don M's Pro Sportsman springs, I dynoed a gain of 5 HP and an interesting +167 ft-lbs of torque. (Corrected #'s for both runs).

The only other difference from previous Dyno numbers were two power robbing changes....
1- B20 biodiesel fuel vs #2 diesel.
2- 30% Meth Windshield Washer Fluid vs 50% Racing Methanol (I ran out).

How much these two changes hurt my totals is hard to say... but my guess would be 15-20 HP??

RJ